2017-19 Prius c Two dashcam wiring

Discussion in 'Prius c Audio and Electronics' started by Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Jun 29, 2019.

  1. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

    Joined:
    May 12, 2018
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    Location:
    Pennsylvania
    Vehicle:
    2018 Prius c
    Model:
    Two
    I installed a Blackvue 4k dashcam in our 2018 Prius c Two last week, and I decided to make this thread just to make the results easier to find for others searching in the future.

    This should work for any dashcam that uses a standard 12v power input, and they should be valid for any 2017-2019 Prius c (USA model) and at least some other Aqua NHP10 cars with the Toyota Safety Sense pod on the front windshield.

    I trimmed the dashcam's native power cable to about 10" (25cm) and spliced it directly to the car's harness. I found 12v switched ignition power on the windshield for the TSS pod. This is the black plastic housing surrounding the rearview mirror anchor.

    The plastic shell around the pod is two pieces: there is a small upper center piece which you can pry out- it has 2 or 3 very stiff snap tabs but it really will come out towards the center of the car. I needed a plastic prybar to get mine out. The larger lower shell then slides down and forward, hugging the glass a centimeter or two until it is free of its catches. Reposition the rearview mirror out of the way so you can get at the TSS pod.

    Connector Q7 on the safety sensor has both needed connections: pin 7 (black) for IG+ and pin 10 (white/black) for ground. The dashcam draws so little power I had no concern about the fuse rating on this branch circuit. This is switched ignition power- it feeds the camera every time we get in and drive, and cuts the power every time we park. If you are setting up a system for recording during parking, you'll need to make some changes at this point.

    dca2.png
    Connector Q7. Gray shell. Pins 7 and 10 are both on the upper row, blocked from view in this shot.


    I used a tiny ziptie to attach the dashcam cable to the car's harness for a strain relief to protect the splice points, and routed the dashcam cable upwards and out of the cable exit slot at top of the pod. There, I tucked it into the lip of the headliner to make a U-turn and come back down just to the right of the pod, where I had the camera physically mounted. I don't think this will present any complications during a windshield replacement should it become necessary.

    No need to thread wires around the side airbags or take up the power plug in the dash- it's permanent, invisible to the driver and just works.

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    #1 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Jun 29, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 29, 2019
    frenzee likes this.
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