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2009 Prius ICE not starting or running

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by HDpwrsvr, Mar 22, 2019.

  1. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    Hi.
    Please help, need all the help I can get.
    I have read prior ICE not running/starting forums and i have check all listed possibilities.
    Here are my engine codes..

    2009 Prius base model. 109k miles.

    U0100 -lost comm w/ PCM/ECM "A"
    U0300- Battery control system
    C1259- HV sys regenerative malfunction abs/vsc/trac
    C1310- HV sys malfunction
    C1378- Capacitor comm malfunction
    B1210- Ignition control ECU comm stopped.

    Here is what I have done so far:
    1. Check for chewed wires in engine bay area - negative results.
    2. Fuses good. EFI,AM2, etc.
    3. 12v (aux) battery replaced
    4. Electric Invertor coolant pump replaced
    5. Coolant control valve pump 16670-21010 replaced. .. coolant filled.. used clamps to prevent too much coolant loss.


    Also, after I replaced the two pumps, the vehicle did not start. *** 2 days later when I went to get the car ready to go to the dealer the car started just fine with RED TRIANGLE, CHK ENGINE, ABS, TPMS, ON AND FUEL GUAGE flashing. The ICE started up Normally and charged the hybrid battery pack. I was able to drive for 20 mins around before the ICE just cut off and will not restart and drove strictly on Battery. Thats when I towed it to dealer. ***

    Vehicle went to Toyota dealer and they said to replace ECU 1st and auxiliary 12v battery because battery is dead - go figure. They said this is where they have to start and may not.solve the problem. I DONT HAVE 1600+ to just throw out to see if it fixes the problem. I have some knowledge about cars but this is my first hybrid.

    ECU - $800
    Ecu programming $400
    New 12v battery $400
    Total around $1600 + , fees and tax. Not incld.

    Pleae help!!!!
     
  2. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Your dealer sounds like a crook. Start with a 12v battery yourself from somewhere else for about 150 bucks and install it yourself. ECU programming 400 bucks? Is that even a thing? Used ECU’s sell for less than that I think.
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what the history of the car?

    what did you use to pull the codes?

    do you know how to test the 12v?
     
  4. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    @Skibob - yeah I feel the same, The 12 volt battery is a brand new one, they ran it till it was dead and didn't even use a tenderizer and recharge it. When I say new I meant like 1 week old.
     
  5. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    @bisco - I used a X431 pad 2 from my buddy to pull codes because the traditional code readers did not read it. I am able to see all the fault codes and description. Yes I am capable of using a volt meter. I have worked on cars since I was 15 years today I am 40. Background - R&R transmission, Motor, and interior wiring for my previous Nissan 200sx. I AM NOT A MECHANIC BY ANY MEANS JUST A WAY TO SAVE MONEY AND LEARN, but I have worked on cars in shops before finishing college.
    This is my first hybrid and I wanted to learn more about it that is why I am looking to fix it up myself. The reason I sent it to the dealer was to see if they had a capable mechanic that could diagnose the issue further than what I had gotten so far. I guess not because they only told me about the U0100 code and U0300. Service writer said they have to start here even though I had explain all that had transpired with the car. I do regular oil changes my self, was going to give it a trans and coolant change this summer. Only issues: TPMS light for right rear wheel, and one time in the winter heater did not blow hot air for like 5 mins after car was warm. this is the reason for the coolant pump change and the inverter coolant pump because of the failure rate Prius had for it. I had the car for 2 years and has been working fine. I have ordered an ECU 89661-47250 used to see if this can solve the issue. I have removed my ECU to make sure the part number is the same. I see that the HV CONTROL unit is bolted on it so I may order that one too to see if that may be the issue also. I know I am throwing parts against the car where no real mechanic would but unfortunately I had did all the wiring checks and no faulty wires where the naked eye can see. Lastly would be to check the wiring from ECU TO PCM to see if any break in wires, hopefully it does not come to this.

    Thank you both any additional insight would be greatly appreciated.
     
  6. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    Alright update... 03.28.2019 just put in used ECU.. car started up fine with check engine code on. Cleared it. Let car idle for like 20mins no problem. While car stayed on I drove for less then 2 miles ICE cut off again and won't come back on. I ran only on my hybrid battery. Unplugged battery from system and sat for 30 mins no luck. Check ongine light and Red triangles on again along with abs,vsc, pulled codes and same codes. U0100, u0300. It seems as though same issue car will start after bring parked for some time then once actively driving it for a short distance ICE cuts out amd will not statt back up.

    Any suggestions as to what the issue may be? Thank you.
     
  7. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    is there fluid movement in the inverter pump reservoir with the car ready?
     
  8. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    I am no expert but communication problems can fry a PCM. It is possible that the original PCM was fried and without finding the problem you may have fried your new one. Some circuits in a PCM are OK going to ground and some aren't.
    Most cars use what is called a 5 Volt reference circuit and without it there is no communication to the PCM.
    There are a few people on Prius Chat that know more about it than I do, I just know the theory.
    I wish I could tell you more.
     
  9. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    @bisco: have had the chance to check but will let you know. What sensor or relay can i check if the fluid does Not turn? It is a brand new inverter pump from toyota dealer.


    @padroo: there are no other codes for me to go off of to figure out what may be the issue. I am looking in to what turns the ICE on and off. Starting with the sensors and ECM.

    Thank you both.
     
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  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    no, i missed the new pump. that should be fine.

    are you using the service manual to trouble shoot? it sounds like a copy of tech stream might be helpful as well.
     
  11. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    I am going to be seraching for manuals, if u know where i can get them please let me know. Thank you.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    techinfo.toyota.com $15. for 2 days from what i've read
     
  13. padroo

    padroo Senior Member

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    I will start with the ETC "Engine Temperature Coolant" sensor. If the engine is too cold the ICE will start to bring it up to temperature and stay running until it does. Under no load conditions it will shut off and restart when it cools to reduce pollution.

    The ICE will start when the demand for more power is needed than the battery alone can provide. This would be TPS and whatever the other inputs to the PCM would be.

    Any time the HV battery is depleted to the point that it needs to be recharged the engine will start.

    All input sensors rely on the 5 V. reference circuit, if you have no 5 V. reference your car will never start. The PCM/ECM
    is looking for this 5 V reference and if it isn't there your computer is dead.

    Here is a link about the 5V reference circuit.

    5V Reference Circuit Short-To-Ground Repair Problem | MOTOR Magazine
     
  14. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    bisco likes this.
  15. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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  16. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    ******PROBLEM SOLVED FOR NOW 04.04.19 ******

    4 days ago after install of used ECU, *part number must match*. Drove for less than 1 mile vehicle ICE stalled.

    I Unplugged and replug :
    1. 3 connectors at the battery
    2. ECU all connectors x4. Behind glove box right side
    3. HV ECU .. all connectors x4. ***here top connector was loose on the 3rd disconnect, it came out easily where is should be depress. Now I dont believe this was the real issue 1st time bc I had a hard time removing it.
    4. Waited for 45mins then replug everything back--- car didnt start.
    Then car parked 4 days before I had the chance to retest. Today I went out and plug my key in to slot brake pedal depress hit the start button and motor started right up and stayed running like usual.
    ******* NOW I tried to send the car in to the diagnostic mode where the motor(ICE) stays running. Emergency brake on.
    1. Not pressing on brakes, hit start button x2. Then press down on gas pedal x2.
    2. Put car into neutral by holding brake down then shifting to neutral.
    3.depress gas pedal 2x
    4. Press park button
    5. Depress gas pedal 2x
    6. Hold brake pedal then hit start button once.
    Now ICE stays on until you turn off the car by hitting start button.
    * When I got the ICE to stay running in 30 seconds all the check engine, red triangle, vsc,abs all lights went out.*
    The car stayed running while I cleared the codes. Drove it for a total of 1 hour and 15 mins no issues. 3 hours later took car back out for another 30mins no issue.

    So all and all I believe it may be the ECU and the connectors not making a good connection for some odd reason. If the problem comes back I will repost. Thanks for all the help and hopefully this helps someone out there.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  17. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    Today is 11/26/2019 4:33pm. Alright hopefully this is my final update to this post and this ISSUE is finally resolved.
    I had U0100 and U0300 then U3000 came up later on after all the ecu were replaced. I replaced the main ecu, hybrid ecu both behind the glove box, and the ecu inside the hybrid battery pack. ALL initially solved the problem of shutting down then under 35 miles on each drive the same symptoms occurred over and over, first was 35 miles, second was 41 miles then back to 37 miles, then 39 miles. After 4 cycles of the same issue I decided to put all my old parts back and clean the entire HYBRID BATTERY PACK AND FAN.


    OK SO HERE IS THE FINAL RESULTS: ***************** PROBLEM SOLVED************************************


    After checking and double checking all orange wires for bite marks from animals to replacing all those parts to PUTTING ALL THOSE PARTS BACK. I Finally took out the hybrid battery pack, clean all the 28 flat plate terminals and the wire end caps with regular vinegar(yes regular eating vinegar from you supermarket will do the job) and scrub brush from Harbor freight and steel wool. Vacuum clean all the gaps between the each individual battery pack. I FOUND OUT THAT THE FAN WHICH KEEPS THE HYBRID BATTERY PACK CIRCULATING WITH AIR (LOCATED TO THE RIGHT REAR PANEL) WAS 90% CLOGGED WITH DOG HAIR... YES 90 PERCENT CLOGGED WITH DOG HAIR. CLEANED THAT OUT COMPLETELY ALONG WITH THE HYBRID BATTERY TERMINALS AND WIRE ENDS. HAPPY TO SAY PROBLEM SOLVED. I drove over 2500 miles and no issue what so ever, all the check engine lights went out, scanned it and no codes.

    SO ALL THE U0100 AND U0300 - NO COMMUNICATION CODES WERE ALL BY THE HYBRID BATTERY CORROSION AND CLOGGED FAN FOR THE HYBRID BATTERY PACK.

    I know what I am checking first on my next hybrid vehicle before anything else!!!!
     
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  18. HDpwrsvr

    HDpwrsvr Junior Member

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    ********************************** SEE 11/26/2019 4:33PM POST ON THIS PROBLEM HOW IT WAS SOLVED **************************
     
  19. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    congrats and well done!(y)
     
  20. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    thats a lot of corrosion and fur for a 2009 with low miles. your pet?