2013 Prius C One Car Audio Project

Discussion in 'Prius c Audio and Electronics' started by Presley Becker, Jun 11, 2020.

  1. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    Hello all,

    I’ve got a 2013 Prius C One. The only thing I’ve done is add the Rostra cruise control kit. The next project I want to tackle is the car audio. There’s a lot of great information out there, but I figured I would document the process for my car. These cars vary and can come up with really specific issues, so there’s no way to have a one stop shop for ALL Prius C’s. You can’t even do all 2013 Prius C’s. My goal for this is to create that for the 2013 Prius C One. And then any help I get along the way is greatly appreciated. Below, I will highlight the steps I would like to take.

    1. Set specific end goals. What features do I want to retain. What features am I willing to sacrifice.
    2. Read through the forums already out there to find out what is known and not known about what’s feasible. What roadblocks or complications can I expect.
    3. Based on the specific goals and expectations for what’s possible, put together a complete parts list.
    4. Going back to step 2, figure out what I’m willing to do myself and what I want to have professionally done.
    5. Create a timeline of events for completion and execute.
    6. Evaluate results. Document all lessons learned. If rework is required, go back to step 1.
    I will complete step 1 tonight and post it on here. Hopefully this can provide value to someone like me who wants a quality sound system and doesn’t want to get worked by a car audio shop.

    Thanks for your time!
     
  2. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    Step 1: Set specific end goals. What features do I want to retain. What features am I willing to sacrifice.

    Goals:
    1. High quality sound throughout vehicle with good balancing. Subwoofer is required, but nothing earth shattering. Looking to feel the bass, not shake the neighborhood. This will be a full system rebuild, with new speakers, tweeters, sub, amp, and head unit.
    2. Apple CarPlay. Wireless is not needed, but would be willing to pay a little more for the feature if it’s reasonable.
    3. Sounds obvious, but reliable wiring. I owned a 2001 corvette with faulty wiring, and it ended up draining the battery. If I don’t feel confident about performing a step I want to have it professionally done.
    4. No budget is set because I do not have proper knowledge of what parts are required to have a full reliable system. I’m willing to pay a premium if I know it’s worth it. That being said, I’m not willing to blindly pay a car audio shop whatever they are asking without doing my proper research.
    Features I would like to retain:
    1. Steering wheel controls is the only thing I’m aware of that connects to the head unit for the 2013 Prius C One’s. I would like to keep this. If something else comes up, I will re-evaluate this step.
    Features I’m willing to sacrifice:
    1. I would be willing to sacrifice 1/4 of the rear cargo space.
    2. Antenna. I can’t remember the last time I listened to the radio. If it doesn’t come built into the head unit, I’m not interested in buying an adapter.

    TLDR: The end goal is to create a full system rebuild and maintain all of the stock controls. Sacrificing minimal cargo space if needed.
     
  3. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Welcome & congrats.

    Shouldn't be too hard- the c lends itself well to aftermarket audio installation. I did a head unit & all-speakers replacement in our 2018 two. The only difference between our results and your goals:
    1. We didn't need/want a subwoofer, unwilling to sacrifice any cargo space.
    2. We gave up the analog line input (not sure if your 2013 has one but our 2018 did)
    A few notes-

    I'm not positive, but I think a One has fewer speakers in it than the Two & up. You might only have them in the front doors. I'm certain your rear doors are stamped with positions to mount speakers, but I don't think there are speakers installed. What to check: are they wired for speakers? Does the interior trim have a speaker grille? I doubt they used a different door panel for the One but you never know.

    Retaining steering wheel controls is easy. Really easy. It's an extra expense because you have to buy a little box that translates the signals from the Toyota wiring to some other communications standard which is dependent on your choice of replacement head unit. But the bottom line is that it's a $100ish box + cable harness that just works, and most of the effort is in physically mounting it someplace where it won't rattle. I used doublesided tape and tie wraps to attach ours to the belly of the new head unit.

    You aren't likely to need to give up the antenna. You might save a few bucks by not buying the cable adapter to interface the stock antenna to a generic antenna input on a replacement deck, but that's up to you. I can't say we use the radio often in ours but I do like having it for bad weather situations when I might not have cell network availability.

    Good luck!
     
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  4. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    Thanks for your reply. I appreciate you taking the time.
    Do you have part numbers for everything you used?
     
  5. wigmann

    wigmann Junior Member

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    I installed the system from OEM audio plus. it is a custom system with carbon fiber speakers and a small but good sub. also you get to keep your current head unit.
     
  6. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    1. Sony XAV-AX100
    2. Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adapter
    3. Metra 70-1761 Receiver Wiring Harness
    4. Metra 95-8259B Dash Kit
    5. Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter
    6. Metra AX-TOY28SWC Steering Wheel Control Harness
    7. Metra AX-TOYUSB USB Port Cable
    8. Axxess AX-HYKIACAM2-6V Backup Camera Harness
    9. Infinity Reference REF-375tx
    10. Infinity Reference REF-6532ex (x2 for front and rear)
    11. Metra 72-8104 Speaker Wiring Harnesses x4
    12. Metra 82-8148 Speaker Mounting Brackets x4
    Okay, number 6 probably won't apply to your car. I gather that they didn't have the big 28 pin connector back then, so there is likely a different cable. This is what you use to bridge the ASWC-1 to your car. 7 & 8 don't really have equivalents because I don't think the 2013 had a USB port on the dash anywhere, and didn't have the rear vision cameras.

    I strongly recommend that you visit crutchfield.com and use their compatibility checker. They sold me the gear above and the project went well.
     
  7. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    One of the biggest things for me is Apple CarPlay, so I’m going to be replacing the head unit. However, eventually I’ll want to add a sub box. Few questions for you in that regard.

    1. What year and model Prius do you have?
    2. How does the sub sound?
    3. Do you have pictures of the sub placement?
    I reached out to OEM Audio to see if they had a kit for the 2013 Prius C, because their website only states 2016 and up. So we’ll see. I wouldn’t mind picking their sub up as opposed to going to a shop and having them custom fabricate one.

    Thank!
     
  8. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    @Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    I’ve decided to just install the head unit for now and then expand once I’ve gotten my knowledge about amps/speakers/DSP’s/Subs up. But here’s my parts list that I ordered from Crutchfield. Total came out to $344.67.

    1. Sony XAV-AX1000
    2. Metra 40-LX11 Antenna Adapter
    3. Metra 70-1761 Receiver Wiring Harness
    4. Scosche TA2114B Dash Kit
    5. Axxess ASWC-1 Steering Wheel Control Adapter
    6. Metra AX-TOY28SWC Steering Wheel Control Harness
    7. Metra ISOPK Screw Pack
    I think maybe because the head unit already has a USB on the front it didn’t offer any USB adapter. The 2013 Prius C does have a USB port on the passenger side dash. I’ll figure out what to do with that later, but just wanted to order the parts for now.

    Concerns I have.
    1. Wire splicing. Crutchfield didn't offer their quick install service, so I'll have to splice the wires somehow. I'll probably solder them, I just hope that the instructions are clear enough for me to understand.
    2. This is my first time ordering anything from Crutchfield, so I'm just trusting that this is EVERYTHING I need. I just hope a small little part or adapter doesn't come up that I didn't think to buy.
    These parts should be here Wednesday (Jun 17th, 2020), and I will begin the install immediately upon receiving them. Every single part of the process will be documented and photographed. I'll figure out how the best way to display that information, but I fully intend on making it much simpler for the next person trying to do this project.
     
  9. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Good start! The splice work can look intimidating just because there are many wires, but it's really not hard, just a bit tedious.

    Post up if you're unsure of any, but you should be fine between the Sony manual and the Crutchfield docs.
     
  10. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Leadfoot, you are the only one who in simple words have explained what needs to be done in order to get the steering wheel buttons to work with an aftermarket head unit. Most posts just said things like, "It's easy", or "It takes time". You are the only one who said what you have to buy, how hard it was, the cost and where to mount it!! That is what I have been waiting to read!!. The wheel functions is what sold me on the Pruis and I don't want to lose that ability. Right now, I use my stock head unit with my Samsung tablet on a tablet mount. But, should I take the leap, I now know that I will have to invest in a $100ish box plus the head unit.
    Thank You!
     
  11. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Glad I could help. To be fair it wasn't always like this. The industry has been trying to produce a universal translator box for years, and they've mostly succeeded, but it has taken a lot of effort. Once upon a time, the buyer had to program their box for "toyota input" x "Alpine output" for example. More recently the manufacturers have started pre-setting portions of their stock, so it's easy for Crutchfield or the like to sell you one already preconfigured for what you've got.

    It is still possible to buy the unprogrammed simple versions of the same equipment and have a miserable ol' time dealing with it, if you're metal enough.
     
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  12. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Now I get it. Again, now you are making sense of the years of stuff I have read. The older versions you had to program to know what unit/car you had, now, you can buy it pre-programmed for you specific car. Makes sense. This will now definitely be my next mod. For now, my stock unit syncs with my Samsung tablet and wheel configurations with ease. When the head unit goes out, I will switch. Who knows, by then, there will probably be a head unit with built-in steering wheel configurations per car.
     
  13. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    2013 Prius C One Head Unit Replacement
    This is going to be a pretty robust post. If you've got the same car, just bear with me, follow the steps, and you'll get through it.

    Parts list from Crutchfield

    Parts List.jpg

    Others
    1. Soldering kit with wire. Just make sure you have at least a foot of electrical soldering wire. You're not going to use a foot, but just to be safe.
    2. Heat shrink tubing. I recommend going to amazon and getting a kit that has a variety of different sizes. It's a lot cheaper than trying to find the perfect size for this application (there are 2 sizes for this job), AND you'll have extra for different jobs.
    3. Heat gun/hair dryer. Self-explanatory. I bought a heat gun, but I'm sure you could make due with a hair dryer.
    4. Small twist on connectors. Buy at least a 30 pack.
    5. Wire cutter/stripper combo
    6. Electrical Tape
    7. 6 inch screwdriver
    8. Anything small and flat to take off the stereo trim.

    Step 1: Remove the factory head unit. I didn't take pictures of this because it's extremely self explanatory. Just pop the trim surrounding the head unit off. Make sure you unplug the hazard light button. There are 4 screws holding the stereo in place, which is why you'll want a 6 inch screwdriver. Try to save the screws just in case. Pull the stereo out and unplug the connectors from the back, it's very simple. But at this point you can put the old unit up for sale. You need nothing from it.

    Step 2: Know the connectors behind the head unit. Note: the USB connector does not have an adapter to connect to the Sony head unit. If there's a way to make it work I am not aware of it, so at this time the USB on the passenger side does not do anything.

    Behind Head Unit.jpg

    Step 3: Start making connections. Before you get started, I want to give one piece of advice. Instead of soldering the parts in from the start, use the twists on connectors to test out all the equipment. Once you twist everything on, plug it into the car, and it works, THEN take it out and solder everything in. This DOES create more work for you. But I believe in the long run you'll be a lot more comfortable with your install and you'll know you have a solid system. Below is a picture of the twist on connector mess that I redid with the solder work.

    Twist on Connectors.jpg

    Step 4: Open the Sony XAV-AX1000 and take out the wiring harness in there. This is what most things will feed into. There are a couple of other connections on the back of the head unit, but I'll get to that later.

    Step 5: Use electrical tape to tape off the Purple and White wire, the Orange and White wire, and the light green wire. None of these are needed for this application so just make it look somewhat nice. Then you want to make sure the ends of your wires are stripped and clean before you start soldering. Here is what it should look like so far.

    Initial wiring harness.jpg

    Step 6: Next we are going to connect the speaker wiring.

    ***Before you even start this step, go watch a couple videos on how to do a simple solder. I'm not an expert and probably did it poorly.***

    ***Advice: put your heat shrink tubing on ALL of the wires before you start. This way you do not forget and then have to cut a wire you just soldered. This applies to every other step moving forward.***

    I'm going to attach a diagram of the speaker wiring themselves. You do not need to learn it, but it is what I used to achieve my results. I'll start with the front speakers. You're going to tape off the Orange and White wire and the Blue wire. Same thing as the last step, make sure the ends are clean and ready to solder.

    Speaker Wire Diagram.jpg

    Front Speaker Wiring.jpg

    Step 7: Start soldering!! I'm going to write down all the connections and which ones you're going to make at this point. DO NOT connect the red and black wire because you're going to do those on a later step.

    Make the following connections. I'll write it as Front Speaker Harness(FSH) to Head Unit Harness(HUH) for simplicity.

    Yellow FSH to Yellow HUH
    Grey FSH to Grey HUH
    White and Black FSH to White and Black HUH
    Grey and Black FSH to Grey and Black HUH
    White FSH to White HUH
    DO NOT connect red wire
    DO NOT connect black wire
    Blue FSH is taped off
    Orange and White FSH is taped off.

    It should look like this:

    Front Speaker Harness to Head Unit Harness.jpg

    For safe measure, I usually like to put some electrical tape around the heat shrink.

    Step 8: Do the same thing as the last step for the Rear Speaker Harness. This harness is easy, no extra wires are needed to be taped off.

    Make the following connections. I'll write it as Rear Speaker Harness(RSH) to Head Unit Harness(HUH) for simplicity.

    Green and Black RSH to Green and Black HUH
    Purple and Black RSH to Purple and Black HUH
    Purple RSH to Purple HUH
    Green RSH to Green HUH

    It should look like this

    Rear and Front Speaker Harness to Head Unit Harness.jpg

    Step 9: This step is simple, we are just going to connect the antenna wire. I believe this is the only step where the wire from the adapter and the wire from the head unit are NOT the same color. But you'll see.

    Connect the Blue wire from the Antenna Adapter to the Blue and White wire on the Head Unit Harness

    Antenna adapter to Head Unit Harness.jpg

    Step 10: Here is the part of the install that confused me the most. The steering wheel controls. Let me save you a LOT of time trying to understand how all the different parts work. You're going to receive a few harnesses and connectors with the ASWC-1 along with the little black box. You ONLY need the black box in there. Take all the other wires and toss them. Along with that box, you need the AX-TOY28SWC harness. The funny thing is that you don't need a lot of the wires on the AX-TOY28SWC. I'll highlight below how all the wires are used or taped off.

    12-pin connector goes to ASWC-1 Box
    3.5mm jack will eventually connect to the "remote" input on the back of the head unit.
    DO NOT connect Red and Black wires to Head Unit Harness yet
    Light green wire is taped off
    Dark green and Purple wire is taped off
    All RCA jacks get taped off

    Here's what it should look like:

    AX-TOY28SWC.jpg
    AX-TOY28SWC to ASWC-1.jpg

    Step 11: We can start connecting to the Head Unit Harness. This step is the reason why we didn't connect the red and black wires a few steps back. I'll explain the only 2 things you need to solder for this step.

    You need to solder the red wires from both the Front Speaker Harness(remember, we didn't solder that yet?) and this Steering Wheel Control harness to the red wire from the Head Unit Harness. Sounds hard, but it's not. Just look up a video on youtube on how to do it if needed. You'll do the same with the black wire, which we also didn't connect earlier.

    It should look like this:

    Steering Wheel Control to Head Unit Harness.jpg

    Red and Black Wire Splicing.jpg

    ---------------------

    At this point. If everything was soldered properly, everything will work 100%. You just need to put it into the car.

    ---------------------

    Step 12: I didn't document how to install the dash kit. The reason being it was too simple. By the time I took it out of the packaging it was installed 2 minutes later. I think that anyone who can follow these instructions is more than able to do that without me saying. It is VERY easy to install. So we are going to move on and assume you did it.

    Step 13: Plug everything into the back of the head unit. I took a picture of it. The only thing not in the picture is my microphone cable. It's the red plug labeled "mic". Very simple. Just plug the mic cable in and I'll explain how to route that later.

    Head Unit Connections.jpg

    Step 14: Plug the connectors from the head unit to the factory wiring.

    Connecting to Factory.jpg

    Before you put everything into place, make sure that your microphone cable is pushed to the left, through the steering wheel column, and down through that bottom left little ECU box. This makes sure you can route the mic cable wherever you want.

    Step 15: Push everything in. Pop the dash kit into place. Reconnect the hazard light button. You're installed. Don't turn the car on yet though.

    Finished Product.jpg

    Step 16: Before you turn the car on. Hold the "Mode" button on your steering wheel down and THEN turn your car on. I believe the ASWC-1 has to program this button, so you have to hold it down for about a minute while the ASWC-1 gets integrated with the rest of your car. I honestly don't know an exact amount of time to hold it down so I held it for like 2 minutes. I didn't want to know what would happen if I had to reprogram the ASWC-1, so I was better safe than sorry.

    You should be done now. All you have to do it route the microphone to wherever you want it. I routed mine through that little kick panel by your left foot and then up the left side through the trim and to the sun visor over my head. Was pretty simple just needed to work through it a little bit.

    Hopefully this is the product you end up with. If not let me know and I can try to help you troubleshoot.

    Working Head Unit.jpg
     
  14. Montgomery

    Montgomery Senior Member

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    Awesome write up Presley!!
     
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  15. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Great write-up! I'm surprised you weren't able to use a Metra AX-TOYUSB to adapt the native USB port into that Sony like I did with ours.
     
  16. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    Thanks!!
    I may do that. However I want to look more into USB options. The USB port in the car currently only outputs 0.5A. It’s not really an issue right away because the head unit USB is what I use
     
  17. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    The socket on the dash is just a pass-thru. With the original head unit removed, you'll find that yours no longer works at all. The cable accessory I mentioned would let you connect that port to the rear USB port of a replacement deck. That native port would then offer as much or as little electrical power as the new head unit allowed for.

    I don't know if the Sony 1000 has a rear USB port, not all decks do. Our 100 does, so we used the Metra cable to retain the native port, now with higher power.
     
    #17 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Jun 28, 2020
    Last edited: Jun 28, 2020
  18. Presley Becker

    Presley Becker New Member

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    Sorry, I should have clarified this originally. The back of the 1000 does not have USB output capability. The only solution I can think of would be hard wiring it to the battery with a resistor of some kind. But that seems like wildly too much work for a USB port when #1: theres already one on the front of the head unit and #2: If needed you can get a cigarette lighter to 2 USB splitter for like 2 dollars anywhere.

    It would be cool to get it to work though, just to say I did it. But not a very high priority at this time.
     
  19. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    Ah yes, when you get around to it there's a $7 whatsis to do this for you. You give it 12v, it makes regulated USB power, and you don't have to use lighter plug connectors; it's much more compact. I used one in my other car to create a permanent USB power source for a portable GPS navigator in that one.
     
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