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2010 Head Gasket replacement - questions before reassembly

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by bdc101, Oct 22, 2023.

  1. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Just gotta put it back together now and hope it runs well. It ran pretty well when I bought it, and I even drove it home about ten miles without any weird behavior other than the death rattle on startup. I am a little worried that the head will seal completely though -- when I was test fitting it before applying the RTV and torquing it down, I marked it a tiny bit with the alignment pegs. I have been doing all my own wrenching for 20+ years now but this is the first head gasket I have done all by myself. I'll feel better when it's running, that's for sure!
     
  2. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Been unable to find time to work on it for the past two weeks. Today I got it all cleaned up and ready to put the timing cover on. I get out my Permatex ultra black RTV and get the bead halfway around. Then my fingers feel gooey all of a sudden and yup, my tube of Permatex has popped in my hands. I had to wipe all the RTV off before it dried. What an absolute disaster.
     
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  3. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    Welcome to life! :)

    Expect the worse, because it happens, and you'll never be disappointed.

     
  4. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Got two tubes of FIPG and got the job done in one this time! Got the timing cover on, water pump and OFH. Now it's just getting the tensioner on without losing time, and reassembly. Looking forward to driving the baby.
     
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  5. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Question for the brain trust - since I have only driven my prius once, for 15 minutes, driving home on the highway (and hoping it wouldn't break down on me):

    When I get this this put back together, sealed up, full of coolant, and everything plugged back in, what happens when I press "start?" Is the ICE engine going to start immediately and stay running or should I put it in the maintenance mode to make sure it keeps the gas engine on? Should I leave it idling or should I drive it around? Any other suggestions?
     
  6. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    It will do nothing for several seconds, then the engine will start, hopefully. ;)
    It will probably rattle some while the liffters fill up, and any left over fluids...
    Then it should quiet down and smooth out. That's what mine did.
    I let it run until it stopped on its own. Then I shut it down and checked all the fluids.
    And for leaks. You'll probably have to add a little coolant.
    If all is well, drive it around the neighborhood for a while.
    Then go home and shut it down. Check the fluids. Check for leaks.


     
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  7. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Cool, that's comforting. I am still learning a lot about these cars. Having fun though :)

    Got the timing chain tensioner on tonight, and the valve cover. Probably will have it ready to start this weekend or maybe earlier, if I'm lucky.
     
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  8. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    SURPRISE!!! ANOTHER DUPLICATE POST
     
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  9. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Alright, brain trust, help me out again. I got this thing all buttoned up but there is an extra connector here (pic attached).

    Oddly, the connector is the exact same five-pin connector that connects to the water pump! There are TWO five pin connectors that are exactly the same which end up in the same place. One is on the harness that droops over the intake manifold from the driver's side, and the other comes from the small passenger side harness, which only has three or four total connectors. I believe the first one is the correct one for the water pump just based on the routing and length, but either one can plug into the water pump without strain. And I cannot find anything else that isn't plugged in!
     

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  10. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Ah! Solved it! I watched two reassembly videos for an hour trying to figure out where this connector went. And then as soon as I post here, I figure it out. It actually goes to the wiper motor! But I had the cowl off so I couldn't see it. Looks like I just need to put oil and coolant in it, double check everything, and then find out if I did it all right!
     
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  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    AC compressor pump?
     
  12. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Ok it starts and idles! Sounds right when it runs, but it did make the death rattle sound a couple of times while it was idling. Hopefully that will work itself out.

    One question, when the car is in park and the engine is running, if you push your foot on the gas, the engine is VERY slow to rev up. Is that normal? It does rev up eventually but takes a few seconds.
     
  13. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Rats... throwing a crankshaft/camshaft correlation code... I assume that means I got the timing off. I haven't driven it yet, only idled, and it's hard to tell from the sound since I have only drove this car for 15 minutes before pulling the head.
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    With cold engine start up, rpm goes up to a certain fast idle, and just sits there until coolant temp rises enough, and during that time all propulsion is electric. You can see this with any start up: you step on the gas, rpm stays stable.

    You say it's running smooth. With even one tooth off, would that be the case? Not sure.
     
  15. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    Pulled it out of the garage and then back in... reset the code once but it threw it again after a bit of idling... the camshaft/crankshaft correlation code is P0016 and there is also a P3190 now too. It said "Check hybrid system" and then stopped running. Google says there may be a vacuum leak, so I'll check that first and then the timing.
     
  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    It's not easy for me to think of any way other than crank/cam miscorrelation to get a crank/cam miscorrelation code.
     
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  17. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    You should pull the top valve cover and check the timing marks.
    The gold links likely won't line up, so just put the crank at TDC on the zero mark,
    then check the cams. The marks should line up like when you were going to put the timing
    chain on. If they don't, then the timing cover needs to come off and the chain set correctly.

    Then after you get the timing cover back on, and the tensioner released, rotate the engine
    720 degrees and check your marks again. They cam marks should be correct.

     
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  18. bdc101

    bdc101 Member

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    So the cam marks should always line up between the two cams, just the crank will be off after rotation. Is that right?
     
  19. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    First, you put the crank mark on the "0" (TDC for #1 Pistion). Then check the cam marks.
    If they aren't close, then rotate the crank another 360 degrees. Now the marks on the cam should
    line up against the cam housing. Just like you would when you are about to put the timing chain on.

    If either mark is off, then you'll have to reset the chain. If you are feeling "lucky", you could pull the
    tensioner, slowly and carfully, then lift the chain into position....
    I'd bet you are off 1 tooth on one of them.

    You should always rotate the engine twice and recheck the mark before starting the engine.
    Easier with the spark plugs out.

     
  20. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    The crank rotates twice for every once of the cams, so when the crank is indicating TDC, the cams can either be on their marks, or 180° off their marks.

    Out of every nine times you see the painted chain links go by, they should all be on their marks one of those times. (Nine is just the number for this engine; for others you just have to work it out from counting the chain links and sprocket teeth.)