226k mi 08 Prius - Chunk it or fix?

If your 12V battery is original from car then it's time to replace it..
You could take it in to AutoZone and have it tested to see if it does need replacing..

I would start with 12V first, as it does cause codes because it has become weak..

So, have 12V tested or replace.. clear codes and see what else may or may not showing up..

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Hello, there. 12V battery can create strange problems and issues when it's weak. I would start with replacing the 12V battery. I expect your car will be able to last you a few more years. I also appreciate that you are able to fix things yourself, which is very important in saving money on a used Prius. You can pick up an inexpensive OBD2 adapter such as Carista (around $30 on Amazon and eslewhere) and use Dr. Prius app on your phone to read codes (including ones Advanced Auto can't read) and also perform the hybrid battery tests. It's a great app and many of us use it. But I would start with the 12V battery. Many things may be resolved by just doing that. Still, having an OBD2 adapter for your car is a must these days and is extremely affordable.

Bet of luck!

 

Hi Determined - I don't want to sound like a broken record, so maybe I wouldn't say that a weak 12v is a know factor in many hybrid (not only prius) issues.
You might get better response if you post in the Gen 2 Prius section instead of the Prime section.
Hybrids have a tendency to throw codes that have nothing to do with the actual problem, especially when there are multiple codes in the same area ( ABS/VSC/TRAC: C0200, C0205, C1241, C1252, C1256, C1391 ) and the only way to figure our what the real problem is - is to check all of the listed codes one by one and check them off as you go.

Many times, especially with hybrids and newer cars with lots of sensors and systems, one fairly simple problem can trigger a bunch of non-related codes. And the only way to really understand that is to experience which one or two or three codes out of the bunch you see initially actually fix the problem(s).

 

I would not worry too much about the hv battery right now although the Dr Prius app and a bluetooth obd2 reader provides a guesstimate hv battery test involving forced charging combined with a prescribed driving test to see how fast the it discharges.

The water pump and brake booster problems are clearly the biggest concerns right now. Personally I doubt the dealer is blowing smoke (lying) about the issues although its odd if you have recently replaced both. Was that work done with new parts? Who did it? No warranty?

Obviously you did clear the codes with a battery disconnect and they came back. The hv battery is certainly a roll of the dice. I would not put $5k or more at dealers prices to fix everything. The catalytic converter on those cars are valuable so you might get $1000 from the right guy as is.

It may be second opinion time. Call Hometown Hybrids in Houston and ask for an independent recommendation. Other Hybrid Services | Hometown Hybrids

 

II would be seriously worried about the hybrid battery right now its a big pain in the tookus and if you car is still on the original hybrid battery the clock is ticking really loudly.

Don't believe me just peruse G2 repair & tech forums its becoming a very common post. There all dying. Its just time. The ones that last the longest are the cars that are driven the most like your car. Its keeps that battery constantly charged but its still a corroded mess inside that box.

But now on top of everything else the G 2 has become a big parts theft target many G2's catalytic converts are being stolen for the precious metals inside them that are now in very very big demand. Please go on youtube and search

Prius stolen

and check out all the YT's about it. many posts on it on this site too it kills people in Ca which is a carb state so you must use the oem cat only so a stock replacement cat is like $3000 installed. basically totals the car if insurance doesn't weigh in.

You wrote a great post and sound like a very sharp young lady. keep being smart let it go. Do not put anymore money into this car. get a used non hybrid car like a Hyundai that doesn't scare any mechanic.

Thee Prius G2 was such a great car for so many years an engineering marvel but all of a sudden its 13 years old and a yawning money pit..

It will sell very quickly put it up for $2000 then let them beat you down to 1500. and run.

Good luck.

 

The codes can take time to reappear just like they did last time.

The water pump and brake booster problems are clearly the biggest concerns right now. Personally I doubt the dealer is blowing smoke (lying) about the issues although its odd if you have recently replaced both. Was that work done with new parts? Who did it? No warranty?

 

give jessica a call at hometown hybrids, she might be able to talk you through some things

 

I third Hometown Hybrids. I would drive it a couple hundred miles first to see if the codes come back. In the meantime get the odb2 reader (see above for the $28 version I use) and be ready to pull the codes. You can also watch the inverter temp in real time.

The pump code actually means the inverter is getting hot even though the repair is usually the pump. Apparently the counterfeit pumps don't last too long and maybe they don't pump as well. I noticed an ebay listing where its main purpose is to describe the differences (for free) by reading the description. Learn about Counterfeit vs Real OEM Toyota Prius Inverter Pump 04000-32528 | eBay

I have heard the brake codes sometimes clear with a calibration.

 

So I guess it depends how nice the car is otherwise. Does it look good? Does it burn oil? Use antifreeze? Suspension rides good? Will 25k more miles get you though grad school? Do you like it and really can't handle payments on another car?

If you want the car and its nice otherwise, I might go for it. Total outlays for repairs and buying the car is still reasonable and most of it is sunk cost anyway. I would not worry too much about the battery until and if it fails. You could get the obd2 bluetooth and Dr Prius and try the battery hv test before deciding. I might want to check the inverter temp/pump issue but it may be an artifact of the brake issue.

New tires are a plus, a little r134a put in by a shop may make the ac great again (its ok to use an illegal to make it great as long as they know to vacuum and weigh it in). The ac code is not significant, eg B1421 is the "solar sensor circuit". It tries to calculate the amount of sun getting into the cabin to boost the ac some.

Decisions, decisions.

 

One thing that accrued to me while reading was. Have you had the 12 volt battery checked?

There are ways to nurse a traction pack as it ages. But when a 12 volt starts to go, there is really very little one can do to give it extra life, besides float charging it to keep it's voltage high enough to keep the computers in the car happy. And that takes a lot of float charging and keeping an eye on voltage readings. And the computers will notice things in the 12 volt battery that the multimeter / voltmeter will not see / show you.

I only mention it again since I read you asked the first Aamco tech that quoted you 75 not 220 and he said he didn't check. I hope I read that correctly.

My advice, if you can and since the car has already had multiple resets, pull the 12 volt and bring it in and have it tested and verified. Than reinstall or replace. If replaced, document all the changes you notice over time.

 

Who was the tech this time? Are you still driving the car around? I doubt a bad inverter would allow you to go anywhere. A hot inverter will cause issues and likely shutdown the ac since it directly provides the ac compressor's three phase power.

A -58 on the inverter either means a temp sensor is open or more likely, the tech was not using an appropriate scanner. In any case, you previously indicated you installed a new inverter pump in May. Apparently it ran ok until now. Hard to believe its the wrong one BUT it could be a knock off as suggested above and it could be bad again. It may be intermittent or it may have low coolant flow. I would get to the bottom of this POA93 issue before doing other things. It may be all you need.

A quick look on youtube for inverter replacement comes up with this series:

I think I would let a Prius hybrid experienced tech decide if it was necessary and then go from there. Its also possible that a replacement inverter will need to be updated using Toyota's Techstream software.

PS: Car Scanner app reading mig and inverter temps on my car today.