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30% under mpg rating, any tips?

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Fuel Economy' started by R-P, Jan 27, 2012.

  1. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Just filled up my Prius for the third time.
    I keep track of my fuel-usage on a German site (see signature).

    It said I was 47% up from the (German) liters/100km figures for the Prius... (So in American terms: ~30% down on mpg from manufacturers specs)
    Checked my Volvo, and after manually filling out the manufacturers combined liters/100km number, turns out I am 4% UNDER the official liters/100km number. (4% up from average mpg number). So it is safe to say I *can* drive efficiently.

    So can anyone explain in three lines how to drive the Prius efficiently? I have tried to read up on it, but didn't yet grasp the specifics of it.
    What's this pulse and glide malarkey and what does it bring me? Why is it better than simply using cruise control?

    Any advice is welcomed. I'm not dissatisfied, the Prius mpg is the same as my motorcycle :D, but it should/could be better.
     
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  2. ETC(SS)

    ETC(SS) The OTHER One Percenter.....

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    The first thing I'd do is check your mileage at the pump with a Mk-1, Mod-0 pencil and paper. Don't use the MDF, and don't use some OUTCONUS site where imperial, metric, or US measurements have to be transmorgified into whatever you want to see at the bottom of your posts.

    I don't have much stick time in G2s, in fact I have almost zero time in type. “My” Prius is a G3 (2010-) so PNG tips from me would be valueless. My personal observations over three months are that if I dedicate almost 100-percent of my cognitive efforts to driving 'efficiently', I can get almost 60-mpg, measured at the pump.
    When I decided to drive my car like a normal car, it dropped off to about 50-53.
    It’s a company car, so ‘my’ normal might not be your normal.
    Since you're concerned enough about fuel efficiency to be measuring it, I'm guessing that there's a measurement or arithmetic error in your observed MPG.
    Once....I drove my car for an entire tank doing WOT starts, speeding, using HVAC as I wanted to. In other words....I drove it like I stole it.
    My MPG measurements dropped off to about 43-MPG.
    I refuse to believe that you're getting 37.
    Most of the hypermiling gains in Priuses (grill blocking notwithstanding) amounts to the same at it does for any other car. Try to avoid touching the throttle and brake pedals as much as you can, and make sure that your tires are properly (over)inflated, usually about 5-10 psi above the manufacturers specs, but never exceeding the max sidewall pressure, and avoid speeding. My ‘sweet’ spot for best highway efficiency seems to be about 55-60MPH. In some places, if you have to share the road with other drivers, this will get you killed.

    Read some in the G2 section and you'll get TONS of advice on PNG techniques for your subtype.
    Re-check your math.

    GOOD LUCK!
     
  3. F8L

    F8L Protecting Habitat & AG Lands

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  4. Tideland Prius

    Tideland Prius Moderator of the North
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    Winter temps, winter fuel and aggressive treads on winter tyres might be a factor (remember that the mpg gap narrows in the winter but regular cars still idle but the Prius doesn't idle in the summer and now it does).


    The idea behind P&G is so accelerate with the engine under load to maximise fuel efficiency (optimum power output and fuel usage given the acceleration requirements). Once speed is reached, you can then glide with the engine off as opposed to having the engine cruise at a low rpm that, while is fuel efficient, may not be the best use of fuel.
     
  5. F8L

    F8L Protecting Habitat & AG Lands

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    Oh and watch these. :)

    Jim show's how it is done
    In this first video pay close attention to what he says about lifting off the throttle then applying light pressure back on the pedal to make all of the arrows on the MFD disappear.


    Our very own Doc Willy
     
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  6. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    EDIT: haven't read the two posts above this one, they appeared while writing this lengthy reply :)

    - What fuel economy are you getting and how are you determining fuel economy? (trip computer or manual calculations)


    6.2l/100km both display and calculated automatically by my signature link. About 38mpg.

    - What fuel economy are you expecting and why?

    No real expectations. But 45mpg seems attainable without too much problems by people on here. And I think this is what the MFD showed when buying the car (5.4l/100km iirc which is 43.5mpg)

    - What are the approximate outside air temps?

    0-15ºC

    - How long are your trips?

    combined cycles. from 40km highway trips to innercity runs.

    - How much of it is city vs. highway? Roughly what's the average speed in overall and and of each segment? Is there a lot of stop and go driving?

    For one innercity run of 5km (3miles), we also have one 2x10km run (2x6m) with few stoplights and one 2x40km run (2x25m), 90% highway.

    - What region/state are you in? (if you haven't set your location in your profile)

    Netherlands, so no hills at all.

    - What's the terrain like of your drives? (e.g. flat, gentle hills, steep hills, etc.)

    flat.

    - Is your oil overfilled? (i.e. above the full mark on the dipstick)

    Have never checked.

    How old is your 12v battery? What is the voltage reading of your 12v battery after sitting over night? (Method Here)

    12.1V, have refilled since and not yet checked again.

    Have you had your alignment checked? Any pulling or abnormal tire wear?

    Slight abnormal tire wear at the end of the reartire's life but the Toyota tech who showed me said this was nothing special.

    - Are you using the factory tires and wheels? If not, please indicate tire make, model and size (e.g. Goodyear Assurance Fuel Max 185/65R15).

    Michelin Energy Saver 195/55/16 rears
    Michelin Pilot Primacy 195/55/16 fronts (might be vv)

    - What are your tire pressures?

    Thought they were quite high when buying (ride was somewhat bumpy, the Volvo feels like this when just setting the tires to 2.5 all round (36psi)), but when I finally checked a month later, they were little over 2 bars (30psi). Pumped them to 2.8 in front (40psi) and 2.6 rear (38psi). This was 200km ago. No big change since then in mpg.

    - Make, model, year, engine and transmission of previous car? (e.g. 08 Honda Civic Si 2.0L 4 cylinder, manual transmission) What did you actually get on the same trips/commute? (Please give us actual numbers, not EPA ratings.)

    2004 Volvo V70 D5 (diesel) AWD Geartronic, same trips but a larger percentage longer trips (150km runs at 105 and 125km/h (100mile at 65-80mph). Fuel efficiency on par with manufacturers combined rating. (28mpg US actual)

    - How are you trying to drive (e.g. trying to stay in electric only?) and how hard are you braking?

    Medium to light braking. Careful driving without being a danger to others. Brisk acceleration at times (but nowhere near what you'd call stoplight sprints...)

    - Are you "warming up" the ICE (internal combustion engine) by letting it idle after powering on?

    No.

    - Are you driving using D or B mode?

    D

    - HVAC settings? Are you using the heater, AC, auto mode, etc.? If using auto, what temp is it set to?

    Turn off AC when not needed. Only use it to heat the car if the wife is cold or when the windows are fogged up.

    - If reporting a mileage drop, did anything significant change on your car (e.g. accident, hit a curb or big pothole throwing off alignment, oil change/other maintenance/repairs, changed tires or wheels, etc.) or your commute?

    It's consistent (well, as far as you can call three fill-ups consistent...)
     
  7. SageBrush

    SageBrush Senior Member

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    Most cases of poor fuel economy in the Prius are from two causes:

    1. Cold engine driving
    2. Excessive brake use by the driver

    (1) can be attenuated by radiator blocking and EBH use;
    (2) is fixable by some drivers, and completely obtuse to others. I have watched my wife get 40-50 mpg for years while I run around at 60-70 mpg. She *wants* better fuel economy, but cannot change her driving habits to make it happen. In fact, she does not to this day understand where the fuel economy differences between us arise.
     
  8. F8L

    F8L Protecting Habitat & AG Lands

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    Things that stand out to me are:

    1. Your Michelin Pilot Primacy tires. I do not believe they are LRR rated and that will cause your mpg to suffer despite having two of the best LRR tires available on the rear of the car.

    2. Your 12v battery is weak if you only saw 12.1v with no load. That will cause mpg to drop.

    3. Brake use: you shouldn't have to brake moderately. If you are leaving enough distance between you and other traffic then you should only have to brake lightly to co e to a stop. With no traffic you should barely be using your brakes to come to a stop. Some people think that they need to use the brakes a lot to charge the HV battery but it is actually MUCH more efficient to lift off the throttle earlier and glide for as long as possible before using the brakes to come to a stop. The best hypermiling tip is to drive like you don't have brakes!

    4. Check your oil level. Some people have complained of mpg loss when their oil level is too high. This is applicable to nearly all vehicles. Ensure your oil level is no higher than the full mark and ideally it should be just below that for max mpg. Some people think they are doing you a favor by adding a bit more oil or they are just too lazy to fill it correctly. Don't trust anyone with your oil changes. Ensure they fill it correctly and if they overfill it then ask them to drain some oil until it is correct. It's your money they are wasting if they refuse.
     
  9. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    Does sound low. Sounds like you bought a used 2009 car? Main implication unclear 12v battery condition as per F8L, which could be issue. Not sure what highway speeds you are allowed to travel, but over 60-65 miles per hour your MPG will fall off.
    Too tired for metric conversions.
     
  10. GrumpyCabbie

    GrumpyCabbie Senior Member

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    Me too.

    Unless you have a fault with the car. Is the 12 volt battery still the original? Are your tyres low rolling resistance tyres and are they at the correct pressures?

    There is no way you should be getting 37 mpg US in a Prius in Holland where it is flat. OK I have a gen3 but at 50 mph on the motorway/highway I can get over 75 mpg UK (62 mpg US) with ease. At 80 mph I get 55 - 58 mpg UK (45 - 48 mpg US).
     
  11. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    We'll have a longer run tomorrow (2x100km). See how that goes.
    Yes. it's a second hand one with 80,000 miles and as far as I know the battery is original.

    I did think braking moderately was OK since it will be charging the battery. Will try to cut down on that.

    Will also try to test the battery before doing the trip tomorrow.

    Maintenance has always been done by Toyota dealers (except for the first 10k miles service), so I may bring it to them again for the soon-upcoming service. do not know if I need to, to keep warranty intact (don't think I have any warranty left, there's no 150,000 miles battery warranty here...)

    There's a set of tires that needs to be replaced, hope it's the Primacy's :D
     
  12. F8L

    F8L Protecting Habitat & AG Lands

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    I hope it is the Primacy's too. :) Let me know if you need help deciding on tires.

    One trick to really up your mpg, or at least mitigate for those times when you were forced to drive In such a way so as to really hurt mpg, is to identify a section of road on your daily commute where you can glide for as long as possible before reaching a stop sign or place where you need to make a turn.

    For example; on my daily commute I can choose to get off the freeway one exit earlier than normal. There is a stretch of road that parallels the freeway for 5 miles. There is only one stop sign on the section. I can slow down from my 60-65mph freeway speed to 50mph which will net better mpg for this part of my commute. Since there is rarely any traffic on this road and there are two lanes in my direction I can travel as slow as I like. Approximately 1 mile from the upcoming stop sign I will enter a glide at 50-55mph. From 55mph to 42mph I am using a very tiny amount of electric energy from the HV battery. Once the vehicle slows to below 42mpg all of the bars on the MFD disappear and I can glide the rest of the way using zero energy, or kinetic energy is you are being strict. As I approach the stop sign I am usually below 20mph and by the time I am ready to brake for the sign I am below 15mph and at the end of of my patience capacity. If everything is set up right i can usually glide for 1 mile here and it really pumps up the mpg. I then travel the next 2 miles before reaching my house using a sort of pulse and glide between stop lights.

    The difference between staying on the freeway and taking this earlier exit could mean the difference of a few mpg over the course of a tank. Now apply this to a couple of places on your route or other places during the course of a tank and watch your average mpg climb!

    At first it sounds like a lot of work but starting off with a hypermiling technique in just one or two spots during your commute is enough to make a difference and it's kinda fun. Pretty soon you get the hang of gliding and you can use it at every opportunity that presents itself like freeway off ramps, tall overpasses, between long stoplights where traffic is not a problem etc. in fact you should be gliding off of every freeway off ramp. It's easy mpg. :)
     
  13. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Depending upon exactly what is your definition of "moderately", it might not really regenerate very much at all. Light steady braking is the the best for maximizing regeneration.
     
  14. SpikeVFR

    SpikeVFR New Member

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    How long are you driving?
    What kid of driving is it?
    And at least hear, it isn't really a manufacturer spec, they only conduct a specific - very specific test, specified by the gvmnt, and report the results. Toyota is in no way stating that you will get this mileage.

    back in 2004, they actually tried to get permission to lower the MPG ratings they reported here in the US, their request was denied

     
  15. SpikeVFR

    SpikeVFR New Member

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    How long are you driving?
    What kid of driving is it?
    And at least hear, it isn't really a manufacturer spec, they only conduct a specific - very specific test, specified by the gvmnt, and report the results. Toyota is in no way stating that you will get this mileage.

    back in 2004, they actually tried to get permission to lower the MPG ratings they reported here in the US, their request was denied

    My Prius gets better mileage than my motorcycle...

     
  16. R-P

    R-P Active Member

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    Sorry about calling it manufacturers spec: I know it is done with a government prescribed testroutine.
    I'm not expecting to reach those specs and am very surprised I am getting it for my Volvo, which to my liking is still using way too much fuel.
    What kind of driving... that's difficult. As said, it's about 1:1:1 mix of inner-village runs (<5miles), short workruns (<10 miles x2) and longer work runs (20-25miles x2).


    The longer drive I had today. Conclusions in BOLD text:

    Two observations: at 75 mph (GPS) for over 10 minutes on the cruise control, it did 38mpg AT BEST while the ICE was charging the battery and driving the wheels. The only time it did better was the small down-hill sections of the high-way 'crossing' over a local road or whatever you call them. (the 'local road' is partly tunneled under the highway, but there is also a rise in the highway at the point where they cross eachother, hope that makes sense) But then the battery was helping out and still the mpg number was not above 47mpg.
    In short: it does 38mpg at 75mph with no wind and an outside temperature of ~32F (0ºC is 32F iirc?)

    Second observation in both directions during the run: two stretches with 60-65mph, again on cruise control with very few interventions from me (e.g. dropping out of CC because of traffic in the second lane when needing to pass a truck). Onboard computer 5 minute blocks show quite consistent 47mpg. Total measuringtime: over 40 minutes.
    In short: it does 47mpg at 62mph with no wind and an outside temperature between 32 and 36F.
    First pic during 15-20 minutes at 111km/h on the dash speedo (~64mph) at 36F, last pic 25 minutes at 107km/h on the dash speedo (~61mph) at 32F.

    Can you guys comment? I know there are many reasons I cannot expect you guys to perform the same tests:D, but I hope you have some comment on whether this obviously shows there's something wrong or if this is what should be expected.

    Sorry about the crummy pics... Phone with moving car is not a good match...
    The 5.0 line is equal to 47mpg. Any bar HIGHER than that means LESS mpg (7.5l/100km equals 31mpg). Forgive my mistakes whenever I say 'the car uses more fuel, my mpg are higher'. Our L/100km figure becomes HIGHER when using more fuel, but your mpg number becomes LOWER. When trying to convert things in my head for this forum, I might slip up sometimes...:rolleyes:)

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]
     
  17. GrumpyCabbie

    GrumpyCabbie Senior Member

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    They're not low rolling resistance tyres are they? When I had 'normal' tyres put on my car my mpg's fell by about 10%. I couldn't get the mpg's over 60 UK mpg, how ever hard I tried.

    Also, a simple diy to test your 12v is to leave the car overnight, then in the morning turn it on but NOT into Ready mode. Then wind all four windows down then up at the same time. If it is painfully slow but much quicker when tested again in Ready mode, then your 12v may have failed.

    It is a weak 12v so if it has been run flat once or twice by accident it never recovers fully.

    I did note that it was cold (0c) when you did your tests so that along with a poor 12v, wet roads and non low rolling resistance tyres might account for your poor economy.

    Do you have winter tyres on? Are they required by law in Holland at this time of year? If so, that could be your problem.

    Just to prove why we're all concerned;

    [​IMG]

    This is a graph on the gen3 showing a 30 minute range in 5 minute segments, indicating I got over 75 mpg UK (3.7 litres/100km) for this time limit. Some five minute averages were 80 mpg UK or 100 mpg UK. I was on a flat road at an exact 50 mph (80kph). It can be done, even in a taxi.

    The following pic is an 11 mile run (17 km) on a flat road at an average speed of 34 mph. Yes I managed 91 mpg UK/75 mpg US or 3.1 l/100km, but maxed the battery out and almost died of boredom and roadrage attacks.

    [​IMG]
     
  18. wjtracy

    wjtracy Senior Member

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    This looks normal to me - what I got the last couple weeks.
    At 75 mph, my mileage drops off to 42-44 MPG in summer and can go less <40 in winter. Keep in mind we are having winter (Aussie members notwithstanding). I average 47 MPG but thats ~50 in summer and 44 in winter cold = 0 deg Celcius (=32 deg F). In contrast to GrumpyCabbie, my MPG drops off precipitously over 65 MPH speed. So you are driving quite fast in cold weather. Sometimes I notice Prius hypermilers on the road - speed limit 65 for them means 60 with occasional peak up to 65.
     
  19. F8L

    F8L Protecting Habitat & AG Lands

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    Were you watching me drive to work this morning? :p
     
  20. uart

    uart Senior Member

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    Originally Posted by R-P [​IMG]


    Looks normal to me too. So there's your solution, just keep it under 65 MPH most of the time.

    Now lets see why your "around town" fuel economy is bad. Do you know how to make the car "glide". Tell us about the speeds and traffic conditions for your shorter trips.