2010 shaking in reverse

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by ThatDudeOnChestnut, Aug 12, 2020.

  1. ThatDudeOnChestnut

    ThatDudeOnChestnut New Member

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    May have got in over my head this weekend! 2010 Prius with 160k miles.

    Following NutzAboutBolts videos, I did:

    -drain/fill engine and inverter coolant, drain/fill transmission fluid, cleaned intake manifold/replaced gasket,changed PCV valve,cleaned EGR valve/piping/cooler, replaced spark plugs, and installed an oil catch can

    Started it up, and it seems to run fine in park. When I shift to reverse, the car shakes every ~2 seconds and I hear a mechanical-sounding switching from in front of driver seat. Besides back and forth in driveway, I haven't driven it for fear of damage.

    Plug gaps/torque are good; coolant levels good. Check engine light not on.

    I know I've introduced a ton of variables here…any ideas what to check next?
     
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  2. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    1. Verify you indeed fill all the fluids you took out.

    2. You should just start the car and let it run for 10 minutes in park. Then drive it around the block
     
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  3. ThatDudeOnChestnut

    ThatDudeOnChestnut New Member

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    Thanks JC. Will verify #1. Is the idea on #2 to let the fluids fully circulate before driving?
     
  4. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    Welcome, dude!!

    +1 to what @JC91006 said. Plus ...

    The engine is not propelling the car in reverse. That's the electric motor. So I suspect the transaxle. Are you sure you didn't over fill it? That car needs to be level when you fill it. Since the fill hole is near the back, as I recall, it'll over fill if the front of the car is sloping downhill. Other direction of slope will cause an under fill. Also, it's possible to put in too much even on the level and reinstall the fill plug before the excess runs out.
     
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  5. ThatDudeOnChestnut

    ThatDudeOnChestnut New Member

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    Thanks jerry! Now that you mention it, I did have the car on jackstands near front wheels while filling the transmission fluid. I fed a hose from above so I jacked it to be able to insert the hose into the fill. But I forgot to bring it back down for filling! The fill hole is near the back, so I think I probably underfilled it.
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    agree, sounds like a tranny issue
     
  7. jerrymildred

    jerrymildred Senior Member

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    That may or may not be the source of the problem, but it really needs to be addressed if it's very low (or high).
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    Yeah ideally car should be level when filling transaxle. IIRC fill hole is towards rear, which would lead to underfill with front only raised. I would figure out a way to have it raised AND level, it's not that hard. Having it back on the ground you can't get under there.

    Also, did you use genuine Toyota ATF WS fluid?
     
  9. ThatDudeOnChestnut

    ThatDudeOnChestnut New Member

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    Thank you Mendel-I did use Toyota ATF WS.

    I've got a floor jack,ramps, and 2 jackstands so I'm not sure how to get it raised and level safely. Any suggestions?

    If I can't get it raised AND level, perhaps I can fill while it's on the ground, then jack up the passenger side to give me room to get plug in? I don't think any fluid will come out if I jack on that side but not sure
     
    #9 ThatDudeOnChestnut, Aug 13, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2020
  10. ThatDudeOnChestnut

    ThatDudeOnChestnut New Member

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    Made sure transmission fluid filled while flat. Car ran for about 30 seconds no problem. At ~6s into the video you can hear the rattling, this time in park. I've only run the car for less than a minute for fear of any damage. It doesn't feel safe to let this run like this for 10min but wanted to share in case this sparks any ideas.

    Sounds at the end of the video are mostly from the car but some from me getting in to turn it off.

     
    #10 ThatDudeOnChestnut, Aug 13, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 13, 2020
  11. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    That rattle sound usually happens in the morning when the car is first started, when this symptom occurs, many times there's a bad head gasket causing this issue. I can't remember ever seeing a car start up for a few seconds and then develop this rattle.

    There is a TSB on the EGR valve where Toyota would replace it if there's a rattle (I can't remember the exact language). I had mine replaced when I showed the dealership the video of a similar rattling in my car during start up. After the EGR valve replacement I didn't get the rattle for 20k miles.....and then it somehow came back briefly.
     
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  12. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yeah, it's the reverse that is throwing us off the scent
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    That's as easy as falling off a log:

    1. Run front up onto ramps.

    2. Raise rear with floor jack (at the rear/centre jacking point), untll a level placed on underside indicates slight rear-to-front down-slope. The rear jack point is up kinda high: if your floor jack doesn't have much reach you may need to put a piece or two of plywood under the floor jack, to shim it up. You can also put a bit of packing in the cradle, but don't overdo it; keep it stable.

    3. Place jackstands at rear scissor jack locations (there is better place, but it'll do), extend them as close to the bearing points as practical, then settle rear of car onto the safety stands. Go slow as you do that.

    4. You should end up close to level.
     
    #13 Mendel Leisk, Aug 14, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 14, 2020
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  14. ThatDudeOnChestnut

    ThatDudeOnChestnut New Member

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    Fair enough! First time posting and I can't figure out how/if thread titles can be changed so I've asked the moderator to.

    I've posted this info over in a FB group:

    car makes rough rattling/knocking sound upon startup now, not just in reverse; engine shaking. Only code I am getting is P3191. Haven't run for more than 1min at a time due to fear of damage.

    Things I've checked so far:
    -plug gaps/torque good
    -coolants and transmission levels good
    -disconnected oil catch can and reinstalled PCV to IM hose
    -cleaned MAP and MAF sensors with MAF cleaner
    -EGR valve plunger moves freely (I did clean upon initial disassembly but perhaps other side still has gunk and not able to close completely)

    I'm in the process of disassembly again to change throttle body gasket. Upon doing so I noticed I had not put the hose from the throttle body to the air filter box on well, so I may have had a leak. So I'll give it a go after reassembly and update.

    I appreciate all the inputs!
     
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  15. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    sounds like you're on the right track
     
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  16. ThatDudeOnChestnut

    ThatDudeOnChestnut New Member

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    UPDATE: Up and running! After tearing it down, there were a few potential culprits:
    -the bellow to the throttle body was not on all the way, and seated somewhat crooked
    -one of the bolts connecting EGR piping to valve was not tightened all the way
    -I replaced the throttle and EGR to IM gaskets. I had replaced the IM gasket itself originally

    Ran it for 10min in maintenance mode; during this 10min it had a few moments of rough idling (assuming this is clearing out any vapors from cleaners used and coolant filling in pockets?)

    Just got back from a few mile drive (in regular mode). The only problem I'm noticing now is that it seems to hesitate and maybe run a little rough at around 15mph when accelerating. No codes being thrown.

    Thank you all for the guidance and if you've got any ideas on the current issue I'd be grateful!
     
    #16 ThatDudeOnChestnut, Aug 22, 2020
    Last edited: Aug 22, 2020
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