2008 all lights on "ready" comes off and readt

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Michael Boggus, Sep 22, 2020.

  1. Michael Boggus

    Michael Boggus New Member

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    Installed new 12v and replaced fusable link and rear aus block.

    Car will turn on with all lights and occasionally "ready" comes on starts for 2 seconds and dies..



    Demo.
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i never saw ready, or green power button. check the 12v health, and make sure the brake lights come on when you step on the pedal.
     
  3. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    How did you blow the fusible link?
     
  4. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Any time you lose the 12 volt system (like removing a battery to replace it) it will require 2 presses of the power button to reset all the alarms. The dash display in your video is pretty much exactly what I would expect to see after the first press. The second press should clear all the warning lights.

    The flashing one dot on the fuel gauge is also indicative of a loss of 12v power. First thing I would do is verify all the connections at the 12v battery and the chassis connection for the (-) cable.

    What fusible link did you replace?

    Do you have a Prius (hybrid) compatible code reader? Although loss of 12v will clear memory, some codes will come back immediately following an attempted start cycle if it fails.

    It also looks like the MFD is showing only one bar for the HV battery. The "2 second" start you describe may be just the HV battery spinning the transaxle/engine trying to do a start cycle, but failing. The HV battery may be kaput, especially if it is original and has been sitting for a while. It's very likely to have some 'self-discharged' modules or potentially a P0AA6 HV isolation fault if it has any electrolyte leakage.
     
  5. Michael Boggus

    Michael Boggus New Member

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    Unfortunately I put the jumper cables on wrong.. researched and saw b link in front was blown..
     
  6. rjparker

    rjparker Senior Member

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    Hummm... thats a tough one. I would probably check that all the ecus communicate and go from there. Check each fuse in the engine compartment and instrument fuse box. Check them one at a time. If you pull them out, replace each before you move to the next.

    Or - the scrap value of the cat alone might bail out this deal.
     
    #6 rjparker, Sep 23, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2020
  7. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Another very recent long saga started the same way. Ended up getting sorted without too much expense. Different incidents might not have identical effects, but simple, patient, systematic checking and good observation tracked them down. Might be worthwhile to review that one to see how that looks.

    Part of the trick was not to be too spooked by other posters saying it was certain something expensive was fried and it wasn't worth fixing. Well, sure, that could happen ... that's what doing the simple patient checking and observation will tell you. In that case, it was nothing of the sort.
     
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  8. Michael Boggus

    Michael Boggus New Member

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    checked and removed the 3 white plugs in back of 12v for 1 minute

     
    #8 Michael Boggus, Sep 23, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 23, 2020
  9. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    After helping to work through a handful of reverse polarity jumps, I have yet to see a RPJ not pop the main fusible link, along with a couple of the smaller fuses in the underhood fuse box
     
  10. Michael Boggus

    Michael Boggus New Member

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    or
    ok after taking your guys advise this is what i got

     
    #10 Michael Boggus, Sep 23, 2020
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 23, 2020
  11. Michael Boggus

    Michael Boggus New Member

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    I blew it by jumping the car with opposite red/black links
     
  12. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    I have seen similar symptoms on a 2008 that had a very significant HV isolation fault in at the HV battery due to electrolyte leakage. That battery was reading about 40 volts between the positive HV terminal and the case of the battery.

    That being said, until you actually get codes read (accurately) we can only provide guesses based on previous experience. Although you have a video, it's still essentially calling someone on the phone and saying "my car won't start, what's wrong with it?".

    Don't forget, my experience has been that a reverse jump also blows a couple fuses in the underhood jump point, not just the fusible link. Along with that, are you confident you replaced the fusible link correctly?
     
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  13. Michael Boggus

    Michael Boggus New Member

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    Understood.. but as far as replaced it yes. I didn't a friend did it and I can assure that before I replaced it the car would only show turning lights and engine check.
    After replacing I get all these
     
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