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2008 Prius won’t start

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Technical Discussion' started by Rise Moon, Nov 9, 2020.

  1. Rise Moon

    Rise Moon New Member

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    I have read so many threads already and have tried to resolve the problem based on other owners experiences. Here is the issue.
    I think I left a light on (dome inside light) for 3 days. Went to start car and nothing. Used a portable charger to jump, got power to the dash, windows ect. But then drained the portable charger battery and went black. Tried jumping with another car, both front and back. Nothing.
    Replaced 12v battery assuming that’s the issue. No power. Only has power (accessory mode when I put the key fob in the slot.) Replaced key fob battery as suggested. Checked fuses under the hood, replaced the only blown one. (Did not check inside driver fuse box as I’m pregnant and could not get under there) Fuse did not fix anything.
    My brother brought over his obd II scanner and it wouldn’t even read anything as if there was not enough power to register.
    I am at a loss!
    I have had issues with the speedometer console lighting up for about a year and a half now and it doesn’t even turn on regularly. (Just lived with the issue). It’s a 2008 with over 200,000 miles.

    please if you have any thoughts or other suggestions it would help.
     
  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    Welcome to PriusChat!!

    First check the voltage at the jump point under the hood, and again at the 12v battery.
    It might finally be time for a new Speedometer / Combination meter, you can attempt the DIY fix and replace some capacitors, or you can buy one with a lifetime warranty at : Prius Speedometer Replacement

    If you need a hybrid mechanic, a 2nd opinion, or someone to recommend a nearby mechanic in AZ, then contact Steve Keith at : PHOENIX HYBRID BATTERIES - 602-730-4967 - please tell him that everyone at PriusChat misses him as well :whistle:
     
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  3. Aegean

    Aegean Active Member

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    Assuming that the only change since the car was last working is the interior light left on, the problem might be the new AGM battery. Can you measure the voltage at the battery? Is it a healthy 12.3v -12.6v? Sometimes new batteries are sitting on the store for 2-3 months and voltage drops. If not charge the new battery before you troubleshoot further.
     
  4. strawbrad

    strawbrad http://minnesotahybridbatteries.com

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    +1
     
  5. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Sounds like a potential reverse polarity jump that popped the main fusible link in the underhood engine compartment. (especially if one fuse was also found to be open already)

    On the left side of the fuse box, there is a white plastic assembly with a clear cover. at the top of the assembly is the underhood jump point. The area circled in the below photo is the fusible link section that usually blows when jumpers are connected backwards. Look through the clear plastic and see if that little thin metal strip is melted. If it is, then that's your problem. Also, if it is melted, you may want to check the regular fuses again. Many times, 2 or 3 fuses pop, not just one.

    Fusible Link.JPG
     
  6. Rise Moon

    Rise Moon New Member

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    Does that look melted, I’m not sure what it’s suppose to look like...and if it is the problem is this an easy fix?
     

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  7. Rise Moon

    Rise Moon New Member

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    Trying to get a good pic
     

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  8. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Yes, it looks melted to me. Looks like there's a little blob of melted copper and a gap. easy? Yes. About a 20 minute job for me, but I've done a dozen or so. What is your level of DIY experience? That white plastic assembly has to be taken loose, pulled upward to access 4 bolts that fasten conductors to it, and pop two plugs off the bottom. Then install the replacement, without dropping any of the small bolts down into the area under the fuse box. It can be a challenge for the inexperienced.

    If you want to tackle it, I would suggest finding a local salvage yard that has a gen 2. Use that car to learn how to remove it. That way mistakes won't matter, plus you can get a replacement assembly for 5 bucks instead of 40 or 50 bucks.
     
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  9. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Now, here's a photo of what it will look like if the clear plastic is removed.

    Popped.JPG
     
  10. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    And now, with much trepidation about the feedback I'm going to receive, here is an emergency alternative that can be used to get the car to a repair shop. I'm in no way advocating this as anything other than an emergency repair to either get oneself out of a bad situation or to get the car to a repair shop for proper repair. I feel this isn't a dangerous temporary situation, as the reason for blowing the fusible link is known to be a reverse jump, not some unknown fault lying in wait. And it only costs 8 cents, which can be refunded after the proper repair. Maybe working a couple decades in industrial maintenance has led me to become a bit more understanding of the need for sometimes making crisis repairs that are not completely legit, but will get you where you need to be to make the right repair. If this was a nuke plant, hell no. A prius? why not...
     

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  11. Rise Moon

    Rise Moon New Member

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    Got the part in... tried researching YouTube videos on how to fix it. Found a forum post with pics. Pretty vague for a newbie who has no experience with cars LOL but called my dad over and with his muscle and my tiny hands we were able to complete this replacement in about an hour... much harder and tedious than any video I watched.... but we did it!!! Car works just the dome lights aren’t working but I’m just soooo happy it works great!!! Thanks everyone for your advice and help!
     
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  12. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    The dome light and some other stuff that also is on that same circuit are protected by the DOME fuse in the front fuse box.

    Check that it is not blown. When checking fuses, don't just look at them to decide if they're good or not. Use a DMM (digital (or can be analog) multimeter) on the resistance (Ω) setting; use this to check for continuity.

    The locations of the fuses are detailed on the underside of the fuse box lid.
     
  13. TMR-JWAP

    TMR-JWAP Senior Member

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    Good job!! It can be a pain. I typically remove the 12v supply cable and covers, then use a small flathead screwdriver to pull hold each locking tab back while inserting the tip of a small ziptie into the gap to prevent the locking tab from engaging again. Then its a matter of wiggling it upward, disconnecting the fuse holder at the bottom, wiggling it up some more and then getting the cable fasteners. It can definitely be a pain in the neck.
     
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  14. Lego_Gnome

    Lego_Gnome New Member

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    this gave me a awesome laugh for a lot longer than It should have ;) ,, Saddly I think when i go look at mine tomorrow in daylight this maybe a issue looking at..