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2010 Level II not Two

Discussion in 'Prius Cars For Sale' started by bwilson4web, Jan 3, 2017.

  1. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Both keys; he put the check in the prepaid priority mailer that had the title and bill of sale to be completed and I handed over both keyfobs. It was about 21F with a gusting 20 mph wind (beach weather in Boston.) We got back in the terminal and finished the paperwork over coffee and taquelia. Then he dropped me off at the bus terminal and we're both headed home in opposite directions.

    Next week I hope to see the tags and registration back in the mailer, and later the flashlight, scangauge, and leather man.

    $24,000 purchased May, 2009
    $7,750 sold @73,092 miles Jan 2017
    (with the stuff Toyota forgot)

    Bob Wilson
     
  2. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    Yesterday I drove the car from Nashville, TN to Grand Rapids, MI - 581 miles. Bob knows how to take care of cars. I got 53 mpg average driving between 65 and 70 mph on the freeway. Other than some scratches on the bumper covers this car looks and drives like new! I ran it through the car wash to shed all the road salt and it's parked in my driveway.

    Thanks for the deal, Bob. If you ever get bored of your Prius Prime ping me. We may have fully autonomous flying cars with ultracapacitor batteries by then but one can always hope!
     
    #22 mjoo, Jan 9, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2017
  3. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    I'm a sucker for happy endings.....

    HEY!!! I got dibs on whatever Bob's CFO picks for the Prime's stablemate!!!
    Hopefully 8-10 years from now..... ;)
     
  4. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I forgot to mention about the over-filled oil from May. I was thinking more about getting the new pair of tires on as normally I have the service writer put in a note to put in no more than 4 quarts. In this case, I forgot so the car has about an extra quart of oil. In the earlier 1.5L Prius that would kill MPG BUT the 1.8L engine has a special oil 'gallery' to handle the foaming so I didn't drain it out. Also, the extra warm-up time of the extra quart is not that significant in Alabama. Just remember to tell the service writer with your next change. I also changed the cabin filter when I bought the engine air filter in May.

    My annual practice is to do two oil changes and one air filter change per year. One change in the Spring to get rid of condensed water in the oil (the thermal cycles!) Then an air filter and oil change in the fall after the seasonal pollens, plowed field dust, and insects die off. Yes, I know one can vacuum the filter but they aren't that expensive.

    About those tires, I use the 'European' style replacement cycle: (1) front tires wear out first, do not rotate but measure all tread depths and inspect to check for any abnormal patterns; (2) order two new tires for the rear; (3) move rear tires to front and check the wear pattern, and; (4) mount new tires on rear. I can actually feel the handling deteriorate when the front tires get thin but I'm only paying for a new pair with each change.

    Ordinarily the rear wheels can not be toe and camber adjusted. However there is an 'easy shim' system that can do both toe and camber but this is something an ordinary tire place can't even spell, much less do right. Fortunately, the rear wheels on that car were close enough and I found no evidence of rear tire wear patterns needing to be shimmed.

    Remind the service writer of the lug-nut torque. They will of say 'of course we always follow ...' but seeing the note 'customer expected xxx ft-lbs on the lug nuts and 4 quarts of 0-20W synthetic oil' lets everyone know you're not the ordinary bear. Tell your significant other to do the same with a practiced voice with confidence and everyone will respect her!

    They will reduce the tire pressure to door-jam levels to do the alignment and they know how to reset the tire pressure warning system. It is OK to ask them to re inflate tires to 51 psi when done but I prefer to borrow their hose and do it right. <GRINS>

    You'll find the tires on that car are not the 'standard' Toyota sized tires. I use a slightly oversized tire whose revs per mile keep the error between GPS, mile markers and trip meters to a minimum.

    I ran those tires at the maximum sidewall pressure, 51 psi, because I like the precise handling. On a nice dry day, experiment with taking curves at faster and faster speeds ... I love the expression on tailgaters when we hit a curve and I am pulling away. Accelerating in a curve also solves the merging problem! The tires run cooler and last longer. In one of my studies, I found maximum sidewall pressure measurably reduces the temperature effects of a slightly out of alignment wheel. In another, older paper, stopping distances became shorter in the rain with increased tire pressure, as the harder tire pushes the water aside instead of hydro planning >>> but theory doesn't make up for too much speed at the wrong time! <<<

    I don't pay any attention to 'low rolling resistance' because there are no objective metrics. I see 'low rolling resistance' as advertising, not engineering. But maximum sidewall pressure, 51 psi, is real and works. Tire Rack calls them 'small pickup' tires but at maximum sidewall, the tire weight capacity is at maximum and higher than the OEM and recommended replacements.

    The tire pressure light goes ON when it drops about 10 psi. Experience has shown cold weather and/or ever 2-3 months, it is time to top them off. There is lot of malarky about 'cold inflation'. If the car is sitting in the shade for an hour or so, go for it. But if the sun is shinning on one side, wait until all tires can cool an hour or more in the shade. IMHO, 'cold inflation' advocates wear a copper bracelet or a PhD ... sometimes both.

    One last thing, an air block on the lower, front bumper works well in cold weather. It reduces the aerodynamic drag at high speeds and shortens the warm-up time almost as much as a block heater. Use your Scangauge to monitor ICE temperature and take them off when temperature approach 80F.

    My testing revealed the best air block was nearly totally, conformal with the front of the bumper, especially the side edges. Use wide, 'blue' masking tape to hold the experiment. Once you're happy, find some old political signs, the plastic flex kind, and use the cardboard ones as a template. Add some bungie cords from a hardware store, paint, and problem solved. There is an outside temperature probe on the driver side so you'll want some cooling air flow there.

    Hope that isn't too anal-retentive. <GRINS>

    Bob Wilson
     
    #24 bwilson4web, Jan 9, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 9, 2017
    jerrymildred likes this.
  5. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    The oil capacity (with a new filter) is 4.4 quarts. So do you think they added 0.6 quarts extra?

    The Dutch side of me may let them overfill and then siphon the extra out to use as spare or as bon fire starter fluid.
     
  6. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    Check the service write-up but I think they charged me for 5 quarts. You may remember the oil level was above the full marker.

    Bob Wilson
     
  7. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    I do remember that but I thought it was from the warm engine oil draining into the pan.
     
  8. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Looks like a real win-win! Question:
    I'm curious which tires you use. It will be a while before I need them since mine came with brand new Yokohamas.
     
  9. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    You'll have to contact the new owner or look for my postings in the Gen-3 forum. It is easier to describe how I approach the problem:
    • Measure the error - use a trip meter and mile markers or a GPS to measure the error.
    • Identify the revs/mile of the current tires (Tire Rack and/or @john1701a journals)
    • Use Tire Rack specs for the next tire, revs/mile, and find one that most closely matches the correction
    The method is more important because tire companies change their product mix over time. I used to cite Sumitomo but the model I was using disappeared about 2-3 years ago. So the most recent purchase were Yokohama. It is something I do each time I need to buy new tires.

    Bob Wilson
     
    #29 bwilson4web, Jan 12, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2017
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  10. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Thanks, Bob. I finally got around to comparing mine to my GPS. It's about the same error as the '05 was. I'll wait to do the research myself till it's closer to time to buy tires since these are brand spanking new. It'll be interesting to see how my actual gas mileage compares to what the computer says when I eventually have to buy gas. Enjoy your new ride. I'm slightly jealous even though I'm totally happy with my "new" PiP.
     
  11. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    bwilson4web likes this.
  12. bwilson4web

    bwilson4web BMW i3 and Model 3

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    I went back to my Tire Rack account:

    AH75814
    P195/65R-15 Yokohama AVID Ascend (T-Speed Rated) SL (Qty:2)
    05/18/2016
    $177.40
    Shipped

    Specs: Yokohama&nbsp;AVID Ascend (T-Speed Rated)

    Currently Selected Tire Size(s) (View Specs for All Sizes)
    SIZE UTQG MAX.
    LOAD
    Max. Inflation Pressure Tread Depth Tire Weight Rim Width Range Meas. Rim Width Sect. Width Tread Width Overall Diam. Revs. Per Mile Country of
    Origin*

    P195/65R15
    89T SL

    LRR:
    BluEarth 800 A B 1,279 lbs. 51 psi 12/32" 21 lbs. 5.5-7" 6" 8" 5.9" 25.1" 828 US

    My criteria: "51 psi" and corrected revs/mile (or close enough), 828 revs/mile

    UTQG LOAD Max. Inflation Pressure Tread Depth Tire Weight Rim Width Range Meas. Rim Width Sect. Width Tread Width Overall Diam. Revs. Per Mile Country
    1 800 A B 1279 lbs. 51 psi 12/32" 21 lbs. 5.5-7" 6" 8" 5.9" 25.1" 828 US


    I go with the maximum psi first because that reduces the rolling friction. The "revs/mile" is less important since I amuse myself by doing those calculations in my head while driving down the road. The trick is to use multiplication instead of long division.

    Bob Wilson
     
    #32 bwilson4web, Jan 12, 2017
    Last edited: Jan 12, 2017
  13. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Yokohama Avid Touring S 195/65R15 89S here. I'm running them at 40 front and 38 rear. Might try max pressure to see what happens.
     
  14. mjoo

    mjoo Senior Member

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    If I can find space in the engine compartment I'll install an oil bypass filter. Stay tuned...

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.