2010 Prius - Rear Hub Bearing replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by boochi101, Apr 7, 2016.

  1. boochi101

    boochi101 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    27
    0
    0
    Location:
    South Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Hello All,

    So on my 2010 Prius, I am hearing noise from rear and the dealer said it needs rear right hub and bearing assembly need to be replaced. The cheapest they can do it $600.00. This is one side so will be double the price if it to be replaced both sides.

    I have researched around the OEM part on ebay is around $225. The OEM replacement from TIMKEN at rock auto (TIMKENHA590373{#4245047040}) is about $150 shipped.

    I need some advise on this for the dealer alternative.

    1. Is it some what easy to replace and a simple swap? I saw the video on youtube. I do oil changes on the car and has some experience working on cars on simple things.
    2. If I buy the part can any other repair shop like firestone do the replacement hoping they will charge cheaper?
    3. Is TIMKEN on rockauto a pretty good alternative to OEM Koyo part?

    Thank!!
     
  2. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    37,622
    26,410
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Just a few thoughts, and someone with more smarts/experience will be along shortly. FWIW, I've not done this:

    1. The rear is a lot easier than the front; if you're doing oil changes you can manage this.
    2. Not sure.
    3. IIRC, yes. I believe someone here had the Timken bearing side-by-side with the original, and was seeing similar serial no's, identical appearance.

    Some thoughts:

    Disconnect the 12 volt negative cable, to avoid possibly activating the brakes while the caliper is off the rotor.

    Use a pair of M8x1.25 bolts (say 1" or a bit longer), screwed into the threaded holes on rotors to help in breaking it loose, as needed. It will likely require some work to get them screwed through, due to rust build-up. Just keep screwing it in, then back out, and blow out the loose rust. Eventually they will get through.

    Someone here suggested a method for busting the hub loose, involving a threaded rod and some nuts. There's large openings in the hub face to facilitate this:

    Solved, rear wheel bearing removal, easy way | PriusChat

    At least one member here didn't disconnect the speed sensor plug before trying to break the hub loose, and ended up snapping off the connector. Better disconnect it first.

    When assembling rear brakes, ensure inner pad pin is in between caliper piston face spokes, and firmly seated (do next step right away, to help with this.)

    When everything is reassembled, before reconnecting 12 volt negative cable, do multiple depressions of brake pedal to ensure the hydraulic system has good pressure, to (hopefully) avoid codes being thrown.
     
    Mike Archstone, CR94 and socal13 like this.
  3. eric1234

    eric1234 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jun 8, 2008
    386
    192
    0
    Location:
    Hamden, CT
    Vehicle:
    2016 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I did this, and overall it was not too bad. You can find my comments/posts for more details.

    Take away points:
    1) You can find cheap Chinese hubs for as little as $75 each. I used these, and replaced both hubs. I sold the car shortly thereafter, so I can't speak to the longevity of this repair - but with the price differential (and the experience of changing the defective hub once, it'll only get easier if you have to do it again).

    2) Hub removal was a BEAR. I bought a slide hammer, and I don't think the slide hammer alone would have gotten the hub out. I also had an air hammer to help pry it out. THank goodness for the Air Hammer. The post that Mendel links to above looks genius to me. If I'd seen that, I think it'd have been much easier to remove the hub.

    Hope this helps,
    Eric
     
  4. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    37,622
    26,410
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    Similar to the threaded rod and nut gizmo in in the link, there's a "special tool" in another part of the Repair Manual, looks kind of like a C-clamp, functions similarly. I'll try to find that.

    Ok, here we go:
     
    #4 Mendel Leisk, Apr 7, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 7, 2016
  5. boochi101

    boochi101 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    27
    0
    0
    Location:
    South Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Thanks guys for responses.

    The rear brakes and rotor are replaced recently so the rotor may easily come off.

    The car has 130K miles on it and is driven in South Florida so may not have lot of rust. I guess I will take off the wheel and inspect them before attempting to replace them. Does penetrating oil blast help loosen the hub?

    Thanks!
     
  6. tak1313

    tak1313 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2016
    10
    6
    0
    Location:
    NH
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    When I did my wife's Prius (2010) last year, the biggest problem was the rust seizure - but we live in NH. Usually, these integrated hubs aren't bad at all if there is little/no rust, and should come of with a little persuasion. When I did it, I had to hit it pretty hard with a 2lb sledge, but after a few whacks it gave out (much fewer whacks than it took to do my daughter's 2003 Echo). It's a straight forward process with integrated hubs because there is no pressing, etc. to separate hub and bearing (but also makes it more expensive).

    Go with the Timken - you don't want to do it again because of sub-par parts. When you check it, you may want to check the bolts that hold the hub. Mine was rusted enough that I decided to get new ones from the dealer, and it was not a stocked part, so took a couple of days to get it. You may want to get new bolts regardless just because it's a bolt that takes a lot of stress over time. They're cheap, but I don't remember how much.
     
  7. boochi101

    boochi101 Junior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 18, 2010
    27
    0
    0
    Location:
    South Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Thanks all for the info.

    I am gaining confidence now :)

    I have these further Q's:

    1. Does the Caliper housing including the caliper comes out or the caliper need to be unbolted first and then the caliper housing? If the Caliper housing comes off with caliper then it is good since I don't have to mess up with Brake shoes etc.

    2. What are the bolt head sizes for (1) Caliper housing (2) bearing assembly (3) Rotor removal hole screw (4) wheel nuts

    3. After reading thru the maintenance docs [Thank You to Mendel Leisk], how can I make sure the hub and rotor run out is in limits? I do not have a micrometer gauge.


    TIA.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    37,622
    26,410
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    1. You've got to take off the caliper first, then lift out the pads, then take off the rotor. You might have to take off the caliper support bracket too, for the life of me I can't remember, lol. Just keep everything orgainized, keep the shims on the pad, or if they fall off again, just stay organized, say lay them out on a newspaper. Just be sure to disconnect the 12 volt battery negative lead first, to avoid the system possibly trying to pressurize, while the caliper's off the rotor.

    2. Can't remember off the top of my head, but just have a 10, 12, 14 and maybe 17 and 19, you should be fine. Lug nuts are maybe 21?. I use 13/16". Torque on the lug nuts is 76 lb/ft; always torque in a star pattern* and do the locking nut (if present) last. Also, unless you're using an impact wrench, always partially loosen lug nuts before raising the wheel of the floor, it's easier, and avoids shaking the car when raised.

    3. Taking the rotor off and then re-installing doesn't necessitate a runout check, I wouldn't worry about it. I've read though: it's a good idea to mark the rotor and backing plate, so that you put it back on in the same orientation (it's possible to put it on 5 different ways). Wouldn't hurt. If you're acquiring tools a a dial indicator and magnetic stand is the main tool for check of runout, they're not too much, maybe $40. But yeah, no real need to do it during a bearing change.

    * Watched a Costco employee torguing lug nuts, did not do a star pattern, just went around in order, sad.
     
    #8 Mendel Leisk, Apr 13, 2016
    Last edited: Apr 13, 2016
  9. StarCaller

    StarCaller Senior Member

    Joined:
    Feb 15, 2014
    1,020
    541
    0
    Location:
    Cedar Crest, NM, USA
    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    lug nuts are 21mm/

    BION
    StarCaller
     
  10. tak1313

    tak1313 New Member

    Joined:
    Apr 7, 2016
    10
    6
    0
    Location:
    NH
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Lug nut is 21mm as stated. Caliper and caliper bracket bolts are both 14mm. Threaded hole for assisting with rotor removal is 8mm x 1.25 I believe. It only took a few hits of my hammer to knock it off so I never had to go that route. You don't have to be concerned with being gentle if you're replacing the rotor anyway. If you're reusing then of course dont go the hammer route.

    No sense marking hub/rotor relationship because you're replacing the hub anyway. You MIGHT have a problem with rotor runout if there was a slight relation between the old hub rotor wear, but it's not likely. If there is, just replace the rotors. I personally would use new rotors myself if they are getting worn.

    Dont remember hub bolt head size. I do remember that the torque for the caliper bracket is 42 ft lbs and the pin bolts are 25 ft lbs.
     
  11. ALS

    ALS Active Member

    Joined:
    Jul 15, 2009
    556
    258
    0
    Location:
    Pittsburgh
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Mine was $204 OEM shipped to my door two day delivery, and the Dealer charged me 1.5 hours to put it on or $179 with tax.

    Dealer wanted $326 with sales tax for the rear hub. Had I bought it there it would have cost me $505. I saved $122 buying the part on line.

    I've already had to replace both fronts and the right rear in the last thirty days. :mad: The car only has 58K on the odometer.
     
    Mendel Leisk likes this.
  12. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

    Joined:
    Aug 26, 2010
    4,195
    2,097
    33
    Location:
    Texas
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    Sounds like mine are coming up too. Prius wheel bearings are not magic either. ;) Might just go ahead and do the shock/struts and brakes while I'm at it.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    37,622
    26,410
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    @ALS Sounds like a decent service department, anyway: the labour charge, and that they'll work with your parts purchases.
     
  14. Mike Archstone

    Mike Archstone New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2016
    3
    0
    0
    Location:
    houston
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Can you explain a little bit on how to disconnect the speed sensor. The instruction mentions using a screwdriver to disconnect the speed sensor but I have a hard time to unplug it by screwdriver. Any trick there?

    Thanks.
     
    #14 Mike Archstone, Nov 8, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2016
  15. Mike Archstone

    Mike Archstone New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2016
    3
    0
    0
    Location:
    houston
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Can you explain a little bit on how to disconnect the speed sensor. The instruction mentions using a screwdriver to disconnect the speed sensor but I have a hard time to unplug it by screwdriver. Any trick there?

    Thanks.
     
  16. Jimi1976

    Jimi1976 Active Member

    Joined:
    May 15, 2013
    233
    117
    0
    Location:
    Denver, CO
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    I seem to remember it was just a clip that you need to press on, while pulling connector out. Very easy. A pretty standard type connector.
     
    #16 Jimi1976, Nov 8, 2016
    Last edited: Nov 8, 2016
  17. Mike Archstone

    Mike Archstone New Member

    Joined:
    Nov 8, 2016
    3
    0
    0
    Location:
    houston
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    II
    Thanks for the reply. This afternoon when I worked on it, I didn't see any clip that can be pressed on. But probably I paid attention in using the screwdriver as manual suggests. I will look into it again. Thank you so much.
     
  18. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk 'Orrible Oracle

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    37,622
    26,410
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    All these connectors have some sort of flexible tang you need to press, to release the connector. The problems arise because they tend to be pretty small, and the connectors can a have a bit of corrosion gluing it together. Study it closely see what flexes and how. It may take a pick or small screwdriver to get a good push on it. You can also wiggle the connector first, make sure any corrosion glue is broken.

    I know the problem, these connectors can be maddening, lol. But much better to get it off before hand, if the bearing busts loose with the connector still in place, it may get torn off.
     
  19. Dan05979

    Dan05979 Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2015
    181
    100
    0
    Location:
    New York City/Upstate NY
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    III
    **BIG BUMP**
    Sorry Don't want to start a new thread on this, I'm just going to piggyback on this thread.
    I'm attempting to replace my right rear hub this coming weekend. So far I have a new Timken hub, new rear rotors & pads. I'm going to home depot tomorrow (wednesday) to pick up a nice long heavy bolt, nuts and washers so I can remove the old hub without headache. I will also be soaking it with some liquid wrench spray. I pray this method works. I don't want to be banging and making noise since i have neighbors and it's "frowned upon" working on cars in the lot. I'd like to do this as quickly and quietly as possible since it will be cold too.

    Now from what I've been reading. Disconnect the negative terminal on the battery, after i replace the pads pump the brakes a few times so the brake piston settles to the operating position close to the pads. reconnect the speed sensor wire and battery and I should be good...
    Am i missing anything? Suggestions and tips please!
    Thanks.
     
  20. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 1, 2016
    9,591
    12,975
    0
    Location:
    Bay Area, California
    Vehicle:
    2019 Prius Prime
    Model:
    Prime Plus
    Don’t forget to disconnect the speed sensor first;).

    There is a plastic cover that protects the speed sensor and is clam shell designed. Go slow as it can be a bit fiddly.

    This is a straightforward job and should take about 1.5 hours depending on the level of rust you are dealing with.

    Keep us posted (y).
     
    Dan05979 likes this.
Loading...