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2014 Prius V engine swap

Discussion in 'Prius v Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by PatrickBrian, Oct 27, 2022.

  1. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Hello all.
    So I've watched the videos and read the discussions.
    About 2 months ago I started getting misfires on cylinder 1. To make my story shorter, I went down the rabbit hole with EGR cooler, intake, etc, etc. The other day, I pulled the plugs to peek inside the cylinders and found calcium on my new plugs, and the piston tops look like crap.
    I'm calling the engine scrap, and with only130k miles, I'm calling Toyota's refusal to help garbage too.
    My current plan is to pull the engine over Thanksgiving and replace it with a "gold package" motor from Hybrid Pitstop. Anyone heard of them?
    It seems like what I want. Supposedly, my 2014 (sold in July 2014) was made with the second version pistons and rings, and there was a third version of pistons and rings prior to gen 4. Correct me where I'm mistaken.
    I can't find anyone in SW PA to do the install on owner supplied parts. Toyota flat refused, and the shop down the road (only guy I found willing to work on a hybrid) said he's losing out on his markup.
    So, I am, reluctantly and nervously, forced to do this in cold November temperatures in the comfort of my portable carport. Luckily, it's enclosed, and hopefully I won't catch the whole place on fire with a bullet heater, but still nervous.
    I'm planning on pulling it from the top as I not only do not own a lift, but my driveway is crushed stone (fun for the back at 58 years old.
    So, with lots of reading both behind and in front of me, I am looking for tips.
    I'm getting pipe insulator for the windshield.
    Should I leave the exhaust manifold on or take it off for removal?
    I am replacing the water pump and thermostat. Should I replace other sensors?
    I will reclean the EGR/Intake. What's best to use for the EGR cooler?
    Should I worry about the catalytic converter while I'm there? I don't look forward to spending that kind of money, but if it's a concern, I'd rather know now.
    How about the or the injectors, etc?
    Thus far, the only codes are for misfiring; 1 and 2 are consistent, and 3 is occasional.
    Is there anything else to ease my pain, apart from the much required hydrocodone.

    Hey, thanks for sticking it out for this long read. I almost always find the right information on this sight, but this time I needed special attention.

    Image of 2 month old #1 cylinder plug.
    PXL_20221025_221830738.MP~2.jpg
     
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  2. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Are you talking about Hybrid Pit in California? I would pay somebody to install who has a shop and a lift. Price it with them buying the engine.
     
    #2 rjparker, Oct 27, 2022
    Last edited: Oct 27, 2022
  3. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Yes, Hybrid Pitstop out of California.
     
  4. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    So if only for my own reference, I am going to try to keep this thread updated as I go.
    Yesterday,
    Concerning Hybrid Pitstop ( @GregC1979 ) I found a 3 page thread on Hybrid Pitstop (HP), and nothing but good comments. I got my warm fuzzy, and ordered the engine. I went with the Gold Package because it made sense considering how Toyota left us Gen3 pre-refresher's in the dark, cold, damp, of Oblivion. I also added the oil filter kit. I'm actually beginning to look forward to doing this, where I had previously refused to do this level of work with no lift, a gravel driveway, and no more than an enclosed car port, in November, in Pennsylvania. I fully expect it to snow on the day that I start this project.
    Also, at the suggestion of Greg, I ordered the water pump and gaskets from my local dealer. BTW, Rohrich Toyota discounts over MSRP, and the other dealer down the street refuses to even match it. Kudo's to the Rohrich guys.
    The engine is being shipping from Cali and should arrive at work on Thursday. As soon as the family's "spare car" becomes available, I will begin removal of the POS currently invading the engine compartment. I just hope it hold up long enough for the other car to become available. I am currently loosening the cap between drives, and adding coolant at a significant rate. The start up rattle seems to have subsided because of this method, but I still see the misfires on the scanner as I accelerate.

    Two notes;
    Toyota apparently thinks that 130k is high mileage because they flat refused any assistance, using the word "unable", where I would substitute that for "unwilling". In the future, I will likely be "unable" to purchase another Toyota.
    My 2004 Prius had 250k before I traded it, and I think I experienced either battery or inverter failure. I loved that car, and still feel the loss when she pops up in my feed. I drove Mimi 45k miles a year for 5 years. I basically lived in that car, and it never let me down.

    Here, Mimi is the Silver Prius in the background, on trade in day, and my 2014 in front. We named her Mimi because she was so... Me, with my long hair and my hippie ways.
    IMG_20150307_182133_706.jpg
     
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  5. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    I also have a theory. I do not think that the EGR alone is a culprit. That should be, for the most part, dry gas coming through there. While I did see a lot of buildup on the cooler and valve, I think the wetness and gunk is also EGR. It's such a short path back to the intake, and why on earth did they put that valve on it's side. For the new engine, I am going to modify that, turning and raising, like the PCV's of old.
    If anyone has pictures (because I know there are those that have done this), please share. Also, what size are those threads? Is it true metric, or are they British. I have "made in Japan" machines at work, and the air and hydraulic fittings are all British.
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    By "dry gas", do you mean without water?

    There's a lot of water in exhaust. You're mixing hydrocarbons and oxygen, turning them into hydrogen-oxygen compounds (water) and carbon-oxygen compounds (mostly CO2). (The other stuff in there is generally from other reactions that weren't really wanted but couldn't be avoided.)
     
  7. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Sorry. What I mean is that when I pulled my EGR valve and cooler, it was mostly dry and crusty. However, my intake, below the through body, was full of oil.
     
  8. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    That oil is mostly from PCV. The PCV and EGR systems both send water vapor into the manifold.
     
  9. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    The large diameter tube entering the intake manifold is separate from the main, air intake chamber.The EGR gasses pass through and are only introduced to the air flow at the exit. My 2 cents: it's the PCV valve alone introducing the liquid oil/water mix that you see pooling directly below the throttle body. A lot more likely doesn't pool there, blows right through.
     
  10. CR94

    CR94 Senior Member

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    Yeah, but don't forget that the Atkinson cycle allows a little fuel-air-EGR-PCV mixture that has already entered the cylinder to regurgitate back into the manifold at the beginning of the compression stroke. I suspect that's why I saw some soot---from EGR---in the oily puddle in my manifold.

    I agree that some of the oil from PCV probably "blows right through" as entrained mist. Maybe most of it, unless one is obsessive about mopping out the mess frequently.
     
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  11. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Right, the two mix, and probably even gets sucked into the EGR ports in the intake as pressures change in there. eh, maybe I'm won't, but it just seems like the PCV is a huge contributor. Until you find a solution to keep the EGR gases clean through that path, the PCV is going to trap it in the oil vapors.
     
  12. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    For my records, my daughter first reported the misfire 3 months ago.
    Disclaimer. Everything you read below is for my own account. This issue has caused me a lot of stress about exactly what to do. It took a lot for me to convince myself to go this route.
    Changed plugs and swapped coils. No change.
    Sealed off EGR to test. Seemed better so I preceded with cleaning the valve and the cooler. Drive good for me. Recurred on Violet within days.
    Took it to the dealer. Let's not go there again. The best piece of advice came from when they actually let me speak to the mechanic, but he didn't say why, so I kept searching. I knew the head gasket was possible, but I checked it with one of those funky vacuum pump thinks to place on the reservoir. I thought my results were good, but wasn't sure about the device.
    The dealer also recommended swapping injectors, but then didn't have the o-rings. Rock Auto helped me there after Advance Auto let me down twice. and I order a scope from Amazon. I pull the first plug and what do I see but what appears to be calculation build up. There's water leaking into the chamber. The scope reveals issues in 1, 2, and 3.
    The weird part is that instead of seeing something steam cleaned or signs of water, I saw the same black s*** in cylinder 1 that I saw in the intake. I can only assume that cylinder or the rings are shot.
    Toyota quoted me 30 hours, and the mechanic said I was nuts, but still wouldn't tell me why.
    Then I came here. One of my searches finally brought me back to PriusChat and a thread talking about the other engine issues. The mechanic was right. He just never said why. I'm guessing they're not permitted, but damn.
    My head now spun in so many directions over what to do next. The car is in otherwise good shape. The decision was finally made to replace the engine, but only after finding HybridPit. I called, but I don't think I left a message. Regardless, I got a call back from Greg, got my questions answered and proceeded down the path to order a refurbished engine.
    Now I'm playing the waiting game, waiting for a spare vehicle to be freed up so I can stop driving the Prius. I've just been loosening the reservoir cap between drives and it seems to have all but stopped the startup misfires, but it sure is drinking a lot of water. Also, if I had to guess, and I do, I would guess that one of my rods has started to stress.
    I'll be glad when this is over.
    So while I wait, I decided to have myself a night at the cabin. Haven't been here since July. And honestly feels good to get all this off my chest.
     
  13. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    And so it begins. I just wonder if anyone knows how far it has to be lifted to clear the engine bay. I think I'm going to jack it and place ramps under the front tires so I can access. My ramps are only about 8" tall though, so I might be digging a trench as well. PXL_20221031_181632316.jpg PXL_20221031_180317994.jpg PXL_20221031_175312786.jpg PXL_20221031_175302451.MP.jpg PXL_20221031_174535941.jpg
     
  14. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Senior Member

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    A little less if you move that coffee cup. :ROFLMAO:

    I would use floor jack and safety stands instead of ramps, if possible, just so you can raise/lower as needed. Ramps you're stuck, once the engine's out.

    What will you use, one of these:

    upload_2022-10-31_12-6-22.png

    Should be no problem. I believe you can leave the exhaust manifold (and EGR) attached, just be super careful of the windshield.

    Full disclosure, never done this myself...:unsure:
     
  15. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Likely, yes. Just want planning on another $3-400 on a single use item.
     
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  16. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Edit-found it.
    Anyone have a closeup of the o2 sensor connector? Trying to disconnect from above, but I can't seem to get it to release, and not sure I'm pushing the right place. It seems like the o2 side fits into the connector, but the release is on the harness side, and it feels like the release is towards the rear of the car. @danlatu any recollection?
     
    #16 PatrickBrian, Oct 31, 2022
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2022
  17. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Well, I got pretty far today. I have the exhaust manifold, the EGR cooler still to do, and then start separating the engine from the housing. I read that it's possible to pull the engine without removing the EGR cooler but I don't see how to get to the bolts in the housing without removing it.
    I also looked at separating the exhaust manifold from the doughnut gasket, but those bolts are rusted tight. For tonight, I'm going to soak all of the exhaust bolts and call it a night I have a spare ride coming tomorrow, so I'll run down to work and pick up a few more tools and an impact wrench. Maybe I can just twist the bolts off and deal with it once it's out.
    The picture of the intake is astounding. I cleaned this only a few weeks ago. PXL_20221031_215157656.jpg PXL_20221101_001800242.jpg
     
    #17 PatrickBrian, Oct 31, 2022
    Last edited: Oct 31, 2022
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  18. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    I did get some pictures, but went mostly with video for reassembly notes. @Mendel Leisk. I want to thank you for your input on many of the threads I've been reading. I'll be re-watching my footage over the next days and surely have questions, especially regarding torque. You seem to have access (and time, based on how often I see your name in a relevant thread:D:ROFLMAO:) to such things. Do you happen to have a list with all of the torques. I hear the manual is a pain to scour for information.
    I bought a hoist from Oreily's. How beneficial would a load bar be?

    For those that have pulled the engine from the top;
    1) What did you miss when you started lifting?
    2) What would you have done differently?

    The engine should be here in a few days, so I'll be capturing pictures of the components that are reused (sensors, brackets, etc.).
     

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  19. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    So, AFAICT, everything is done except the bolts to the gearbox/transmission/whatever that thing is called.
    I have a jack under the oil pan for support, and am going to find the video showing where to strap it for lifting.
    BTW, the cherry picker from Oreille's is pretty nice. It's for sale when I get done with it.

    I managed to break loos and remove the bolts to the doughnut gasket so I'm going to try and leave the exhaust manifold attached. I have some nice high density foam to help protect the windshield.
    I also removed the EGR circuit for ease of access. I'm getting pretty good at it.

    The hoses pictured have really long pipes. You have to back those clamps off as far as you can.
     

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  20. PatrickBrian

    PatrickBrian Junior Member

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    Well, here's a thing. PXL_20221101_204856394.jpg
     
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