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2007 Toyota Prius w/198k and many warning lights simultaneously

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by tduff311, Jul 29, 2020.

  1. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    Any ideas?

    Last week, while driving on the highway, four warning lights lit up instantly, accompanied with a minor smell of smoke, and my A/C stopped blowing cold air. I brought it to Herald’s Family Automotive and they reset the codes (indicated a transmission computer issue) per “step 1” and advised me to return if they lit again.

    Today, a week later, they same thing happened again; however, this time I noticed that the transmission felt like it was slipping – engine revved up for no reason (no hill, not pressing gas, etc. It just felt like it was slipping. This slippage sound and feeling happened a couple more times on the way home.

    This time, however, as I was pulling into my neighborhood, the brake light lit up accompanied with a constant high pitched tone that continued until I parked the car and shut it off.

    Of note, the four warning lights pictured become only two lights, also pictured, if I turn the car off and back on. Typically, the A/C begins working again too if I do that; however, at some point, the slippage occurs and the other 2 lights come on, accompanied by a loss of A/C.


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    #1 tduff311, Jul 29, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    the high pitched whine is a brake warning iirc. hybrid battery may be on the way out. check the inverter fluid for movement.
    trouble codes would help. i wouldn't drive it, and stay away from heralds
     
  3. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    Doesn’t make sense why all those lights came on at the same time; the brake light just joined the cascade effect, I understood the brake light was associated with the whining deep as they occurred at the same time. The thing is, nothing was going on with the brakes, it’s just all started coming at the same time. It’s like a slow trickle in cascade of warning lights. Who knows what will pop up next time LOL

    The car is immaculate and very well-maintained. I have invested my fair share into it as recently as couple months ago so I certainly hope it’s not the hybrid battery. I asked Herold’s what the error code was and he couldn’t recall but indicated it was with respect to the transmission computer.

    He said that I would need to take it to the dealer for this particular issue. I explained all this to another local auto shop with a good reputation and they also said that this is a dealer only matter. I am concerned that this is going to get expensive fast working with a dealer… Hoping to get some insight from these forums before hand.


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  4. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    Nobody can really tell without being there.
    Thus the recommendation to visit a dealer for a "skilled" diagnosis.
    Wild guess: Transmission or a motor-generator.
    Each of which might be just as expensive as the HV battery.
     
  5. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    Bad news... ballpark estimate how much are we talking for either of those?


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  6. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    The description of the code was low battery voltage to the TCM. The auxiliary battery in the trunk checked out ok when they checked it.


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  7. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    I would normally say "Get it checked again." but a simple case of an aux. battery going bad will NOT cause all of the symptoms that you listed. Especially not smelling smoke.

    You need to find out for sure what the problem IS.......or prepare to trade it in......or both.
    My guess as to the cost: More than it's worth.
     
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  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Burned up inverter cooling water pump..............
    This very often provides an acrid burning smell and sometimes even smoke in the people compartment. It also has been known to load the electrical system enough to trigger low voltage faults.

    Do a search for inverter cooling water pump failures. Very common. About a 50% chance it will pop the AM2 fuse, but that also means about a 50% chance it comes close but doesn't.

    No cooling flow to inverter=inverter starts getting warm=turns off AC to try to minimize inverter load

    Inverter gets too warm= RTOD and shut off.

    Check it out..........you may get lucky..its a $100 DIY job
     
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  9. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    I hope it’s smaller like that. What would the cost of that be for repair? And is it something I could DIY?


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  10. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    There's videos all over youtube for it.
    About an hour job when I have a beer in one hand.
    I usually do it by removing the driver headlight, but others have done it by jacking up the inverter. I prefer the headlight, as it gives me more room for my gorilla hands...
     
  11. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    Great news! How would I make sure that is the problem?


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  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Open the hood of the car. open the driverdoor of the car. Press the power button 2 times (with your foot NOT on the brake). This puts the car into "ignition-on" mode, where the engine will not start, but the inverter cooling water pump should run. The ICWP is mounted directly behind the driver headlight. Is it humming/vibrating like it's running? Remove the cap from the inverter coolant reservoir. This is located directly next to the inverter, near the firewall. You should see strong ripples in the surface of the coolant if the pump is running.
     
  13. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    image-2020-07-29-22:21:18-267.jpg
    This is my driver side behind headlight… I’m not seeing any sort of reservoir or cap near the headlight


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  14. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    image-2020-07-29-22:22:24-329.jpg

    This is the passenger side


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  15. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    image-2020-07-29-22:26:10-641.jpg

    Sure enough I hear the humming sound behind the driver side headlight and I opened this fluid reservoir and I can see the fluid rippling.

    Does this mean no luck? It’s not as simple as the inverter pump?

    Or could it be intermittently malfunctioning? Reason I ask this is that everything is working out fine when I first drive it and it takes a good 15-20 minutes before I run into the warning lights and losing AC.


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    #15 tduff311, Jul 29, 2020
    Last edited: Jul 29, 2020
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    With something like this, every minute spent not reading the trouble codes is a minute that could be spent tracing the problem down if the trouble codes were known.

    There really isn't much point, ever, trying to read anything into how many dash lights happened to come on at once. The computers in the car are such gossips that any time one of them logs any problem, several others may log "hey, did you hear about ... ?" and boom, multiple lights come on. Reading the codes will clear up the picture (the "hey did you hear about ?" events have their own codes, so you can tell the difference between those and whatever the original events were).
     
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  17. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    Haha good analogy! I’ll get the codes and update the thread today.


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  18. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    IMG_0137.jpg
    Different code this time. However, I haven’t tripped the AC off by driving on the highway and such… Usually, once I feel the transmission slip, the AC goes off and so does the rest of the warning lights. So this could possibly be the first code in the cascade that follows. Thoughts!?


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  19. tduff311

    tduff311 Junior Member

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    If it helps, here is my VIN as well: JTDKB20U277565496


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  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    you probably need tech stream codes. dealer, good toyota hybrid shop, or diy from amazon and a compatible laptop