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2008 Prius electrical modifications

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Accessories & Modifications' started by Crixus, May 6, 2017.

  1. Crixus

    Crixus Junior Member

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    I have a few questions about upgrading the audio system. I plan on upgrading the car door speakers from stock to Jl audio and amplify them with a 400w Jl audio amp. Jvc touch screen head unit and a dual 12inch ported system jl audio subwoofers (W3's) totaling max rms around 800 to 1kw. Overall car upgrades 1400 watts additional draw. Would I need a larger 12v battery? How would this effect the hybrid system? Thanks!

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  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    1400 watts isn't far from the maximum output of the car's DC/DC converter, total—and some of that still has to run the car.

    You'll likely get away with it as long as those are peak power ratings of your added equipment, and it won't be playing anywhere near peak output as a constant thing.

    You might want to pick up an extra LED and resistor and wire them to the IDH signal from the DC/DC converter; that's the signal it asserts to say "I can't keep up this output; shed load!" (In the stock setup, it is only used to shed the ~ 700 watt electric heaters in cold weather.)

    -Chap
     
  3. 69shovlhed

    69shovlhed Surly tree hugger

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    a friend had 1 jl audio 12" in a properly tuned box in his suburban. he might have had a 400w amp. anyway, that single 12 made way more bass than you could ever need in a car. you might want to go a little smaller than a 2 12 sub, cause the prius is kinda flimsy and will vibrate so much it will sound bad. someone did it a few years back, and the hatch rattled really loud. it sounded terrible.
     
  4. Crixus

    Crixus Junior Member

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    1400 watts is peak. And I doubt I will be playing anywhere near peak. Still trying to get feelers for the electrical system as I previously went from an 04' jeep grand Cherokee with a 1000w single 15in. Rattling was definitely heard. The dual 12inch max draw is 600rms even though running on a 1000w amp for clarity, what is the peak load of the DC converter. I appreciate any help. Thank you for your time.

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  5. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    I have similar plans once I find a place to put my 1kW amp. Now I am running the fronts (stock) and a sub from a 4 channel amp (at about 300Wrms).

    The stock battery is quite small. It only has to run the computers on start up. Once that is taken care of, the DC-DC inverter takes over.
    When I had to replace my stock 33Ah (or something) battery, I replaced it with a 55Ah deep cycle (not planning on deep cycling, but for the reasonably light use it gets in the Prius, it may last a decade AND be big enough to let the car sit for a month*...). Now I have some more faith it will be able to keep up with my intended upgrades.

    As with a normal alternator, all energy must ultimately come from petrol. And I don't know how the DC-DC converter handles going beyond the maximum current it is designed for. But imho a bigger battery will help out with peaks better than a small one. So as long as you keep using your common sense, I think you'll be fine.



    * there are stories about people finding their stock battery dead after a month on the airport parkinglot. Mine was fine after 9 weeks of holiday (I did charge it before driving again, but it was still at over 12.5V iirc)
     
    #5 R-P, May 14, 2017
    Last edited: May 14, 2017
  6. Crixus

    Crixus Junior Member

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    I decided to wire my 1000w amp to 4ohms which stabilizes at 500w output. Overall total system draw with custom fabiricated 6x9s pulling 100w a piece brings total power draw to 900watts. That should be more suitable including a yellow top deep cycle battery. Thank you for your input. I'd imagine the inverter would heat up beyond safe limits.

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