2008 A/c Blower Motor Not working

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by richard203, Oct 21, 2021.

  1. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    Hi my blower motor not working put in a new one and still dont work. I tried to switch out a new blower motor module and still dont work. any 1 have any idea?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    maybe the mfd?
     
  3. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    you talking about the screen display?
     
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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  5. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    i think the screen display is working since when i change to interior air the a/c open up and then when i change bak to outside air the a/c close back up.
     
  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    each button stands alone. check to see if you are getting voltage at the board
     
  7. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    So I think it’s my Amplifier Control Module I tried to test if there’s any voltage on the 3 pin wire that connect to the blower motor module and I’m not getting any voltage. Do I have to take out the dash to get to the ac amplifier?
     
  8. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    I’ll use a techstream to active the blower motor to see if it active if it active then it’s the screen if it don’t work then it might be the amplifier or the wires
     
  9. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    Good luck, you’re above my pay grade now
     
  10. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    You should have 12-14V on the large black wire and 0V (ground) at the white-black wire with the car in "ignition on" or "ready" modes. If you don't have power then you need to go back to the heater relay and (40A) heater fuse and test there.

    You'll want to have look at a wiring diagram in the service manual.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  11. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    how do i check heater fuse is blown (40a) ? and for the heater relay theres two? R3 and R4 is heater relay do i check both?
     
  12. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    My diagram only shows one "HTR" relay (in the driver's side junction box).
    The manual says you should pull heater fuse H (40Amps - in the engine room junction box) and check resistance - less than 1 ohm. Me, I prefer to check for power where it's supposed to be (at the battery power terminal for the heater relay).

    You can use a multimeter to measure voltage level, but that won't stress a high current circuit like the heater power feed (you could have a high resistance somewhere in the circuit but not "see" it because there is no load to make voltage drop). A 12V "test light" will draw 1/4 to 1/2 amp and can determine if some power is present-(just use it only on circuits that can handle that current). For something like this heater supply, I might add some jumper wires to a halogen "sealed beam" headlight and connect one wire to the battery circuit terminal and the other jumper to ground (metal on the car body). Depending on how you wire it, some headlight bulbs will draw 5-8 Amps- which is a nice load for this circuit. Screenshot_20211022-231427.jpeg

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  13. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    How do you pull out the Heater Fuse (40A)? when I look at the cover it shows the 40A is inside the circle box and just copper metal?

     
  14. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Inspect the 40 A fuse visually, and if it does not look intact, you will need to remove and replace the whole fusible link as a unit.
     
  15. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    The blower diagnostic write up in the manual doesn't mention that the 40amps fuse is part of the fusible link assembly. As mentioned you should first look at it closely. If it appears to be the same as the others next to it then it is probably ok .

    Now to be clear, when you have the car in ready mode and have the blower control switched "on", then you do NOT have 12-14V at the large black wire on the 3 wire connector to the blower control module?

    If that is true and the 40A fuse looks good then you need to test at the HTR relay (R2) at the driver's junction box - and/or the JB connectors to see why there is no power from the relay.

    First I would use a digital meter to determine which terminals are which at the relay and what voltages are present- or not. (Only after I KNOW which terminal is the Battery feed, then I might use a headlight bulb to test that circuit if needed. There are also low current circuits in the connector that trigger the relay coil that could be damaged by a high load like the bulb) Screenshot_20211024-112707.jpeg

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  16. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    where is that fuse box located? the website doesnt show where the location is but other fuse box it shows the location
     
  17. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Sorry, but I can't read your mind. I don't know which fuse box you are referring to when you say "the other" or "that".

    Near the very top of the Air Conditioning section in the service manual (pages AC-3 and AC-4) is the parts locator that shows where the driver's junction box and engine room junction box is.

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  18. lexidium

    lexidium Member

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    Where did you buy the parts?
    Was it from Ebay used?
     
  19. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    this fuse box
    [​IMG]
     
  20. richard203

    richard203 Member

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    no everything is brand new I brought it from amazon
     
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