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2010 Prius getting 40-42 mpg

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by uniquename546, Mar 8, 2023.

  1. uniquename546

    uniquename546 New Member

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    Hello! Long-time lurker here.

    I bought a 2010 base model Prius at 155k, with the owner getting ~33 mpg per the trip computer, a check engine light, very obvious/concerning misfires, and some squealing when turning the steering wheel. I didn’t see any milky oil or oil in the coolant reservoir.

    The owner said they’d had some of the cells of the hybrid battery replaced in the last few months with warranty and reading the voltages, they seem to be within 0.01 V of one another. Checking the battery in the trunk, the date code is January of 2019 and it has the Toyota OEM warranty until 2025; however, when I turn off the car at night with the headlights on, the lights definitely dim but I wouldn’t consider this strange when comparing it against a regular gas-powered car losing alternator power. The tires are at 34 psi all around.

    I replaced the original spark plugs and cleaned the EGR pipe & intake manifold (& replaced the intake gasket). I wasn’t able to get the EGR heat exchanger off to clean it because I couldn’t see/feel the last bolt on the side of the exchanger bolting into the engine. This got rid of the check engine light & misfires, and improved gas mileage to 40-42 mpg (~41 on highway and ranging 40-42 in hilly so-cal).

    I’ve driven it ~500 miles since I worked on the car but the mileage isn’t going over 43 mpg. The squealing steering has completely disappeared, which makes me think the owner might have let it sit, especially between 2020-2022. Do you have any tips for getting it closer to the EPA reported mileage and next steps for service?

    I’m currently thinking about just doing oil changes, transmission fluid, brake fluid, hybrid cooling fan cleaning, and maybe both engine & battery coolant.
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    No you're in the hills so that's probably going to be about normal My Gen 2 would get about 43 and a half miles per gallon there in the hills that is. And sunny North Carolina Central North Carolina mostly the flatlands I get about 46 47 maybe this is in my generation too My wife and a 13 persona and get about 46 to 48 has a heavy foot. Other people are going to say the car should get 50 miles to the gallon If I got 50 mi to the gallon in my 13 persona I would probably have a line of traffic behind me going to the state line or some such kind of nonsense never seen it And I've had good running Gen 3 and a failed engine generation 3 I've driven them in both conditions The Gen 3 even with a bad HV battery still most of the time stayed above 40 In real world mileage Toyota rated the car from 37 to well you tell me whatever it was
     
  3. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Try again. You can take it off (it’s a nut btw) any time, and leave it off. Ditto for the stud it screws onto (requires Torx E8 socket). This can be done at any time, without any other intervention, and left off permanently. See first two links in my signature. On a phone, turn it landscape to see signatures.

    Did you note codes, and could you share?
     
  4. uniquename546

    uniquename546 New Member

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    Thank you! I’ll keep in mind that the mileage is in the reasonable range. I’ll try again this weekend to clean the inter cooler .

    When I bought the car, it was p0301. Driving for <100 mi, it went away and then came back <100 mi later as p0303.
     
  5. Paladain55

    Paladain55 Active Member

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    Sounds like the brakes are seized up if the squealing steering went away. The hub slight movement allowing the rotor and pads to move while the caliper is more or less locked in one position one one side or both sides They seize up faster when they sit without driving. Try doing the 4 corner dissassembly/clean/relube of the sliding pins. You will probably need the grommet and dust boot kit and sliding pins so get it before you start.
    The egr cooler cleaning won't boost your gas mileage much if any, but it makes the car a lot smoother at ultra low rpms. The big thing outside of that is make sure you did a great job doing that intake manifold clean. The car can't tell if it has good even flow to each cylinder after the valve so thats what kills them. Judging by that cylinder 1 misfire you did a good job catching it because thats the "death cel"
    Do all of the maintenance you mentioned above as well and make sure you use pink coolant not red.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    With p0301 (misfire on cyl 1), your miles , neglected EGR cleaning and symptoms, I’d focus on head gasket: they reliably start leaking coolant into cyl 1, around your miles and condition. Typically the wall between between cyl 1 and 2.

    leak down test and boroscope inspection (with coolant system pressurized) are the usual diagnostic methods.
     
  7. Paladain55

    Paladain55 Active Member

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    Yeah verify the head gasket is intact with a leak down test or a block test or both.
     
  8. uniquename546

    uniquename546 New Member

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    Thank you all! I will do the engine block test this weekend and report back. I think the brakes might need some work since it does feel like it’s pulsing when I start using them. I also forgot to mention, at least part of the under-car shield(s) are missing. Could this also have a strong impact on mileage?
     
  9. uniquename546

    uniquename546 New Member

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    I couldn't find an engine block test kit to rent but I happened to step out of the car while it was running and smelt the sweet smell of coolant so I'm fairly certain the head gasket is blown. I didn't smell it any other time so I think it might be burning most of the coolant around startup? Would you recommend I park it until I replace the head gasket or keep driving it often to avoid letting coolant settle/seep into the cylinder?

    Would you recommend replacing the head gasket and hoping nothing is bent or look for a JDM motor to swap?
     
  10. uniquename546

    uniquename546 New Member

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    I wanted to add - I think my daily commute just happens to have too many hills in it. Driving really carefully around hiking spots this past weekend, I was able to get it as high as 52-53 mpg by hypermiling only when there was no one behind me.

    I would still appreciate any advice on whether or not to drive it around while looking for places to work on my car and if I should look to replace the engine or only the head gasket (+ a few other gaskets around the timing chain)
     
  11. uniquename546

    uniquename546 New Member

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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    if you're going to do the head gasket, do it right, or replace the whole engine.

    you can continue to drive, but keep an eye on coolant and oil levels
     
  13. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Once this is happened your engine is probably starting to buckle up squeeze in and suck in its butt cheeks whatever you want to say. So do the smart thing and just replace the engine from a low mileage takeout from the Japan domestic market It's the cheapest thing you're going to be able to do unless you have a friend or family in the business and can really do something for a less I doubt it Friends people will come out of the woodwork thinking whatever they think and then when they do their research they realize oh God so there you go You can fiddle fart around and have people doing their best work but if they're doing their best work on compromised pieces of metal then they're best work doesn't matter this is the problem You can be the best in the world at something but if you can't get the best things to work with well your work is not going to shine probably
     
  14. Paladain55

    Paladain55 Active Member

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    If you can verify the head gasket is blown I wouldn't drive it. The start up knocks can get pretty violent which will ruin the engine. The head gasket replacement by itself is a lot easier.
     
  15. uniquename546

    uniquename546 New Member

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    Thanks all! I had the engine leak down tested and compression tested. It came back within spec/normal wear for that age.
     
  16. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

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    Actually to be honest about it it's a lot easier to change the engine You think changing the head gasket and timing. Over and all that tight space business no it's much quicker to yank the engine out drop another one in spend the 4 hours bolting it up doing any housekeeping and whatever you need to do Way quicker at least it is to me