2008 Prius stopped at intersection and was done....

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by Darryl Matson, Sep 19, 2021.

  1. Darryl Matson

    Darryl Matson New Member

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    we have 4 Prius, and this is the first one we have had any trouble with! It is a 2008 we purchased 2 months ago. The other morning it was driven 15 miles on highway, and at a signal intersection it would not move. The battery has been replaced, and in doing so found that the positive cable was literally just sitting on the post, not tight, not snug, just sitting there. SO, I purchased an Innova code reader and downloaded the app knowing it most likely would not have the ability to read a lot of the stuff pertaining to a hybrid vehicle. I may have been wrong! The following are the codes read by the reader, and at this point the car will shift to neutral, but not into gear. It will shift back to park. The traction battery shows empty, the fuel gauge reads empty but it has at least a 1/2 tank. The red death triangle displays at times, and some times the traction battery shows 4 bars, or over 1/2 charged. After I put the new battery in the car shifted into drive, I moved forward about 10 feet, put it in reverse, moved back 10 feet. It hasn't moved since. Charged new battery to get full voltage again, no change. The engine will sometimes come on when turning it on, but only for about 20 seconds. It sounds like it starts to pick up rpm from an idle, then shuts off. HELP!!! IMG_5508.PNG IMG_5508.PNG IMG_5509.PNG IMG_5510.PNG
     

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  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    probably need techstream, or at least dr prius or hybrid asst.
     
  3. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Are you sure the engine is actually running and not attempting to start? It can be hard to tell.
     
  4. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Could wait for Techstream, but that app has given a pretty good list of codes from several different ECUs, so it's not like one of the readers people sometimes use that show the engine or brake codes and nothing else.

    The P0A0F indicates the engine didn't start. The P3190 is a more understated way of saying it, but there appears to be an engine issue here.

    The trick is to find the engine issue and get it to successfully start, before using up all the charge in the traction battery trying to start it.
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    When the 12v battery is replaced, or if 12v power is lost, ALL the ecus in the car go back to default values.

    This means the HV battery, regardless of actual SOC, will temporarily show about 60% until it recalibrates itself.

    It also means that any LEARNED VALUE, like throttle position, returns to it's default, so any learning it did due to wear and tear, crud buildup, etc, is lost.

    I have seen engines fail to start because the MAF is dirty, the throttle body is dirty, etc. Clean the MAF sensor and temperature bulb, clean the throttle body so these components are as close to original as possible. This will often cure the 'fail to start' problem.

    These small procedures are in plenty of threads on the forum

    When I clean a throttle body, I remove the air filter housing, remove the MAF sensor, use a screw driver to hold the throttle plate open and scrub every inner surface with a stiff toothbrush soaked in TB cleaner. Then spray it and do it again.

    If you want to help the car start, after doing the cleaning, the first time you try to start it, shoot a bit of starter fluid in the TB.
     
    #5 TMR-JWAP, Sep 20, 2021
    Last edited: Sep 20, 2021
    jerrymildred, Another and SFO like this.
  6. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Active Member

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    +1 to TWR-JMAP.

    It sounds as if the Internal Combustion Engine (ICE) on your car doesn't run. Could be "goop" buildup in the throttle body (combined with some buildup on the 2 sensing "wires" inside the MAF sensor, could be that you actually are out of gas, could be lots of things.
    You need to DO something to affect operation (such as cleaning the MAF and TB, and/or adding gas to the tank), or perform some tests (such as checking fuel pressure) before attempting to start the car (ie, going to "ready" mode).
    The car uses power from the HV battery when it tries to start the ICE- you may have run it down too much already, and few people have the means to charge it.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  7. Another

    Another Member

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    Not much history on the car here other than no problems for a couple of months. Hard to diagnose.
     
  8. nancytheprius

    nancytheprius Junior Member

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    the exact same thing you are describing happened to my 06. Stopped driving on the road. would only go in neutral or park, not drive. every time i turned it off and back on the engine would try to start but then wouldn’t. Cause was an oil change at an express place two days prior putting way too much oil in. I had towed it to toyota service department and so i don’t know what codes popped up. have you had an oil change done recently?Id suggest Checking your oil dipstick! I now do all my changes myself to avoid it
     
  9. Another

    Another Member

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    Or maybe the oil all drained out here.
     
  10. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    12.02 volts indicated for the 12 volt is pretty lackluster.
     
  11. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    By the same token, it's plenty for practical purposes, especially considering it's reported by a connected scan tool, meaning the ignition is on.

    After solving the engine no-start issue, the OP will have time to worry about luster.
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  12. Darryl Matson

    Darryl Matson New Member

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    I appreciate all your replies. I ordered the techstream software and JIT cable (Amazon) and got the software up and running. It showed two failed components. The steering ecu located just behind and above the steering column in the dash, and the shift lever assembly. The engine definitely comes on. The oil level is correct. The fluid for the inverter was a little low, brought up to proper level. Replaced battery, have yellow top version. I have 12.6 volts on battery. The HV battery shows all cells at 11.46. I received the shift lever assembly and the steering ECU and replaced them. Nothing changed. The shifter module shows failed, though it did go into drive once but engine shut off and it would not move. Ultimately, I don't think changing these two modules helped anything.
     
  13. Darryl Matson

    Darryl Matson New Member

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    As I said. I put the keyfob in, depress the brake, push the power button, the computers come up and the engine (ICE) starts and runs for about 20 seconds, then sounds as if rpm is building, and abruptly shuts off. Still does it, every time.
     
  14. Darryl Matson

    Darryl Matson New Member

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  15. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Active Member

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    The High Voltage hybrid system is (electrically) separated from the rest of the car (which uses 12V). However, all of the computers in the car (the "brains") use the hybrid system (the HV battery, inverter, and motor generators, - aka the brawn) to actually do things like spin the Internal Combustion Engine, or to move the car.

    The hybrid control ecu will command the inverter and motor to spin the ICE at 1000 rpm for up to around 10 seconds when it attempts to start the ICE. It sounds as if the engine is running then stalls- but it probably wasn't ever running.

    Again, if the throttle body bore around the blade has sludge built up (and cutting off airflow at "idle"), or the fuel pump doesn't work, or any of a number of things has gone wrong (that the engine ECM can't detect)- then the ICE won't run and you end up trying to start several times and discharging the HV battery.

    You may need to either look into getting a grid charger for the HV battery, or tow the car to a hybrid shop. Some may have the ability to charge your HV battery- others (including most dealers) will likely only replace the HV battery.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #15 mr_guy_mann, Oct 10, 2021
    Last edited: Oct 10, 2021
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