1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

2013 Custom PCV Valve Relocation with OCC Mod along with other Maintenance

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Accessories and Modifications' started by James Analytic, Sep 25, 2020.

  1. James Analytic

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2019
    160
    26
    3
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    Thinking I'm going to do a custom modification to run the PCV valve up in between the valve cover and coolant tank somewhere on the line going into the OCC. Found a Youtube video regarding also:


    Only found commented in the priuschat on a Gen2 Main Forum post and no reports of performing:
    After how many miles will a Prius typically stay reliable? | Page 5 | PriusChat

    Any verification from a Gen 3 or later Prius owner with the mod or how the design is on the later Gen's? After watching a repair video I see now the Gen 2's have as typical the PCV valve on the valve cover.

    Thinking while at the OCC mod and working on the Wiper motor repair if not replacement if the causation... will inspect and if needed clean the EGR circuit, Manifold, Intake, Sensors, Plugs and first and foremost read and watch videos about what all is where while at it. Thinking can use the stock PCV valve, drilled maybe out, as the adapter for the line going to the new PCV valve relocated unless for some reason I need a larger hose.

    Any thoughts regarding mod or maintenance to perform while all is disassembled and easier access to?

    At 220K I'm starting to get that cold engine rattling noise a little during certain acceleration events I'm not confident what those detailed exact events are just yet. Goes away if I accelerate slower or faster. Seems like an ECO mode MG change range in ECO. No error codes however.

    Thinking definitely time to disassemble and inspect the easy to get to intake related parts to clean and inspect for starters. I do need a new air filter also as the dealership noted, as of until recently they performed all maintenance other than tires at Discount Tires this last change, the rear brake pads I replaced since the passenger side lower caliper pin seized unfortunately and two oil changes I performed until this last one since is more cost effective to have them perform and am going through roughly 500ml oil per 4K looks like. Regular routine maintenance (Oil, one transmission flush/change, topped once the coolant tanks, topped once the brake fluid, few lights, few wiper blades, on the third set of tires, recall work or warranty work, new bumper guard yet to be installed, new driver side running/turn signal yet to be installed) and has been a champ. My super hyper miling motor home for a period also doing advocacy work at certain Universities and Base communities. Really impressive vehicle. I want the drivetrain in my 2001 Dodge Ram somehow easiest and want to make an engine welder/plasma cutter out of a MG one of these days also... though most likely with a garden tractor engine. B^|)
     
  2. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

    Joined:
    Mar 3, 2012
    10,775
    4,372
    0
    Location:
    Pacific Northwest, USA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    I don't understand the reasoning for putting the PCV elsewhere?

    And you do know that this is normal behavior for Prius when the engine is cold?

    Assuming you did a compression test and head gasket is still good:

    IF you want to get in there and make a difference, buy an intake manifold gasket and pull the manifold and do a thorough cleaning and inspecting. That's where the problem is...

    There's also aftermarket throttle body / intake systems you can buy from Japanese websites that will boost overall power by a small amount.
     
    James Analytic likes this.
  3. Grit

    Grit Senior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 22, 2017
    6,103
    4,032
    1
    Location:
    Wilkes Land
    Vehicle:
    2012 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    Get a leak down head gasket test. If it’s blown, whatever parts you throw or swap, you got the shakes for life.
     
    James Analytic likes this.
  4. James Analytic

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2019
    160
    26
    3
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    I'm under the impression of I observe oil is getting into the intake and leaving residue in the air/fuel circuit path. The PCV relocation is for easier future inspection and cleaning or replacement. Might extend valve life also?

    On my mind, can use the affirmation. Appreciate that.

    Didn't know about aftermarket parts other than the hypermiling mods, i.e. rear wheel fairings, lower drag bumper guard and lower drag rear view mirrors. I do recall some using the engines for aircraft with performance mods. I'm mainly looking for better fuel economy. Seems some intakes like on the 360, I think the Hughes, can do both or at least claim to. I'll read into for the this engine.
     
  5. James Analytic

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2019
    160
    26
    3
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    I sure hope not... though reads like that can be an issue on the 2012 and earlier Gen3's. Guessing after a certain mileage on the 2013 and later Gen's years also. I'll plan to perform when working on the spark plugs since I do have the tools to perform a leak down and compression test. Will do, thanks for the affirmation.

    Interesting watching a Youtube video or two of people using some sort of additive in the coolant with the thermost removed to seal. Scary, though appears to be effective if required.
     
  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    54,474
    38,106
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    At 220k miles I'd skip "clean the EGR if needed": it's needed.

    Best way to assess head gasket is leak-down test.

    Save yourself further grief: don't use stop-leak products.

    Concentrate on the above, immediate issues; leave OCC and PCV valve replumb to later. The latter seems kinda pointless to me.
     
    #6 Mendel Leisk, Sep 25, 2020
    Last edited: Sep 25, 2020
    scona, Grit and James Analytic like this.
  7. James Analytic

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2019
    160
    26
    3
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    PCV Valve came in the mail today and I'm thinking after inspecting... the rim is pressed around for the stop for the valve seat. This rim can either be cut, ground or drilled out to get the inside mechanism out. Then, once removed, I can just use the old PCV Valve as the hose adapter for the PCV Valve relocation design using 3/8" fuel rated PCV tubing, 3/8" nipple to female M16-1.5, and the new PCV Valve with 3/8" hose to the OCC.

    IMG2084.jpg

    Was hoping to find some fuel line rated 3/8" Tygon tubing... though not able to find locally or online. Thinking will be even easier to inspect using and less likely to dissolve. Now to find the sleeve heat shield material like the other hoses in the car have. Wondering about a trip to the salvage yard to find some OEM stock.

    E-Torx Craftsman 1/4" socket and Fel-Pro intake manifold gasket set came in the mail on the 5th. Interesting the extra guard on the one round gasket that I didn't observe on the OEM. Anyone use this metal guard before or remove and if used any observations upon later maintenance?

    I also invested in a 5 piece Husky metric ratcheting wrench set that was on sale at Homedepot for ~$16 out the door.

    For the PCV Valve relocation; O'Reilly's has a female M16-1.5 to 3/8" nipple for the adapter from the fuel line to the PCV Valve location to the PCV Valve. Plus they give $10 for auto batteries in a gift card and I happen to have an old used car battery. Looks like Menards and Walmart do similar for riding lawn mower and smaller electric start machines lead acid batteries also.

    Planning to add a filter into the circuit somehow at the end of the new rubber before the intake also to be safe. The 325 mesh stainless steel screen was the thought maybe punching some larger holes in a grid pattern with a sewing needle as well as maybe adding a copper scouring pad into the OCC potentially... still not locked in on as the plan though. I guess not being stock rubber hose... I do worry a little. Maybe I can add at the output of the OCC in the can also. I'm even wondering about oil contamination from the brass somewhat.

    The OCC is supposed to be in October 13... though planning to perform the work by the 10th and will just pipe (hose) for the OCC install when arrives.
     
    #7 James Analytic, Oct 8, 2020
    Last edited: Oct 8, 2020
  8. James Analytic

    Joined:
    Jun 14, 2019
    160
    26
    3
    Location:
    Michigan
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
  9. skydivetoday

    skydivetoday Junior Member

    Joined:
    Dec 1, 2018
    25
    8
    0
    Location:
    Marco Island , FL
    Vehicle:
    2014 Prius v wagon
    Model:
    Three
    James, great write up.
    I did the occ and pvc relocation along with intake cleaning with new gasket on the same day that I changed the ecvt, brake and both coolant fuilds. At 50,000 miles with no oil use at 5,000 oil changes.

    The pvc relocation makes a lot of sense to me. I tested the occ by listening for air sound when I turn the occ dip stick back. At 800 miles no oil in occ. I plan on doing this cleaning and fuild change again at 100,000 miles along with plugs. I replaced the pvc but the old one was good. This 2014 prius v is turning into my favorite car to work on.
     
    ColonPrius and James Analytic like this.
  10. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    7,842
    3,099
    0
    Location:
    Honolulu, HI
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    I'm also going to be relocating our PCV valve, while installing (an) oil catch can(s). I haven't decided whether to do a single or dual catchcan setup yet.

    Can anyone who's done the PCV valve relocation mod chime in? It sounds like the post above may indicate that a single catch can is enough.

    Also picked up an EGR cooler off eBay so I can preclean it before doing the EGR circuit, intake, and throttle body cleaning, on our Prius with 130k+ miles on the odometer. 20210722_094135.jpeg 20210722_094032.jpeg

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  11. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    54,474
    38,106
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    I have dual Moroso 85474 air-oil separators, plumbed in series under the intake. I empty them spring and fall, in conjunction with oil changes. We’re only doing maybe 4K kms yearly now. Spring drain, I’ll get around 40 cc out of the first can, and 70~80 from the second. The first is maybe 50/50 oil and water, the second roughly 20/80 (mostly water). PCV location is stock.

    fall drain I get maybe 20~30 cc out of first, next to nothing out of second.
     
    #12 Mendel Leisk, Jul 23, 2021
    Last edited: Jul 23, 2021
    xliderider likes this.
  12. xliderider

    xliderider Senior Member

    Joined:
    Apr 19, 2012
    7,842
    3,099
    0
    Location:
    Honolulu, HI
    Vehicle:
    2011 Prius
    Model:
    Three
    How has the throttle body been regarding the usual puddle of oil that accumulates there?

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
  13. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

    Joined:
    Oct 17, 2010
    54,474
    38,106
    80
    Location:
    Greater Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada
    Vehicle:
    2010 Prius
    Model:
    Touring
    In the intake below throttle body? I’d say markedly reduced accumulation of sludge, but not totally eliminated.
     
    xliderider likes this.