2014 Prius V parking brake issue resolved

I found the parts breakdown and parts at Rohrich Toyota of Pittsburgh, as they are close by and are the only dealer I've seen offering discount over MSRP. I think it was $160 for the cable shoes and hardware (including the actuator arm) for the right side. I had to call them to confirm some parts identification, and they were very helpful (ymmv).
I was unable to find a procedure for replacing the brake shoes. The only procedure's I could find were for the parking brake to be part of the caliper. Mine has parking drum behind disc (old school).
It was like doing brakes old school, but with a hub in the way. Back in the day, these things were right out in the open. It took a good bit cussing, especially working on gravel and a piece of plywood.

Jack and support
I put the front on ramps, and used the factory provided jack point to lift the rear with a floor jack. There went the plywood I was going to lay on. Jacking here raises the right side more, but I did get booth wheels to lift. Yes, I used a jack stand on the side I was working.

Remove center console and there's a support frame under it. Place both seats full forward, lift the carpet off the tabs near the floor, and unbolt (4 bolts). You have perfect access to the cables. I don't have a picture of this, but you have to remove the center pin. Take the nut off and pull the pin from the bracket. Remove the white plastic piece and you now have access to remove the rear cable keepers.

Underside
The cable brackets are secured with M6 bolts (wrench size 10mm). Buy new bolts.
Do us a favor and spray those with kroil (or some other penetrating oil). Also, expect the bolt that holds the cable to the rear (where it bolts to the dust shield) to break. That's fine because the bolt threads into the old cable so no harm. As for the bolt, take my advice and buy new bolts. I didn't, and tomorrow morning I will be drilling out a broken bolt, lying on my side, in gravel.
If you forget to buy the bolts, you can use the ones from the console to get you going.
Cable removal is pretty straight forward once you have the access. It's the brake shoes that are a pita.

Take pictures.
The top springs can be flipped end for end, but they are not interchangeable. Pay attention to how all of the springs are attached. On mine, the top rear spring was blue.
Grease the threads and pin on the adjuster, and make sure it goes back the same way it came off.

The spring clips that hold the shoe pins:
I used a small needle nose plier and pushed and twisted on the clip while holding the pin.
Beware, if you intend on replacing the pins, I was unable to remove the rearmost pin because of clearance. Unless you are repacking bearings, don't remove the 4 bolts holding the hub on.

For installation, good luck.
I attached the rear shoe with the pin after installing the cable on the lever and bolting it in place. I left the front end disconnected. I left the front shoe without the pin because I felt the need to shift it around to get everything else together.
I used a screwdriver to push the spring over the floating bracket. Rear shoe first, then front.
Next, I installed the adjuster. Everything but the front shoe pin and bottom spring are now installed.
I went for the shoe pin next because I didn't want the front shoe moving when I put on the lower spring.
Make sure the lower spring goes in the right holes. I used a needle nose pliers for that.

Reinstall the cable like it came out.
Install drum (wheel lugs on the rotor to hold it on).
I set the center adjuster only tight enough to remove slack, but not pull. I put the brake on a few clicks until I felt drag on one wheel or the other, and turned the shoe adjuster to make them even drag (accounting for caliper drag on the side I had not taken apart.
After that initial adjustment, I cycled the lever a few times, going a little more each time. I then redid the drag adjustment at about half pedal. I made it tight enough so they were extremely tough to turn forward, but much easier reverse. Check when you're done to make sure it's not dragging when disengaged.
After setting drag for the second time, I adjusted the center cable until I felt I had a good pedal.

One bolt left to drill and fill and a trip to the cabin for some r/r.

 

Thank you. Doing my part. Paying back and paying forward, for all of the help I received.