2nd Gen Left Rear Brake Mystery/Misery?

Theyres a bunch of valves that have to open n close during bleeding.the fact that one corner don't squirt etc. Leads me to Believe same or similar I guess actuator and pump accumulator are all suspect me thinks accumulator pump maybe no stock . Or NLA

 

Out of curiosity, wherever you found the "paper clip trick", were you shown how to use it to get the codes? (They're what the blinking dash lights were telling you while the paper clip was in.) Just going straight to the code clear before writing down what the codes are isn't a very effective way of using that "trick".

We have lots of posts here that do describe it usefully and completely, but we still often get people who seem to have done a search and landed on something that only says how to clear. If we can find those places we can fix them up, which helps other people later.

A post like this is easiest for us to help with if you tell us the actual codes (C1234 or whatever). If you did find paraphrases of their 'meanings' somewhere, it's fine to include that along with the codes themselves, but it's harder for us to retrace your steps backwards to guess what the codes really were if you give us paraphrases alone.

I've had similar experiences (on Gen 3 though) that depended on which dongle I was using with Techstream. It's frustrating.

Anyway, if you give us what the current actual trouble codes are, we can probably get some ideas together.

 

You can rest easy about the B1421, you always have that code if there isn't strong light shining on the dash solar sensor.

The P0420 is a separate issue concerning the car's catalytic converter. The importance might depend on your area's laws about emissions performance.

The B1271 is something in addition to the brake issues, probably worth looking into at some point.

The C0215 and C1344 are braking issues. They both really ought to have INF codes giving more information. I would expect them to have snowflakes on the side. If not, maybe the Data List shows them?

C0215 should have one of a dozen INF codes 290 thru 301. C1344 should have one of five, 581 thru 585.

The C0215 means the wheel speed signal isn't getting to the skid ECU successfully. Could be the sensor or the wiring. As you've replaced the sensor, assuming it's a good one and no mistakes were made, the problem was probably the wiring, so that would be the next place to look. There are five pages in the repair manual on how to check that. It goes into both some simple checks you can make with a multimeter, and (if it comes to that) more sophisticated ones with an oscilloscope. If it comes to that, and you don't have a scope, it might be easier to hire that work out.

The C1344 means the ECU detected something amiss with the hydraulic pressure in the rear left line. One thing that can cause that is a leak, and I think the ECU tends to react by leaving valves to that line closed and declaring it off limits (to try to keep three other brakes working and not spurt all the fluid out the suspect line). It may have to be cleared before it will allow you to bleed that line.

(I think trying to do a "non-Techstream" bleed, with the brakes awake and not put in "ECB invalid mode" first, is one way that situation can be caused. You open the bleed valve, the ECU says "Schezbzflat! that line's losing pressure!" and seals it off, and there you are. I haven't really checked whether Gen 2 even has an "ECB invalid mode" like Gen 3. As I remember, Gen 2 flat-out didn't provide any endorsed non-Techstream bleeding procedure.)

If you can't recover by just clearing that code and trying to bleed again (maybe in small stages that don't trip the code), then you'd probably just have to follow the eight pages of C1344 troubleshooting steps. One of those is to bleed the brakes , which you might have to buckle down and do with Techstream, maybe with another dongle that doesn't give you comm errors. Again, that could be hired out.

Back to the B1271 ... Gen 2 did not yet use CAN as the network connecting all the things. It still has an older, Toyota-proprietary BEAN that connects (in this order): the power source control ECU, the combination meter, the tire pressure ECU, the certification ECU (if you have smart key), the transmission control ECU (glorified name for the box that parks and unparks you), the transponder key ECU, the body ECU, and the A/C ECU, to the gateway ECU in a big ring. So the gateway ECU has one wire connected to the power source control ECU and one to the A/C ECU, and it also connects to the car's CAN and lets all these things talk to those other things.

The B1271 means that ring seems to be interrupted somewhere between the power source control ECU and the tire pressure ECU, and you probably kind of want that ring to be intact and things to talk with the combination meter. This stuff is in the "Multiplex Communication" section of the manual. You can find a nice overview of the BEAN and gateway ECU in the pages for B1214 and B1215, and then a few more specific pages of advice for B1271 itself.

Toyota Service Information and Where To Find It | PriusChat

 

i was looking in a 2006 manual. Maybe 2005 had no TPMS?

 

Correct, there was no TPMS in the 2004-2005, it was introduced in the 2006 facelift.

 

I'd guess the 2005 BEAN ring is pretty similar then, just without a stop for the TPMS.

 

I have the code for the left hand low pressure in the brake system as you know my car is not had ABS for 2 years and now I have one front brake running and I'm not even sure if the two rears are coming in to full effect since the caliper failed on the left front before the caliper fail I had all four brake squeezing even with the low pressure in the rear and the brakes worked fine I could just smoke all four wheel wells no ABS. Now today with nothing but the front right brake working as far as I can tell by the heat it's generating I can use the rear brakes by pushing the parking brake. If I manually try to bleed the brakes starting with the right rear first no power on nobody stepping on the pedal I get constant drips out of all four wheels. On my motorcycles this is what we call a gravity bleed even my left rear gravity bleeds fine drips about every half second no stoppage no slowing down no sucking air it takes about a hundred drips to show a drop in the reservoir the thickness of the line that's marked on the reservoir for you to fill to. I've measured this a bunch of times by counting the drips just for haha. So now all of my brakes have been drip bled for about 5 minutes aside one at a time starting with the furthest away first My reservoir went down maybe a half an inch maybe I put it back on the line. But I still only have the right front brake parking brakes when I step on the parking brake lever and nothing else. And of course I'm the idiot that posted the question do I have to put the whole car back together in order to create a bleed situation with tech stream meaning the inverter and all has to be reconnected replaced in its place all of that before I can even think about if anything's going to go right? Of course nobody's answered that which is what I expected.