2008 Prius 108k miles code P3030

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Sharnold, Sep 17, 2019.

  1. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Got the car home yesterday noticed the battery cooling fan runs constantly I'm seeing a fun project at the garage to make this into a work car. All dtc codes in total
    C1241
    C1310
    P3030
    P3000
    Let's here some ideas guys
    I'm thinking battery ecu, bus bar cleaning, new wiring harness, and replacing a few cells and a good old fashioned fan cleaning and resetting traction/brake control but I'm guessing the battery ecu is responsible for those codes

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    #21 Sharnold, Sep 21, 2019
    Last edited: Sep 21, 2019
  2. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    P3030 is the code, the other three are just echo codes from other ECUs saying they heard from the HV battery ECU that there was a problem.

    You're on the right track.

    DTC P3030 Diagnostic Troubleshooting Tree.
     
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  3. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Yeah it's not my first rodeo but it is with that code the two lower block voltages may be an issue to address while it's out of the car also. Ty for the file also

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  4. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    I'd definitely clear the P3030, then re-evaluate. But, if you can independently confirm any modules with which you're not happy, then yes, it would be good to address them while you have the battery out. I'm just highlighting that you cannot rely on Techstream to judge whether any modules might need replacing until the P3030 is cleared.
     
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  5. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Ty sir the good news is I have enough parts at my garage to build a few batteries

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  6. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    I have two cells that are 6.70 and 6.75 so they need replacement. The rest are 8.0-8.06 but I think the harness and bus bars are the primary issue. 20190923_165020.jpeg 20190923_165029.jpeg 20190923_165037.jpeg 20190923_165040.jpeg

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  7. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    That looks fairly normal... Where I've found the problem is corrosion traveling up the voltage sensor wires into the ECU plug, so I always check that plug in the ECU for corrosion... But as for the rest of it, a rock tumbler is most efficient for cleaning the bus bars... Solid nickel bus bars are $70... Wire frame to start with brand new OEM bus bars and Voltage sensors on one side of the pack is only $50 if you find the right dealership. And If you find a price better than $0.23 for new nuts with smooth surface we'd love to know...
     
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  8. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    I'll start with changing out the cells and cleaning the nuts and bus bars and checking the ecu plug it's on my project work car..... as far as the fan its dirty and the fan vent wasnt even connected meaning non sufficient air flow to cool the battery and it's been in the upper 90s here

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  9. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    The battery vent system is annoying in terms of how poorly designed and once you swap packs 1/2 dozen times all that wear and tear means it doesn't got together very well... I've been experimenting with black athletic tape around all the seams and potential leak areas to maximize air flow efficiency, but I think I'm gonna have to try gaffer's tape instead because adhesive isn't strong enough over time with athletic tape. And yes I tried duct tape, but that stuff is a big mess in the long run and doesn't look very professional.
     
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  10. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Not gonna lie sir I had to use gorilla tape on a wrecked car that was rear ended after it was repaired

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  11. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    So I went hunting and found two batteries at a local junkyard from lower mile cars. One had 9 bad cells but a great casing better wiring and cleaner terminals. The other is a good battery minus 2 cells and very dusty and dirty I'm thinking of taking all the cells off the dirty battery and building it on the nicer, cleaner casing and platform and replacing the two bad cells while keeping them all in the original order minus the two bad cells. Then just pull my battery for parts later 20190925_180120.jpeg

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  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    Nice find.
     
  13. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Heres also my busbar cleaning hack
    Mix 4 tablespoons salt
    1 cup of white vinegar
    1/4 cup CLR cleaner
    After an hour of only stirring vigorously once and soaking you only have to wipe them off 20190926_081547.jpeg

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  14. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Nothing like taking 2 batteries and making one great one properly done 1569536054682.jpeg

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  15. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    I have the exact same cordless ratchet... I love that tool. I bought thinking I'd use it solely for the purposes of unbolting battery packs without removing the seat backs, but boy was I wrong... I use that thing for everything!
     
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  16. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Brother I loved it so much I bought the 3/8" and 1/2" impacts also I love them all especially since the ratchet came with a charger and an extra battery. That ratchet has been abused for over a year and still going strong. And your right I never pull the back seats on any Prius anymore especially on the passenger side bracket that has the forward facing bolt lol

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  17. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Put the HV battery in reset the dtc codes cranked the car instant triangle pulled new dtc codes ended up with
    P0A81 - HV battery coolant fan low voltage
    C2318 - Transmission low voltage
    Pulled the numbers with techstream reset dtc codes cranked the car now no codes and drove it up the road still no codes any ideas guys.... or was it a ecu hick up
    20190928_191002.jpeg 20190928_191027.jpeg 20190928_191924.jpeg

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  18. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    So the fan is plugged in:whistle:?

    Any damage to the wiring to the fan?
     
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  19. Sharnold

    Sharnold Member

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    Lol not the same mistake as the other car last night btw it runs great now..... the fan is running perfectly even did a active test it's like it magically corrected itself. So I checked the 12 volt with a snapon battery tester it shows 12.5 volts but as soon as I hit the load switch drops to 10.9 I just got this battery 3 days ago and yes it's a commercial battery I'm guessing its sat on the shelf too long and will be getting returned these auxiliary batteries on these cars are the devil in disguise sometimes

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  20. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    The error codes for low voltage of cooling fan is something I've dealt with... A malfunctioning Prolong fan control box/harness can cause that... Also above and to the rear of the cooling fan, there's four wires connected with a plug that has the capacity to hold many more wires. The connection in that plug have corroded to point of failing. The wires run the relays that run the fan. It's probably related to the common roof seem leak that puts puddles in the 12v battery storage compartment. Here's a pick of the one I removed and spliced together with duct tape on the side of the road... BatteryCoolingFanCorrosion.jpg
     
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