7 Years and 46K mile Maintenance Suggestion

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Tim Wang, Dec 6, 2014.

  1. Tim Wang

    Tim Wang Junior Member

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    G'day fellow Prius owners!
    Recently when I took my 2007 Prius to the dealer for a tire change (Assurance Fuel Max + alignment $590 - 40MIR), they recommend me to change the serpentine belt, which would cost $130. I didn't do it that day thinking I only got 46K miles on the car (Being a college student I don't drive much).
    I found no crack on the belt, but the flat side is shiny, which if my internet research is correct, suggest belt slipping. I also found cracks on a rubber dampener (?) that could be a part of the engine mount?
    I will have a 2000mile trip to California in 2 weeks and I want to make sure nothing bad happens. I hope someone in the forum can help me identity (given the pics) [1] whether the belt replacement is necessary, [2]whether I need to worry about the crack on the rubber.
    [3]If the belt need to be changed, whether it could be done with 2 hand and a ratchet.
    [4]What other maintenance do you guys recommend? (I got oil change handled every 4500 mi so thats no worry)

    Pic link here:
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14418910/Pics/IMG_2561.JPG
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14418910/Pics/d.png
    https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/14418910/Pics/s.png
    Any input is welcome.

    Happy early Christmas and new year to y'all.
     
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. There is a lot of rust showing up in your photos. I suppose this is due to the relative lack of use.
    2. I would not worry about the engine mount.
    3. It is not necessary to replace the serpentine belt at 46K miles. When you do change it, it can be replaced with hand tools. My post #18 in the following thread explains the procedure:
    Service Schedule on Serpentine Belt | PriusChat
    4. You need to use a quality 14 mm six-point socket on the nut that locks the idler pulley in place, along with a cheater bar and an extension to improve your leverage. Do not use the cheapest twelve-point socket you can find.
    5. Regarding maintenance, I suggest inspecting the wiper blades, brakes and suspension system, and replacing the transaxle ATF.
     
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  3. frodoz737

    frodoz737 Top Wrench

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    Respectfully speaking...considering the appearance, environmental's, age, proposed trip, ease of task and cost of belt...change it before you leave for California. You don't need that problem on your trip.
     
  4. valde3

    valde3 Senior Member

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    Belt looks normal in the picture. I don’t see any crack in the picture. Belt change is easy only hard thing are to get that 14mm bolt loose and not to get belt tension two tight. Inspect brakes and transaxle fluid could be changed.
     
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    happy Christmas!
     
  6. Tim Wang

    Tim Wang Junior Member

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    I do notice that there are a lot of rust on my car. Although I don't drive the car much, I make sure I drive the car at least twice a week for the last 5 year I got it. The car was from Boston and i am living in central Illinois. Maybe the snow and salt contribute to that as well?

    Yep, wiper/brakes/suspension are in check, the ATF definitely need to be done. Thank you.

    That's what I was thinking as well. When you do do this, is it possible to change the belt without lifting the car off the ground? I don't have a proper jack...
     
  7. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    It is possible, and if you have the time and energy to replace the belt now in the cold Illinois winter weather, more power to you. The new belt costs ~$15 at Toyota dealers that sell parts at a discount over the Web. If you buy from your local dealer you might pay $20 or thereabouts.

    You need to use your left hand to feel around the crankshaft pulley to make sure the new belt is correctly seated in the pulley.
     
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  8. Paul Schenck

    Paul Schenck Active Member

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    Hey Tim: I've been following Pat Wong's posts here for years and saved myself thousands. Being in California I get 150k out of my belts (no freezing just 104 F) you with snow, ice,salt, sitting around seven years. If it was in a garage I'd say no worries,but not?The price of a belt is peace of mind. It's your call though. I did cross country at 150k just after changing my belt


    iPhone ?
     
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  9. Tim Wang

    Tim Wang Junior Member

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    Thanks for everyone's support.
    I just had the ATF changed at the dealer, the car feels much smoother (or is this placebo?).
    I had the mechanic show me the issue with serpentine belt, he showed me and claim "microscopic cracks". I didn't change the belt but bought one so I would be able to do it in case if it breaks on the road or when I arrive somewhere not as cold.
    I will post a video of the road trip when I got back.
     
  10. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    have a great trip, all the best!(y)
     
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  11. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    Next oil change, relube the front brake caliper pins and have the rear brakes serviced. Despite the lack of miles, it's possible the brake lube may be drying out.

    Rear brake service: new lube on the shoe mounts, and new lube on the adjusting mechanism (some advise against this). Shoes "roughed -up" w/ sand paper (say 100 grit or coarser), steel wool, or some similar soft, pliable abrasive material, to remove any glazing on the shoes and drum. Lastly an adjustment will be required.
     
  12. Tim Wang

    Tim Wang Junior Member

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    Thanks for the advice, I did "checked" the front and the rear brake.
    What I did is I took the caliper (front) and the drum (rear) off, cleaned with brake clean, and inspected the condition of the pads, they are all pretty dull to me.
    In terms of lube, my understanding is anti-seize on the places where the pads touch/slide against the whatever-the-non-moving-part-called. Is this correct?
    Dropbox - IMG_2453.jpg
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    Dropbox - IMG_2468.jpg
     
  13. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    The rear drum shoe lining looks good in one of your photos. I can't say anything regarding the photo of your front disc.

    The high temp lube needs to be on the caliper pins that the brake pads are suspended on. Very little lube is needed, you do not want this dripping onto the friction surface or the rotor. You would first remove the pins and clean them with brake parts cleaner spray. Then allow the pins to dry and apply a very thin lube coating.

    If you were replacing the rear brake shoes (which based on your photo is unneeded) then you would lubricate the points where the shoes contact the drum backing plate.
     
  14. Tim Wang

    Tim Wang Junior Member

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    Yeah I don't have a good picture of the front brake caliber but I did checked the sliding pins and it seems to be well lubed. I squeezed the rubber boot and there are solid lube coming out. There are anti-seize between the rotor and the drum. Seems like the dealer did a good job when I went in for service at 32k miles.
     
  15. TampaPrius.com

    TampaPrius.com Active Member

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    Wow! not used to seeing all that rust. Spoiled here in Florida
     
  16. Epiphany2000

    Epiphany2000 Member

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    If you're going to be in the Bay Area while visiting California & you want to have the serpentine belt replaced (or have any other work done), I suggest taking your car to Luscious Garage. They are very highly regarded (much more than the stealerships), and I believe they charge $50 to replace the serpentine belt (including parts and labor).

    I second Patrick's suggestion to replace the transaxle fluid. It's a simple drain and fill process.
     
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