1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

2011 3rd Gen Won't Start after ABS Actuator and Accumulator Replacement

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Technical Discussion' started by skufro, Jul 29, 2023.

  1. skufro

    skufro New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2023
    3
    1
    0
    Location:
    Virginia
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    Just replaced my 2011, 3rd Gen Actuator and Accumulator. Completed the Brake bleed without Techstream using the 4th & 13th pin jump procedure. Ran into some issues with the 12V battery and replaced it. Problem is the car will not start. All lights on dash seem normal and there are no error codes presently. Brake switch is working. Pressing brake produces a green light on the Power button, but no joy starting. I'm at a loss on what to do next. Does the Techstream reset or recalibrate something that will allow it to start?
     
  2. Tombukt2

    Tombukt2 Senior Member

    Joined:
    Nov 29, 2020
    8,677
    1,521
    0
    Location:
    Durham NC
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    When you say won't start you mean the gas engine doesn't start or you can't get in ready mode and move forward and or backwards?
     
  3. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2018
    6,010
    3,230
    0
    Location:
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    You need to go over EVERY connector and make sure you plugged them in
    correctly. It's common to miss one.

    Does it go into "ready"? Or does the engine not run?

     
  4. Brian1954

    Brian1954 Active Member

    Joined:
    Jan 31, 2021
    753
    288
    0
    Location:
    South Central PA, USA
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Where did you find that you can bleed the brakes by jumping the 4th and 13th pin???????? That will NOT work to bleed the brakes!!!

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  5. skufro

    skufro New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2023
    3
    1
    0
    Location:
    Virginia
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
    Ok - here's the update. It was not going into READY on the dash. Last ditch effort I checked the voltage on the new 12V battery and it was 8.5V. After charging the new battery I was able to get the system to go into READY and actually start the vehicle. In other words I was able to put it in gear and move it. So overall, big success getting the new ABS system parts installed, brakes bled and up and running.
     
    ASRDogman likes this.
  6. skufro

    skufro New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 29, 2023
    3
    1
    0
    Location:
    Virginia
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    ----USA----
     
  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 29, 2018
    6,010
    3,230
    0
    Location:
    Florida
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    Did you install the new battery, then bleed the brake system? If so, you probably drained the battery.

    It's always a good idea to charge a "new" battery. No matter what vehicle it's for.
    But for the Prius, it's vital!

    Glad all is working for you!

     
    skufro likes this.
  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 30, 2008
    23,572
    15,285
    0
    Location:
    Indiana, USA
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    IV
    Someone on YouTube completely made that up, and that illustrates the problem with getting info from random YouTube sites. Many of us here are familiar with what all of those steps do, and none of them are doing what you think.

    First, there is such a thing as ECB Invalid Mode, and there is both a Techstream and a non-Techstream way to get there, but "Jump pins 4 & 13" is not how you do it. The non-Techstream invalid mode process involves pushing the brake pedal so many times in N, so many times in P, and so many times in N again. Yes, it shows a blinking ECB light when you do it right.

    Second, ECB invalid mode is not enough for fully bleeding the brakes. It is enough for doing a fluid replacement on an intact system with no air in it, where you just add new fluid while letting old out, and you never get any air in. If air gets in, you need to bleed, which requires more than invalid mode.

    So what does "Jump pins 4 & 13" do? It puts some ECUs (the one for the brakes, and a few others) into a special mode to blink out their trouble codes on their usual warning lights. You can find all the low-down on that here:

    Blink (a/k/a Flash) Codes – How to. | PriusChat

    When you placed that jumper and turned the car on, the light blinked because it was telling you about its codes, not because you were in invalid mode, which you weren't.

    The 8 pedal presses while you were in the code blink mode? All that does is make the current trouble codes get forgotten. Also described on the page linked above.

    The bleeding you did, you can kind of get away with on the rears. Not so for the fronts. There are separate brake fluid circuits within the actuator for the front brakes, and without being in the actual bleed mode (not just invalid) where the computer opens the right valves for you, all the air doesn't get out. Use your favorite vacuum or pressure bleeder or click your heels three times and chant, or whatever, if the valves are closed the air stays put.

    There are a lot of threads here where you can learn how brake bleeding on your Prius can be properly done.
     
    #8 ChapmanF, Jul 30, 2023
    Last edited: Jul 31, 2023
    Brian1954 likes this.