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2012 Prius V or 2010 Prius same price

Discussion in 'Newbie Forum' started by T-RIVERS, May 31, 2023.

  1. T-RIVERS

    T-RIVERS New Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2023
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    Location:
    Two Rivers Wi
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Three Touring
    I'm looking at either or. The Prius V has 198k miles fully loaded, 7 day/700 mile warranty, lifetime oil changes. The Prius has 142k miles a little rusty on the dipstick and in the oil (although the oil looks clean). Which way would you go?
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

    Joined:
    May 11, 2005
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    Location:
    boston
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius Plug-in
    Model:
    Plug-in Base
    the other way :p
     
  3. T-RIVERS

    T-RIVERS New Member

    Joined:
    May 24, 2023
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    Location:
    Two Rivers Wi
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    Three Touring
    So the dealer gave me $3500 for my 09 Touring (198k), $2500 for my 07 (242k). I decided on the Prius V. I got home and started looking more in depth at it. The air filter is old. You cannot see daylight thru it. The cabin filter was disgusting. You couldn't see daylight thru that either. But the highlight was the radiator fill container that spewed copper residue. It looks like this dealer is hiding a quick fix or maybe the head gasket was replaced, the radiator not flushed. Hmm?
     
  4. Kev88

    Kev88 New Member

    Joined:
    Jul 8, 2023
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    Location:
    Ohio
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    Do you think the Prius's on FB Marketplace are overall, in general,....can you find a good Pius that you can expect a few years out of.
    I bought a 2010. Keep reading and watching where maintenance is expected in a sense, I don't know yet, and it can be expensive. I paid $5,500 for my winter grey Prius 2 weeks ago.
    Still getting used to it. Read about EGR, pcv, catch can, battery fan, battery itself, did I buy a money pit at 198k miles?
     
  5. Tim Jones

    Tim Jones Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 17, 2018
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    Location:
    SE Texas
    Vehicle:
    2011 Nissan LEAF
    Model:
    ----USA----
    You're going to have a lot of problems...................
     
    #3 Tim Jones, Jul 26, 2023
    Last edited by a moderator: Jul 26, 2023
  6. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

    Joined:
    Jun 6, 2008
    7,566
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    Location:
    Texas Hill Country
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Three
    Start saving $10k for unexpected repairs.

    It is a bad design engine. The engine burns oil and has excessive liquid build up in the intake manifold. Flawed piston ring design was updated in mid 2014. Oil / condensate mix in the intake along with blowby fed to the cylinders via the egr creates carbon and preignition. Egr intake is before the cat on these years; gen4 egr intake is after the cat and therefore much cleaner. Thermal cycling is also a problem for the cylinders due to stop start and poor coolant passage design. Cylinder insulators and revised coolant passages remedied uneven temps in gen4.

    Generally these factors create a minor head warpage that allows the coolant into the cylinder, particularly after a complete cool off. The coolant may or may not temporarily foul the plug. At first the engine heats up and stops the coolant loss before it is really noticeable except for startup rattling. The plug starts firing and the engine runs fine, typically for the rest of the day. People incorrectly think it is plugs, coils, injectors or clogged egr, even though it runs fine after a few seconds, wasting time and money. Heads must be machined with a head gasket job.

    Occasionally the startup rattling and short duration coolant fouling may bend the connecting rod slightly. This is often unnoticed during a head gasket job, leading to a second failure a few miles later when the rod goes. Or the rattling is masked with a sealer allowing more time for the bent rod to break.

    The damper is just that, a short term slippage mechanism when the engine rpms are not exactly matched by the electric motors through the planetary gears. This slippage is the startup rattling you hear. There is no mechanical disconnect like you get with a clutch or torque converter.

    The best solution to keep a 2010-2014 Prius running long term after a head gasket fail is to rebuild a used engine with revised pistons and rings, remachine the head, clean the egr cooler and then change oil after 5k miles rather than 10k.

    By the way, a later model spin on oil filter housing will bolt on. A high quality oil catch can with sintered bronze filter is recommended on the pcv line but only if the owner can be counted on to empty it. The pcv intake was also revised on gen4.

    Bottom line: This engine is a bad design starting with low tension rings, a bad egr design, a poor cylinder coolant strategy, a pcv intake too low on the block, 40f thermal cycling many times during a drive cycle particularly in stop and go or when excessively "idling", aggravated by the parts cannon and block sealers
     
    Tim Jones likes this.