4th Gen to 3rd Gen engine swap - Pricing Question

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by youdiejoe, Mar 29, 2019.

  1. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    Did you disassemble the EGR valve itself and clean all of its internals?
     
  2. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    I did not disassemble the EGR valve (starts searching for up EGR valve cleaning videos...)
     
  3. The Critic

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    That is probably your problem. A stinky plunger inside the EGR may cause the issue you are describing. Toyota’s TSB for the updated EGR valve and software update was designed for this specific condition.
     
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  4. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    I'm trying to remember...Will I have to completely remove the EGR cooler assembly to get to the valve off for cleaning? Seems like it would be accessible if I get the EGR pipe off? (crosses fingers)
     
  5. The Critic

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    The EGR valve can be removed w/o removing the cooler. You will need to remove the studs to the EGR cooler and use a long 1/4" wobble extension with a palm ratchet to remove the 12mm nut.
     
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  6. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sidewalk Supervisor

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  7. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    Thanks, I did those step last month but left off taking apart he EGR valve and cleaning it.

    BUT Unfortunately, I just went to remove the cover and both screws to the black plastic cover stripped out, I was able to remove one of the them but the other is a lost cause, will have to have it drilled out at this point.
     
  8. Mendel Leisk

    Mendel Leisk Sidewalk Supervisor

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    I never managed to get those damn screws off. I did try tentatively with and impact screw driver, but they weren't budging.

    Where you're at, I would just leave them, at least till you you replacement screws. I've got this in my notes:, just my best guess as to what they are:

    EGR valve screw replacement:
    M5-.8x16 (socket head cap screw style would be good)

    The valve can be cleaned more-or-less 100% without taking that cover off, especially with the whole valve/cooler assembly removed from the car.

    Just browsing Amazon a while back, I put these in a shopping cart, seem like good contenders. I'm not 100% sure about the diameter though:

    upload_2019-5-13_10-25-41.png

    If you (or anyone) has some Toyota part number info, it'd be good to share.
     
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  9. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    If you are talking about the screws holding the cover to the motor, those screws do not need to be removed.
     
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  10. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    Well then I guess I did clean it. I pulled it apart from the EGR Cooler assembly as @NutzAboutBolts showed in this video and cleaned it thoroughly, the only thing I didn't do (obviously at this point) is remove the plastic cover.

    FYI The EGR Valve was replaced under warranty back in October 2017 @ 133K miles by the previous owner (car is currently @ 163K)
     
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  11. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    I decided to speak with a mechanic, if I could find where he got to... after searching around I was able to find @Avi's Advanced Automotive at his new location near downtown. I stopped by and chatted with him for a bit, gave him the overview of what I had done to the car, he pulled up my carfax and looked over its service history. He said with the coolant levels not dropping and it not burning any significant oil I should try to run a tank of gas with Techron, and then one more without and then change the spark plugs and see if that clears it up.

    If you're looking for a hybrid mechanic in the Los Angeles area Avi is really great, he has repaired 2 of my cars in the past and I recommend him without reservation.

    I'll report back later with results...
     
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  12. Raytheeagle

    Raytheeagle Senior Member

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    If removing those screws, you need an impact screwdriver ;).

    Otherwise you strip them out as you found:(.

    Good luck with the cleaning(y).
     
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  13. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    Update: Yesterday I checked the coolant level and it seemed like it may have dipped slightly, less than 1/2" so I topped it up to the FULL line, I'd say about 6 oz at most. Drove the car for an errand that was going to be 50 miles round trip, mixed freeway and surface streets. Once I got to the location via the freeway, the shudder started happening on the transition between electric and ICE start up, something it had not done before, got to the destination and stopped the car. After 1/2 hour when I was ready to head back, the check engine light was on at start up along with the shudder, it was throwing the PO302 code (cylinder 2 misfire) that it had before the EGR cleanout.

    Got back home and decided to go ahead and change the spark plugs and see if that would help, it did not. It shuddered at startup and I took it for another drive about 30 miles and it was 50/50 on the shudder on electric to ICE transitions. Checked the coolant level and it had dropped back down a 1/2" roughly to the mark it was at this morning before topping it up.

    I'm going to be taking it to @Avi's Advanced Automotive today (if he has room), I'll update once I have a diagnosis and a plan of action.
     
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  14. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    IMG_4669.jpg
    This is how much coolant loss occurred over 50 miles when my head gasket failed.
     
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  15. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    Yikes! That's at least double what I lost. I've been watching the cooling levels religiously as I've seen here they seem to be the most important indicator of possible blown head gasket, I'm hoping that I'm catching this "early".
     
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  16. The Critic

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    At this point it is reasonably safe to guess that you have a failed head gasket.

    Do you have oil consumption?

    If not, I would just replace the head gasket, resurface the cylinder head, install new valve stem seals and install a new water pump.

    The extra cost of the Gen4 engine may not be necessary.
     
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  17. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    Oil consumption was less than a quart over the last 5000 miles, so I'd say that is very average for this engine at 163K miles.

    I'm leaning towards replacement of the head gasket and and all as you outlined.
     
  18. The Critic

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    How long do you plan to keep the car?

    Realistically you will probably get another 50-75k before the next big ticket item - the battery. At that point the cost of the battery will likely equal or exceed the value of the car.

    This is debateable, but for me, I would approach it two different ways:

    1- if you only plan to keep it for another 50-75k, I would replace the HG and deal with any oil consumption that pops up. If you are already burning oil now, you can safely expect it to get a lot worse in the next 50-75K. Mine burns 0 at 190k.

    2- if you plan to keep the car for as long as possible without regard for its market value, then I would either go the Gen4 swap or have Avi get you a new short block from Toyota ($2k).
     
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  19. youdiejoe

    youdiejoe Junior Member

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    FYI The car had a new battery from Toyota under warranty, the new battery has a little under 40k miles on it.

    Avi is booked up the rest of this week, so I'm bringing it in beginning of next week to do a leak test and we'll go from there.
     
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  20. The Critic

    The Critic Resident Critic

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    If that is the case and you really intend to keep the car, I would go all out and do the Gen4 swap or the new Gen3 short block.
     
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