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2008 Prius won't start intermittently

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by mjm2008, May 29, 2010.

  1. mjm2008

    mjm2008 Junior Member

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    Basically, every once in a while the car refuses to go into "Ready" mode - it acts like you are trying to start it with your foot off the brake. Appears to be getting worse over time. Happens at least once a week. Yesterday I probably tried to start it 30 times before it finally took. Once it gets going it is fine, and often it will start right back up several times before it starts acting up again. No rhyme or reason to it.

    Also, a lot of times when my "Ready" light does come on, it goes on-off-on and I hear a double click from a relay....is that normal??

    The dealer just installed a new accessory battery for $187, which had zero impact on the problem.

    Any ideas? Car has about 50k miles on it.
     
  2. Rokeby

    Rokeby Member

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    mjm2008,

    My take on this:

    Check the tightness of the connection of the wire "grounding strap"
    between the 12V battery and the chassis. It's back under the
    passenger side tail light. You have to lift out the hatch area floor piece
    and the tray underneath. You also have to remove the small, roughly
    triangular floor piece on the passenger side.

    The wire is the black one with the white tape holding it in an arc on
    the right top in this picture:
    [​IMG]

    Also check to tightness/snugness of the connections at the +/- battery
    lugs.

    As to the new 12V battery; I'm wondering if the ground has been/is
    intermittent, could there be a chance that it has not been recharging
    fully?
    (And this could have been the basis of the need for the new battery?)

    With luck one of the e-smart members will post up on this.
     
  3. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    I think the brake light switch needs to be adjusted or replaced.
     
  4. dogfriend

    dogfriend Human - Animal Hybrid

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    I was going to make the same suggestion Patrick did. I also think that checking the ground cable at the 12v battery is a good suggestion.
     
  5. Fred_H

    Fred_H Misoversimplifier

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    Hi Patrick, I thought the same, but then I went out and turned my 2007 Prius on and off a few times, and discovered that the ready icon first does one very quick blink before lighting steadily. So that may be normal, but we just never noticed before, because it does it in the blink of an eye, so to speak.

    Or could there be something wrong with my car that I haven't noticed?
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Hi Fred,

    You are right, I noticed the one blink of the READY icon on my 2007 this afternoon. I agree that this blink is normal and I corrected my earlier post.

    Regarding the OP's hearing relays clicking, perhaps s/he is hearing the three system main relays. When the car is started up, two of the relays energize, to connect the negative and positive battery terminals to the traction battery cable that runs up to the inverter.

    A resistor is connected in series, in the positive traction battery line. The resistor reduces current flow as the inverter capacitors charge up. A brief moment later, the third system main relay will energize to bypass the resistor and allow unimpeded current flow to/from the traction battery.
     
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  7. Fred_H

    Fred_H Misoversimplifier

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    Thank you for confirming that for us!
    Funny that we never noticed during years of driving.


    IIRC those relays are located inside the HV battery casing. So those clicks would be the more muffled sounding ones coming from the back of the car. They also sound a little different when powering down.


    Another little tip for the OP: If you drape a towel or something over the middle of the rear spoiler so that you can see it through the little lower rear window, then you can easily see if the brake switch is working. If you can manage to observe the brake light every single time you power up, then the next time you have a start failure, you will know if it was because of the brake switch or not.
     
  8. BAllanJ

    BAllanJ Active Member

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    I think I recall someone saying (Patrick?) that the brake switch has two poles, so it is (just) possible that the pole switching on the brake light works while the one needed for the starting interlock isn't working. On the other hand, if the brake lights don't come on, that's likely the problem.
     
  9. mjm2008

    mjm2008 Junior Member

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    That is a great idea on the brake lights - I wasn't sure if the same switch that controlled the lights was also involved in the "Ready" state - thought perhaps it was a separate switch. All that being said, seems like the "on-off-on" of the Ready light (much slower than a blink of an eye) along w/ the accompanying relay clicks (which sound like they are coming from the back of the car / HV battery case) does not seem like it is normal at all....more to come....thanks to all...maybe we can get to the bottom of this. Obviously the dealer is quite content to take "pot shots" at the problem.
     
  10. mjm2008

    mjm2008 Junior Member

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    That is a great idea on the brake lights - I wasn't sure if the same switch that controlled the lights was also involved in the "Ready" state - thought perhaps it was a separate switch. All that being said, seems like the "on-off-on" of the Ready light (much slower than a blink of an eye) along w/ the accompanying relay clicks (which sound like they are coming from the back of the car / HV battery case) does not seem like it is normal at all....

    Checked, and the brake lights DO NOT come on when it fails to go into "Ready" mode. Where is the switch in question?? I believe I can replace it myself if I can determine where the part is located. Also, is there a way to bypass this switch as an additonal tool to diagnose the problem?? thx, mike
     
  11. qbee42

    qbee42 My other car is a boat

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    Gen II Prius with Cruise Control have two poles on the switch. One runs the brake lights and starting interlock, the other disengages the CC.

    Tom
     
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The switch is located near the brake pedal lever pivot point. The clearance between the switch and the lever should be 0.5 - 2.4 mm. The lock nut tightening torque is 19 ft.-lb.
     
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  13. mjm2008

    mjm2008 Junior Member

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    Replacing the brake switch was the biggest pain in the !@#$%^& imaginable. Took me two hours, most of which was spent getting that tiny switch in and out of that tiny space. However, it seems to have done the trick. I think if I had some instructions on how to remove part of the dash it would have been a bit easier. Thanks to all!!! I'll post HERE before I bring the thing to the shop next time!!!