2010 Prius not starting without starter fluid in throttle body, fuel pump issue?

The thing that puzzles me is that it requires the starter fluid to start, but then runs for a minute before shutting off normally. So for most of that minute, fuel was getting to it.

But I wouldn't know that from this new thread, because that information's only in your older thread on the same issue.

 

Ok. I could buy a fuel pump problem for that then.

 

I'd probably do a pressure test before paying for a pump.

 

Yes maybe.
But it is even MORE common for things to get worse after you "fix" them.
You might have one or more injectors that are now not working at all.

 

I don't think the car has any on board fuel pressure measurement- the thing you see in techstream is what you use to force the pump to run so that you can get an honest pressure reading on the gauge you don't have.

It's a tough call. Electric fuel pumps are pretty much the king of "no returns once sold" and I'd hate to see you splash out on a new one only to discover that it was never the problem in the first place.

 

At the same time, it's not very straightforward to hook up a pressure gauge and test it.

 

Toyota EFI pumps can be sourced very inexpensive . Matter of fact I haven't used the Toyota branded fuel pump in any of my Corollas or Toyota's. Since probably 88 and the same Toyota fuel pump that goes in most of my Corollas and whatnot for EFI if it's a lot of my power sports equipment same exact pump drop it in and go so I keep a few around and they're pretty fast to change $155,000 mi back in the old days that would be an electronic fuel pumps time to get ready to go today they seem to do double that if not run forever the one in my Gen 2 is original 300 plus few Corollas with similar miles I haven't had a fuel pump go out in a long time and a Toyota and they're all electric EFI pumps for the last 20 years or so. I buy re boxed from all the major suppliers

 

You could use a credit card, then take it back the same day....

 

I don't have much experience with techstream (and I've never needed to check prius fuel pressure) but going on what little I have? no, I don't think it will be useful.

 

Let's see if I can make this any clearer:
It is possible......or likely even......that what you did to the injectors DAMAGED them.
Especially the part about testing them with a 12 V battery. (might have burned out the coils)

And isn't most of that $140 at Autozone a "deposit" that you get back when you return the equipment ??

 

Back when the PriusChat injector exchange thing was going on, Rich of Cruzin Performance, who was doing the restorations, recommended using a 9 V battery for bench testing.

Of course the injectors work on 12+ volts in the car, but only for computer-controlled pulses measured in milliseconds, and that's hard to replicate when just poking it with wires by hand, when it's probably also not mounted in a big hunk of aluminum and with fuel flowing through it to keep it cool.

The 9 V battery is still enough to find out if it's going to click or not, but reduces the V²/R heating by nearly 50%, giving you a better chance of not overheating the things.

 

Injectors are designed to be operated by very short pulses of energy.
If you leave them connected to a voltage source for too long they could be damaged.
COULD BE is the key phrase here.

 

The repair manual test for checking the injection volume asks you to connect the injector to a (9 V? 12 V?) battery for 15 seconds.

Assuming, conservatively, that the prescribed battery is 9 V, the same amount of Joule heating would be produced by a 12 V battery in 7-8 seconds. As long as the injectors were not connected continuously for longer than that, I would not expect to see any damage.

 

During an injection-volume test, fuel (or test fluid) would flow through the injector for the whole 15 seconds, tending to cool it.

An injector held in the hand for a simple will-it-click test normally won't have flow like that to dissipate heat.

I have no first-hand experience with damaging an injector that way, and no real idea how long it might take; on this subject I'm only repeating what I heard from Rich Jensen, whose business is restoring the things. The 9-volt idea came from him. I've run across the same concern in other places, and apparently Sam has too.

I might be able to believe a couple things at the same time, like (1) it may be a legitimate thing to pay attention to when testing injectors, and (2) it still might be a pretty long-shot explanation of why the OP's car won't start.