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A short rant, and some things I'd like to see changed to improve battery life

Discussion in 'Prime Main Forum (2017-2022)' started by chogan2, Feb 6, 2023.

  1. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Remember a decade ago when Nissan dismissed the loss of capacity claims of Leaf drivers and so the Leaf drivers got together at a test track in Arizona and documented everything? Nissan lost and had to buy back their cars! Same thing will happen to Volvo too if they deny warranty for people who only lost 72% capacity!
     
  2. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i could have sworn another company warrantied capacity loss. hunday or someone
     
  3. Salamander_King

    Salamander_King Senior Member

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    OK, I got it. But still my point seems to be valid. Read on to your next quote.

    Yes, I agree there is still a wide difference in lines when only 50% discharge. But my point is that the max difference is at 20% discharge on the x-axis. When the battery is >80% discharged on the x-axis, you don't see any difference in Yeas to 80% capacity (y-axis) whether the battery is charged to 85% or 100%. And my second point is that most driver is likely to drive longer than 20 miles a day, thus depleting the battery >80% most of the time.

    I used 30% as a benchmark because there is at least one case of a manufacturer who warrant the loss of more than 30% in less than 8 years as you stated. According to the graph, even charging practice of 85% upper limit (which is actual 76.5% SOC if the graph represents a 90% threshold), in 8 years, the battery is going to lose 20% capacity if it is habitually depleted to >80%. My contention is that most PHEV including Pip and PP probably lose 20% capacity in 7-8 years, but not more. And this happens on most Pip and PPs unless one is driving the car less than 80% EV range (less than 20 miles) daily. But losing 30% or more of capacity in that period is probably a very low-frequency event.

    Yes, you can always find some cases of people who have lost capacity in shorter periods than average. But how many? Is that the norm? Again, even this case, which without reading the thread, is only a 15% loss after 4 years. That I think is well within the norm, and it is not much you can do to prevent this rate of degradation except not driving on EV mode any more than 5 miles at a trip.

    As I pointed on my comment above, in the thread: 2021 Prius Prime traction battery: the first year degradation
    I concluded that the PP traction battery degradation in the first 12 months of my 2021 PP was ~4.5%. If you read the thread, you will see that I did similar analyses on 2020 PP, and 2017 PP also. And they all showed a similar rate of degradation in the first 12 mo. But for the 2017 PP which is the only PP I kept longer period, this rate of degradation seems to have stabilized in the next two years so that it did not further degrade in three years.

    Of note, those three PPs I have owned were charged by totally different routines. For 2017 I was doing daily commuting of 38 miles, so the car was on the scheduled charge to reach 100% EV range immediately before going out in the morning, and the EV range was fully depleted by the end of the day. Thus this would be similar to the 100% charge line on your graph. But with a lot more charge cycles (daily) compared to the other two. For 2020 PP, I stopped commuting, and for the most part of the ownership of the car for 10 months, I was under COVID restriction, thus the car was almost never charged fully. Mostly only 30-40% but was charged full occasionally (less than once a week) and driven the full EV range once a week. Thus this one is very close to the 85% charge line on your graph. And the 2021 PP was driven more frequently and charged more frequently (2-3 times/week) than the 2020 PP but not on the schedule. I just plugged the car whenever convenient and did not make any effort to keep the SOC level low even if I may not drive it for a few days. So, it is again similar to the 100% line in your graph, but worse than the use case of 2017 in that no schedule was used. In the end, at least for the first 12 months, the traction battery degradation rate is all very similar at about 4-5%. Yes, it is still possible that if I kept the car longer I may see drastic differences in the battery capacity in those three cars. But my guess is the opposite. It is most likely they all behaves very similarly all the way to 10+ years, that is because all three cars when I was driving, I drove it to deplete the EV range to 0 miles. Again your graph from the NREL report agrees with that assertion.
     
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  4. chogan2

    chogan2 Senior Member

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    Let me just address the first sentence, because I would not want people to be misinformed.

    You seem to assert, with certainty, that loss of PHEV range is covered..

    Here's an image of the actual Toyota warranty, under "Items Not Covered", from my 2021 Prime.

    The highlight is mine, the boldface is Toyota's.

    And, as noted above, the only difference between Toyota and every other PHEV manufacturer other than Volvo is that Toyota's warranty information is written clearly enough that it's easily understood. This is the industry norm. I was unaware of that until a few days ago, and I suspect that I was not alone.

    upload_2023-2-8_16-53-12.png
     
    #24 chogan2, Feb 8, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 8, 2023
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i think pretty much everyone here with a plug in has seen and discussed that part of the manual.

    the answer is always the same, nobody does it. except volvo? i doubt anyone will buy a volvo because of toyota's disclaimer
     
  6. chogan2

    chogan2 Senior Member

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    You could be right. I couldn't make head or tail out of it, and in the end, I think that because they have one warranty for all their vehicles, what they actually cover is the EV battery, not PHEV.

    Here's an image of the 2023 warranty applicable to their PHEV. I've highlighted where they say they warranty no more than 30% range loss. And where they say they don't warranty any losses in the battery.

    You'd have to pick which one you thought was correct.

    upload_2023-2-8_17-6-59.png
     
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  7. chogan2

    chogan2 Senior Member

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    Yeah, I wasn't plugging Volvo, I was just trying to figure out what this means.

    "This" being that no-PHEV-range-warranty isn't a Toyota thing, it's an industry thing. I'm an economist by training, and I find it ... interesting, I guess. When there's a de-facto industry standard, there's usually a reason for that.

    My guess is that auto makers all saw some significant risk in offering a range warranty.

    And, courtesy of this thread, I think I know why they saw risk.

    With a Prius, they could tightly estimate battery life, purely as an engineering exercise. There's really not much an owner can do to trash a Prius battery, within reason.

    With a Prime, I'm guessing that bad climate or bad owner practices really could trash the battery, just like it says in the Toyota warranty.

    This means that projecting PHEV battery life is no longer simply an engineering problem, as it was for the Prius. It's now involves guessing what fraction of owners will live in the climate/engage in the practices that will result in premature range loss.

    There was no way for them to predict the behavioral side of it. So their actuaries undoubtedly told them that their future financial liabilities from a range warranty were unknown.

    And,as a businessman, that phrase "your future liabilities are not known" is something you just never want to hear.

    So the whole industry stepped back from the idea of offering range warranty for PHEV..

    And they could, because it's not critical for sales, the way EV range warranty is. And it's not mandated by law, as EV warranty is.
     
  8. Trollbait

    Trollbait It's a D&D thing

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    Nobody warranties for range. Some do for capacity. While they are correlated they aren't the same thing. Some EVs will free up buffer capacity to counter capacity loss for instance.

    1) Better education is always nice.
    2) I think this is the norm with BEVs. Would be nice for PHEVs, but they generally already have larger buffers to contend with hybrid operation and emission warranty regulations.
    3) Ironically, the gen3 had this. Since the gen4 Prime and PiP pack is air cooled, they used chemistries that are more heat tolerant.
    4) That's the norm in Europe and other markets; it is called EV mode. In fact they don't have the full speed EV mode, but a City EV that is more EV. Both modes will kick on the engine for high demand.
    5) The control algorithms will turn on the engine when it deems battery damage is possible; even the US EV mode.

    Are you sure the 100% SOC means just to the bottom of the top buffer, and not a literal 100% SOC, cause I took a glance at some NREL papers, and they don't spell that out. The use of PHEV10, PHEV40, etc. also mean these aren't real cars. Most of these reports are form models backed by bench work.

    Many of these statements are legal CYA. Not that some behaviors can cause capacity loss, but you can do everything right, and still have it. It is actually expected in Li-ion to have capacity loss in the first year with it just sitting there.
    Some(most?) BEVs have such warranty. Seems rare with a PHEV, but as I mention above there are other concerns to the manufacturer in regards to the battery and its warranty. Having to meet the needs of hybrid operation and emission regulations likely means a PHEV battery is coddled more than a BEV one.
     
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  9. PriusCamper

    PriusCamper Senior Member

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    Actually my neighbor across the street bought one of those Volvos. And I've never once heard of someone coming to Priuschat asking for help after they read the manual... I bet ya I wouldn't be able to get someone to read their own manual even if I trapped them in a small box with the condition they have to read at least one page before they get let out.
     
  10. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Since we have established you can't trust Toyota to replace a failed battery under warranty and you don't want to get out while you can, then there is little more to be said.

    D61E108D-E3DC-49BF-A679-EF8381D75359.jpeg
     
  11. chogan2

    chogan2 Senior Member

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    I'm not sure I grasp all of that.

    But, to be clear, I checked the NREL analysis, before I posted, and their SOCmax is 90% of literal SOC. They are modeling a car with 10% reserve. As noted in the post, add 5% to the nominal values on the curves to see where the Prime would sit, with a putative 85% maximum absolute- or true- SOC.

    "My wife now owns a 2021 Prius Prime with the lowest trim level. We absolutely love, love, love the car."

    You may have missed when I said that, in the first post in this thread. Roughly the second sentence or so.

    Salamander_King, yeah, I need to hear what he has to say. Dude was an early adopter, and gets kudos for that. And he hasn't seen an issue, that's valuable information. Not that I'm going to agree with him point by point, but at some level, I want to know what he does and doesn't do, where he lives, garage-kept or not, and so on. Because even if we're not 100% on the same wavelength, I need to try to understand where he's coming from.

    Because? Because he owns one, and he has skin in the game, and has obviously given this some thought, and actually read the prior posts.

    Hope that's not too harsh. I'm just trying to separate true from false, and trying to get best use out of this car.
     
    #31 chogan2, Feb 8, 2023
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, 2023
  12. chogan2

    chogan2 Senior Member

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    Dog mode. A request.

    Edit: Skip it, I was just too lazy to find it on the internet.

    Might as well sum up. This has been encouraging.

    My impression of the consensus here is that
    a) nobody's ever heard of premature or excessive range loss in a PiP or Prime, to date and
    b) nobody takes precautions with the battery or believes that precautions are necessary.

    To me, that suggests that these systems are far more robust than I would have imagined. Particularly based on the wording in the warranty and manual, which, again trying to summarize, should perhaps best be viewed as standard legal boilerplate, rather than actual maintenance advice.

    So that's really good news.

    I'm still going to err on the side of caution, as I expect that these cars will have exceptionally long life, and I intend to own this for a while. So I'm kind of sticking to my original plan, despite the consensus that caution is not necessary.

    For avoiding high-current situations, I've bought a ScanGauge III so I'll have a way to monitor battery current. In hindsight, I think the eco-meter actually displays instantaneous power, so probably just paying attention to that would be enough But an actual amp reading means that, in theory, I can do a little further calculation.

    For keeping the cargo area cool in sunny summer weather, I have nothing effective. Sun shield in the back window and roll the windows down. Maybe a piece of radiant barrier on the cargo area floor. That's it. There is no way to simulate "Dog mode" in a Prius. While the Prius can keep the AC on for long periods, parked, my understanding is that you have to have the car in ready mode. Which, in a parking lot, unattended, boils down to "ready to be stolen" mode. I think. So that's a non-starter. Works for camping in the car, doesn't work for shopping.

    This guy says you get ~six hours of cabin cooling, in direct sunlight on a hot day, on a full Prime battery charge:
    Toyota Prius Prime Battery Discharge Rate When Sleeping In Car With AC Running - Camp Hike Live California

    Finally, I'm going to continue to aim for shallower charge cycles, to the extent our driving patterns allow that. A timed four hour charge takes us from zero to 82%. I understand that won't work for most, but that works for me. I just need to find the hours for other intervals empirically, or find somebody who has already tabulated that.

    One weird charging note: In theory, the charging curve says the charge rate gets slower with increased state of charge. But I noticed that in the Prius, it seems to take forever to get any range when you start off at zero. It finally dawned on me that the first portion of the charge cycle is probably spent just pulling the "hybrid" portion of the battery back to full charge. And after that, you start to add PHEV range. The upshot is that it takes me four hours to go from zero to 80%, but only about an hour to go from 40% to 80%.
     
    #32 chogan2, Feb 8, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2023
  13. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    i have always taken precautions. i try to charge just before leaving, and i leave it empty when away.

    after 10 years and 85k (55k pure ev) i have lost about 15% best i can tell.

    something sounds wrong with your charging, is it L1 or 2?

    of course, cabin cooling is based on a number of factors, so it's hard to compare with others, or even one instance to the next
     
  14. vvillovv

    vvillovv Senior Member

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    The Prime has an Battery Cooler option available in the MID settings. If that battery cooling option is selected ON, when the traction pack reaches 100 F and the car is turned Off, the MID will ask (for about 5 seconds) if you'd like to use A/C while charging. Though you have to be ready to select Yes, or turn the car on again and see if you get the option a second time after turning the off again. Many miss the opportunity the first time (it's a short 5 second screen) and second time around only works sometimes, for me, anyway.

    As an aside issue many here at priuschat (mostly when Prime was first released in 2017) declared that preconditioning the car was useless to them, as it wasted charge time and electricity and didn't cool or heat (in the winter) the cabin for their comfort. ;)
    Anyone else remember those posts?
     
    #34 vvillovv, Feb 9, 2023
    Last edited: Feb 9, 2023
  15. chogan2

    chogan2 Senior Member

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    Understood. I was talking about keeping the cabin interior cool when parked in the summer sun. Something similar to "Dog mode" for a Tesla.

    Nothing wrong with the charging. I'm just using level I, 120v charging.

    The problem was straight-up operator error. I don't commute, don't have any fixed travel schedule, so I ignored the charge schedule software and got in the habit of plugging in when I got home. Because I never bothered to read the owner's manual. So I didn't realize that's a bad habit.

    You, by contrast were doing it right.

    Luckily, the car is only 18 months old and in almost all other regards, we've given the battery an easy life. The car is garaged, the house is air conditioned, so it stays at room temperature for most of its life. And I'm a feather-footed driver by nature.

    So I don't think I've done any serious harm. Yet.

    The last big factor for battery degradation is temperature. Everybody says heat kills lithium batteries. In Virginia, in the summer, parked in the sun, I think that's an issue. But so far, all I've figured out to do is leave the windows down, and put up a sun shade when I park.
     
    #35 chogan2, Feb 9, 2023
    Last edited by a moderator: Feb 12, 2023