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2010 ac blowing ambient

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Jim Caldwell, Jul 19, 2020.

  1. Jim Caldwell

    Jim Caldwell Member

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    Went from working ok to no cooling in 2 or three days. I have r134a gauge set, vacuum pump, and an accurate gram scale. I serviced my jetta ac last year, but i am sure not an experieced pro with ac's. So yesterday i connected my gauge set up. Started car and yes, the "auto" and "ac" lights come on and stay on. Cabin air is blowing ok and it has a new filter. It had 5 psi on low side and zero on high side. So the charge is almost entirely gone. I read a little already on. Prius ac and understand its real critical to get the charge right.
    I got this car at 130k and its at 170k now. Paid 3800.00 for it. Had some minor damage to plastic front end parts. Great condition othrrwise. Its not one of the defective oil burners. (Going 6500 mi. On one liter). So i definitely want to keep this car. I have to make a decision as to whether to take it to Toyota dealer for service or try to fix myself. There is only one toyota dealership nearby and like all dealers they are high as a kite. Probably, even if compressor is still good, 1000.00 plus to fix leak and recharge? (But i havent had them check car or give estimate yet). But if I attempt it myself and charge it wrong and damage the compressor, then i end up paying much more even than that to the dealership maybe.
    I have techstream....but i think its not going to help with a refrigerant leak.
    If i fix myself, i would evacuate the system, verify/see how bad leak is, then id have to get some r134a into it with added red dye to locate leak.
    Id also have to change receiver/dryer...more research to get that done. Would it have lost the oil charge also?
    Is it a bad idea to attempt it myself?
     
  2. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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  3. lech auto air conditionin

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    No red dye right there is a warning sign you have read some information that was 40 to 50 years old or you were taking information from somebody who is older than that. UV dye you might be lucky and find a can of refrigerant that already has UV dye for a do it yourself person that is the best way to go. But make sure the can has no other additives in it.

    If you want to know if it’s worth recharging and that the system is at least operating properly before you take it to a shop to have them evacuated and way in the correct amount of refrigerant you have options

    Put it on the vacuum pump charge it up using vapor once the pressure goes over 50 psi the compressor should come on and then vapor charging only no liquid you should be able to slowly fill the system up to a close approximation of the weight you need because you only feel by weight not by pressure or temperatures.

    Looking for oily residue on your condenser kind of grayish black shaded dark spots on your condenser that built up a little dust is a good indication this is summertime so there has been hopefully no rain in your area that could’ve washed all that away because this oil is water soluble.

    You need to purchase a UV light you could go to my albums page in my profile and look at the pictures I have I have some recommendations for UV lights there you can find on Google. Condensers are the 90% culprit of leaks on Prius.
    When they age then comes a evaporator rarely a high pressure switch occasionally a cracked line but the prices are a very durable system except for the condenser is the weak link.

    Now supposedly if the compressor was good it’s running and you’re getting cool air out of the dash you know the compressor is operating you know all the pressure and temperature sensors are working if you still have not found a leak by now drive it for several days come back with the UV light and look over all the hoses the lines and condenser.

    The absolute most important thing do not use the Air conditioning system when you notice it getting less cool out of the Dash not working so well at this point you’re absolutely roasting the compressor it’s winding the hell out of it self turning into a inductive heater to smelt metal.

    The weight of the refrigerant going in is very crucial on a Prius. It will work if it’s overcharged it will work if it’s under charged at the cost of greatly reducing the compressors lifespan. This is why even technicians and shops with big machines are usually the cause of the death of a compressor on a Prius because they usually don’t get it right.
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Why not find out? I went that route and it was $150 CDN plus taxes. Of course they "quoted" $150 all-in, then when it came time to pay I had to fight tooth-and-nail to hold them to it, but that's ok, it's in their DNA.
     
  5. Jim Caldwell

    Jim Caldwell Member

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    I used to have a 2009 prius and still have a Bently manual covering gen II. Was the ac system rededigned for 2010? Can still use this info for gen III?
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    I can get you a link in a bit. That said, AC is something I like to fix with credit card and dealership: I'm just bright enough to know I should stay away from "repairing" it.
     
  7. Jim Caldwell

    Jim Caldwell Member

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    Ok i guess im particularly "dim-witted" as im still mulling over the idea of attempting to repair myself. Or just put some r134 with uv dye in to find the leak and fix that.....just leave the recharge for a pro. So the repair pdf say you should never turn on ac when the system is not charged, as the compressor will overheat and be destroyed. If that is definitely going to happen then i have already ruined the compressor. I put 100 mi. on the car in very hot weather on a commute the day i found i had no cooling. I left it on hoping i just had an intemittent problem. Then the next day, ran car with ac on, while i checked pressures with gauge set. I am old school. Use to be compressors would be disabled by low pressure switch when refrigerant was lost. It doesnt make sense for the compressor to continue to run when pressure is about zero as my system is. Looked at condenser and it appears undamaged, but the fins a getting somewhat corroded.....could be where leak is. So if i do the repair i would definitely replace that since its only about 60.00 for a reman. So if the compressor is fried, how much would that cost?
     
  8. lech auto air conditionin

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    Since your condenser is corroded sounds like the fins are falling apart then you would probably be replacing that anyway you called that right.

    Compressors you could pick up from salvage yards usually they work different states and counties have different prices ranging from under $100 to around $200 I hear some places are even more expensive for used salvage compressors.

    If you don’t mind a chance in the gamble and you do it yourself there’s one thing you can check that might give you some hope of a good outcome.

    When removing the bad compressor fill up the ports inlet outlet with some brake clean or carburetor cleaner shake it around a little bit and poured out into a clean glass bowl or a white paper plate and you’re looking for metal particles something that looks like glitter you might even get chunks that come out the size of a P or you can get superfine metal particles that look like the glittery shine inside pearl paint on a car. This would be a bad thing meaning you have a little trash in the rest of the system to not just the condenser.

    Then there’s two camps of that just throw on the compressor and condenser Cross your fingers it will work for a while and then die a premature death.
    The other more correct method is replace the expansion valve use air conditioning flush solvent available at most all auto parts stores and clean out the evaporator and all metal lines and rubber hoses put it all back together with new O-rings and as long as the use compressor you purchased is good all should be good for many more years.

    So long as the recharge and vacuum and oil or all done properly

    Compressors last the life of the vehicle usually 275,000 miles to 400,000 miles without burning up so long as they never are allowed to run low on refrigerant