2010 PRIUS. NO START. NO READY LIGHT. ENGINE DOES NOT TURN ON . HELP.

Jetlifekc · Sep 16, 2019

Hello everyone new to the forum,

I recently purchased this 2010 prius with the hopes off getting it to run. I knowingly bought not running. I am very mechanically inclined and personally enjoy finding and trouble shooting non running or broken things. However being new to the gen 3 and hybrids themselves any help well greatly help me.

HERE ARE THE SYMPTOMS

When i Approach the vehicle the keyless entry works and unlocks doors by touching the handle

I can hear A noise when i open the door ( sounds like a pump priming)

Headlights flick on and off dome lights work without touching power button

When i press the brake and power button to turn on the car the led is green READY light briefly flashes then does not return and then i get an amber led light on power button

various dash lights are illuminated including the brake light check engine light abs light steering wheel with exclamation mark

When i hit the power button to turn on car i can hear relays clicking in the back and in the engine i also hear a noise in the engine bay ( maybe coolant pump)

After numerous attempts i get the check hybrid system with the orange trianle i can pull the negative terminal or clear the code with my basic scanner to remove the triangle light and "check hybrid message"

CODES THAT I AM GETTING INCLUDE / TROUBLE SHOOTING
p0300
P0301
P0302
P0304
P0a1a
P0a1b
P0a40
P0a41

I dont have access to tech-stream at the moment but i am working on it
I suspect it can be the inverter converter unit biased towards the IPM
Ive checked voltages on the aux 12v reading between 12v-13v holds charge overnight
Basic fuse check in fuse box
Not sure how to check hv battery

MY QUESTIONS ARE

1. How can i trouble shoot the inver / converter to make sure its the problem
2. Is the inverter/ converter unit interchangeable with other part numbers. My part number is is g9200-47180 with an (A)
3. What other tests can i make to narrow my results ?
4. How does the starter circuit work to turn on the ICE ?
5. How can i test integrated relay in the fuse box ?
6. Is there a way to check voltage entering inverter voltage exiting and voltage entering mg1 and mg2?

Dxta · Sep 17, 2019

You forgot to state what mileage the car is!
1. You got to have the 12V battery checked and replaced if it is weak.
Weak battery can't power the HV relays properly to closed the HV system circuitry to start the car.

2. The winning noise at the hood could be the inverter pump? I don't think its the inverter pump making such a noise.
The inverter pump would only function, if the car is in READY MODE. Since there isn't that happening, I guess its the vehicle ECU at the front that's making the noise.

3. That engine has a lot of misfires, except cylinder 1.
Can you removed the spark plugs and see how they looked like? Any signs of fouling on them(milk like suspension, or carbon deposits)? If milk like colour, you've a blown gasket head, but if carbon fouled, or worn out, replaced them.

4. Starter circuit works in turning the car on, only when the 12V battery, in good condition, sends some juice to the HV system main relays or contactor's. When they get fed that juice, the HV circuits closes and the car enters ready mode.

5. Several ways to test the integration relay. Although of my mind, you've three segments on that relay, which integrates both the AF relay, and EFI main relays.
If you've access to tech info after paying for subscription, you can have access to it. A multimeter would be required in this case. You're testing for specific resistance values there.

6. Have you checked the EFI main fuses, and maybe the AM2 fuse too? They are all embedded on that integration relay.

7. A way of checking the voltage entering, would be either using your techstream to check voltage before boosting and after boosting. You get that function, when you get to the data list function.
Another way I contest that is to use my digital meter, set it on 1000VDC, and see how much volts I have got with the safety switch still intact, etc.

PS: the green light tells you the car is communicating, but it also appears the state of your HV battery might need to be checked!

You may have to swapped the inverter out, if you've got any lying in the shop. You can get a used one with same part number, or higher.

I like projects like this.

bisco · Sep 17, 2019

congrats and welcome!

read up here on tech stream

Grit · Sep 17, 2019

Projects of that magnitude will require techstream, good luck & keep us posted

Jetlifekc · Sep 17, 2019

Car has 238k no updates as of yet i will keep you guys posted

Jetlifekc · Sep 18, 2019

A little update i measured the voltage of the battery pack cells and they all measured around 7.45 -7.38 volts i noticed corrosion around the ends and on the bus bars i am going to clean them all ive attatched a few pictures for ref.

I also removed the coil packs and spark plugs, they look ok their were 3 coil packs in the car so i swapped them out to see what happens i also swapped cylinder 3 coil and plug ( since it was the only cylinder that was not throwing the misfire code) into cylinder 1 which did not help. I think i can rule out bad coils and plugs ive also attatched pics

I messed around with the sensor / wiring harness on top of the transaxle and replaced / changed out some fuses which i noticed removed p0a40 and p0a41 which is interesting i also noticed that the battery pack on the dash display is filed almost 75% Not sure if all these are coincidence or if they will pop back up but i willl update as i go to contribute towards the community as always thank you to all and your input !

@Dxta i am working on your bullet points and tis is in the mail

Dxta said: ↑

You forgot to state what mileage the car is!
1. You got to have the 12V battery checked and replaced if it is weak.
Weak battery can't power the HV relays properly to closed the HV system circuitry to start the car.

2. The winning noise at the hood could be the inverter pump? I don't think its the inverter pump making such a noise.
The inverter pump would only function, if the car is in READY MODE. Since there isn't that happening, I guess its the vehicle ECU at the front that's making the noise.

3. That engine has a lot of misfires, except cylinder 1.
Can you removed the spark plugs and see how they looked like? Any signs of fouling on them(milk like suspension, or carbon deposits)? If milk like colour, you've a blown gasket head, but if carbon fouled, or worn out, replaced them.

4. Starter circuit works in turning the car on, only when the 12V battery, in good condition, sends some juice to the HV system main relays or contactor's. When they get fed that juice, the HV circuits closes and the car enters ready mode.

5. Several ways to test the integration relay. Although of my mind, you've three segments on that relay, which integrates both the AF relay, and EFI main relays.
If you've access to tech info after paying for subscription, you can have access to it. A multimeter would be required in this case. You're testing for specific resistance values there.

6. Have you checked the EFI main fuses, and maybe the AM2 fuse too? They are all embedded on that integration relay.

7. A way of checking the voltage entering, would be either using your techstream to check voltage before boosting and after boosting. You get that function, when you get to the data list function.
Another way I contest that is to use my digital meter, set it on 1000VDC, and see how much volts I have got with the safety switch still intact, etc.

PS: the green light tells you the car is communicating, but it also appears the state of your HV battery might need to be checked!

You may have to swapped the inverter out, if you've got any lying in the shop. You can get a used one with same part number, or higher.

I like projects like this.
Click to expand...

Dxta · Sep 19, 2019

Jetlifekc said: ↑

A little update i measured the voltage of the battery pack cells and they all measured around 7.45 -7.38 volts i noticed corrosion around the ends and on the bus bars i am going to clean them all ive attatched a few pictures for ref.

I also removed the coil packs and spark plugs, they look ok their were 3 coil packs in the car so i swapped them out to see what happens i also swapped cylinder 3 coil and plug ( since it was the only cylinder that was not throwing the misfire code) into cylinder 1 which did not help. I think i can rule out bad coils and plugs ive also attatched pics

I messed around with the sensor / wiring harness on top of the transaxle and replaced / changed out some fuses which i noticed removed p0a40 and p0a41 which is interesting i also noticed that the battery pack on the dash display is filed almost 75% Not sure if all these are coincidence or if they will pop back up but i willl update as i go to contribute towards the community as always thank you to all and your input !

@Dxta i am working on your bullet points and tis is in the mail
Click to expand...

Once again, thanks for your comments.
Surprising, your spark plugs are pretty much still ok. No signs of excess heat on the insulation ceramics. Never knew they were long threaded too.

I can see some form of leaks or spills on a portion of the battery tray.

Did you noticed any significant corrosion on Amy of the modules on that area?

Dxta · Sep 19, 2019

It appears the gen3 don't really have issues with their battery packs as noticed in the gen2s.

Raytheeagle · Sep 19, 2019

A side safety note: I’d work on the battery outside of the car .

Don’t want to find voltage the hard way around the metal present there.

Good luck and keep us posted .

ASRDogman · Sep 19, 2019

YOU CHICKEN!!!!

Raytheeagle said: ↑

A side safety note: I’d work on the battery outside of the car .

Don’t want to find voltage the hard way around the metal present there.

Good luck and keep us posted .
Click to expand...

Jetlifekc · Sep 20, 2019

Ive contacted my local toyota dealer and the p0a1a code is covered under the ZE3 warranty enhancement program im debating on towing the car there and have them switch out / repair the inverter converter hopefully it starts (fingers crossed) with that repair if not i would have to either tow it back or have them diagnose/ fix

Jetlifekc · Sep 23, 2019

I was messing around with the inverter / converter found alot of corrosion and dirt/ sand around and inside this was before i knew of the extended warranty i cleaned the connectors and reinstalled. On thing i noticed wa son the orange leads the brackets felt like they had alot of play i was able to wiggle them a significant amount but they were attached and intact ive attached pictures for reference

Jetlifekc · Oct 5, 2019

Hello everyone i have good news i took the car to toyota they replaced the ipcm and the car started ! I will post updates wit exact codes and part numbers in time

ASRDogman · Oct 5, 2019

I'm glad it up and running for you!

Jetlifekc · Oct 18, 2019

Hello everyone hope all is well a little update on the vehicle it is running how ever it is only averaging around 40 mpg if i am very careful i can t get it up to 43mpg i am doing mostly highway driving. So fr their are a few issues with the vehicle that might be contributing i am hoping you guys can help me with

- code p0420 : i suspect it is the catalytic converter i dumped a can of crc cleaner in the gas tank the raised the average mpg from 37mpg to around 40ish mpg
- code p0301 : mis fire cylinder 1 not sure what this could be i am going to try and switch coil pack and spark plug first
- also ac is not blowing cold i am hoping it just needs a recharge not sure if this ac system is different from typical cars

Any suggestions are appreciated

ASRDogman · Oct 18, 2019

I would take it back to Toyota. They changed the part and it was working.
Right?

Jetlifekc · Oct 19, 2019

Well the car was not running before and i bought it not running so their is no way of knowing if this problem existed before

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