2012 bought with 157k miles

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by AW82, Mar 25, 2021.

  1. mikey_t

    mikey_t Active Member

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    What does that refer to?
     
  2. AW82

    AW82 Member

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  3. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    So I'm noticing that the hybrid system indicator is slow to respond when accelerating. The speedometer responds instantly but the HSI power meter thing is like a second delay before it responds. Once moving, it responds pretty instantaneously to changes in go pedal inputs. Until I stop, then it has a one second delay when I accelerate again. Is this normal? Sort of annoying.
     
  4. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Maintenance required light came on recently at about 160,000 miles, which tells me either the dealer I bought it from didn't change the oil (making it 5,000 miles old or ~16 months per the Carfax I bought) or they didn't reset the maintenance reminder. So I pulled a sample from the dipstick to send off to Blackstone (the oil was pretty dark), ran a can of BG EPR for 20 minutes, then changed the oil with 0w20 Pennzoil Platinum and an OEM filter. The drain bolt and filter cap were both really hard to get off. The drain bolt, once loose, turned easily until it was about halfway out, then got a bit "stiff" again. Maybe it was funk from the EPR flush on the threads? It went in a bit stiff as well. I was careful in case there was some past cross-threading that happened. So far no leaks so hopefully I'm good.

    I've checked the oil every week or two in the ~3,000 miles I've driven the car and it didn't budge a hair. So either it's consuming no oil at all....or it has an equal amount of fuel dilution! Blackstone will let me know.
     
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  5. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Oh, and I forgot to mention that I've gotten 52 mpg over the last 2,000 miles, per the trip computer :)
     
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  6. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    WOW. I think I've got a keeper!

    Blackstone.png
     
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  7. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    The threads on your drain plug are damaged by someone overtightening it in the past (+1 to using a torque wrench!).
    Just get a new drain plug with washer and swap it out the next time you change the oil. Usually the threads in the oil pan fair better than the drain plug.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  8. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    Been trying to honored by him for years now.....

    Great job with the preventative maintenance!
    Are you going to keep changing the oil at 10K or club down to 5?
    (FWIW, I wouldn't start using high mileage blend until your burn rate warrants it.)

    I don't recall reading what your transaxle fluid change plans are.....(were.)
    Thoughts?

    Good Luck with the car!
     
    #88 ETC(SS), Aug 4, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 4, 2021
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Second this. It swells seals, a last-ditch tactic with a terminal oil-burner.
     
  10. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Thanks! So this was I think 5k interval. The car appears to have had 5k intervals for most of its life (this was the first time I changed the oil). I plan to stick with 5k and with regular sythetic (not high mileage).

    I do plan to change the transaxle and both coolants. I was planning to DIY but after working under such a low-to-the-ground car, I'm thinking about just paying my local non-dealer hybrid specialist to do it.
     
  11. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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  12. Colorado Boo

    Colorado Boo Member

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    Thats' great mileage for an old girl! My new Prius computer said I got 61 mpg but I checked the actual mileage with the amount of gas I put in I got 65 mpg so check it both ways.
     
  13. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    No doubt I CAN do it myself. I'm just not sure I want to roll around on my rough/cracked driveway and spill transmission fluid all over the place, which seems to happen no matter how cautious I am :D
     
  14. privilege

    privilege Active Member

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    my guess is it doesn't have rotational data until the car is moving, so it can't assign a "efficient x percent" until moving.

    then once you're moving, it can react on the dash
     
  15. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    The hardest part is getting the car in the air, and level, with jacks and jack stands.
    And remove the FILLER plug FIRST! Then the drain, remove the last few threads slowly,
    and hold the pan close and you shouldn't spill but a few drops.
    Fill it from the top with a hose from the top of the engine compartment into the filler hole.
    Then a funnel at the top and pour SLOWLY! It will fill slowly, and take 3.5 - 4 quarts.
    Throw a towell down or piece of plywood... :)

     
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  16. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

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    :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
     
  17. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sand Pounder

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    Both transaxle fill and drain bolts are socket head cap screw style, take a male 10 mm hex driver (Allen-key style). You can get ratchet wrench sockets in that style; Stanley for one makes them. A long handled wrench or breaker bar makes it easy to break them loose. Torque is only 29 foot pounds, but they get kind of stuck on.

    attachment is from Repair Manual, pretty basic info.

    also, Toyota cautions to only use Toyota ATF WS, from freshly opened bottles.

    for jack stand locations, and jacking points, see the oil change link in my signature*. I use alternate jack stand support points, not the points proscribed for the scissor jack.

    * If on a phone, turn it to landscape orientation and sigs should show.
     
    #97 Mendel Leisk, Aug 5, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 5, 2021
  18. AW82

    AW82 Member

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    Maybe jacking only the front end (with jackstands) is at least a partial contributor to my messy oil change. Lifting all four corners might help.

    I'm a bit klutzy. I haven't really ever botched a car repair or service in the 20ish years I've done them, but I always end up covered in oil or with bloody knuckles :D I'm old enough now to choose my battles.
     
  19. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    The tranmission needs to be level to fully empty and fill, correctly.
     
  20. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    Sounds like your drain bolt or the oil pan has been partially stripped.

    The drain pan on my BMW stripped and I had to cut new threads, but it worked out ok. To avoid, one solution is to purchase a Fumoto valve. You screw it in once and then just open a valve to change your oil. I fit a 6” tube over the valve and drain directly into a milk jug, so it’s directly ready for oil recycling.
     
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