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2008 Prius Combination Meter finicky after capacitor replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Reedus, May 20, 2023.

  1. Reedus

    Reedus New Member

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    Hello there, I love this forum! Thank you to everyone who has ever contributed you've saved me many many times on my 302,000mi 2008 Prius

    Around a year ago, my combination meter stopped working. Unplugging and replugging the 12v battery did nothing to resolve the issue. So I figured the issue was the capacitor.

    I replaced the stock capacitor with a 220uF 16V Radial Lead Aluminum Electrolytic Capacitor, temporarily fixing the issue for about a month. However, it stopped working again. Interestingly, hitting the dash above the cluster sometimes temporarily resolves the problem until I turn off the car. I have disassembled and reassembled twice to ensure all connectors are correctly connected. Unfortunately, hitting it no longer fixes the issue. The check engine light works properly still (dealing with some misfiring but that's unrelated) but the speedometer does not.

    I think buying a new Combination Meter might be the best solution, but I'm concerned there may be a faulty wire or loose connection that I'm overlooking. Any ideas to try out while I've still got the dash disassembled?
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    I've been through three different displays from super low mileage cars to extreme high mileage cars All of them do the exact same thing no hitting no resetting nothing they'll work when I plug them in and then at some point one day I'll get in the car and the display won't light up I will go on about my business and one or two stops I turn the car back on boom the display is on stays on for months then one day repeat all of these displays I'm to believe have a bad capacitor failing capacitor something wrong with the board All of them look almost identical no see no burning on the boards and nothing everything looks tight soldered well obviously you can't look at a capacitor and tell if it's bad unless it's seen a huge load and just burn up but all of my displays look the same as far as the board the solder joints everything I've been told by other people that mess with these things that if mine keeps coming back on they seem to think it's something further up the line whatever it might be I don't see any bad connections nothing.
     
  3. Reedus

    Reedus New Member

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    Oh man, so are you just rocking it with an unreliable display? You're so brave
     
  4. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No the car works fine getting 45 miles per gallon two down from the original mileage when new everything seems to work great so I fill it up whether to display is working or not I know the gas is running out of the tank so it's full and now I go 435 mi like clockwork My phone tells me 10 mi before the 4:35 is up and then I head over to Sheetz and get my blue fuel and I will put in 9.7 some odd gallons it will be backing up at the fuel neck I'll make sure it's full and the bladder stretched. Then I go 4:35 again I don't need to see the speed the gas gauge there's no tachometer in these cars so there's really nothing to see My check engine light is on It's been on for 5 years with the PO420 I'm in a non-emissions state so I can get inspected with the check engine light on nothing brave about it I just have lots of service calls to roll to I don't have time to worry about dashboard capacitors and my dashboard keeps coming back on like after two or three stops it'll come back on and be on the rest of the month or two then one morning I'll start the car be no dash Go up the street to the store come back out more than likely the dash comes on I just have changed a thing two or three times and I'm not ready to do it again every car I take one of these out of it starts doing this like right after I put it in so I can help but wonder that something further down the line is causing this redundant type of seeming problem I don't know just seems weird
     
  5. Reedus

    Reedus New Member

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    I appreciate you sharing your experiences. I'll get an app to track my miles now and maybe look into replacing the full cluster whenever I plan to sell it.
     
  6. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Apparently people have had real good luck buying the Texas hybrid remanufactured heads up display or speedometer whatever we like to call it. I just haven't bought it yet because I have to take my whole dash apart and most of the time it works so it's back burnered when it doesn't come on it comes back on very quickly generally speaking out the last time I can remember it was offer 16 hours Jesus I could care less and especially night driving it's wonderful I don't have any light shining on my windshield or my face so not a real big issue by the time I order the part from Texas hybrid for the $174 or whatever it is today then I have to take rip the whole dashboard off the top of the car again to swap it all out and then when I do that with one of the Texas hybrid units and it starts the same shit again I'm going to be very vocal about it not because Texas hybrids did anything. But all the hub up that started the business I personally I really don't believe or have trouble believing that it's all five of these displays that I've put on this car like I say from little old ladies cars with 93,000 mi looking brand new with a dented bumper at LKQ to $300,000 mi cars that look like pure hell mad Max mobiles etc all of them have done the exact same thing in my '09 Prius every one of them they don't even act differently I can almost tell when I push the button that the display is not going to light It's that funky I can almost call it and I can almost tell you exactly when it's going to turn back on just because and it doesn't add up but hey what do I know about capacitors and surface mounted electronic devices as little as possible.
     
  7. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Recheck the capacitor work area. The successful application of percussive maintenance sometimes indicates a cold solder joint. Check the joints you worked on or others that got handled along the way, reflow the connections if needed and try again.

    It's worth doing that before ordering another.