ABS brake actuator service recommendations

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by LaCajun 25, Feb 6, 2021.

  1. LaCajun 25

    LaCajun 25 New Member

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    2006 Prius 138k miles (original owner)

    Brake, ABS, ((!)) tpms dash lights
    C1256 and C1391 error codes pulled using a mini vci cable and techstream 12.

    Hybrid battery changed with new cells from newpriusbatteries.com 08/2020

    12v battery changed 2019

    Searching around on here leads me to believe the abs actuator needs to be replaced. I have lots of buzzing noise associated with the brake trying to pressurize and extended noise when I step on the brakes when stopped.

    1. Should I replace with a new OEM part or with a used part (heavily leaning towards new)

    2. How long of a replacement is it if I did it back a mechanic; ie. how many hours is reasonable to be charged for this?

    3. I see a brake bleed is needed after replacement, would a brake bleed kit from Harbor Freight work for this or do I need specialty items?

    4. Do I need to remove tires to do the brake bleed? If so, should I just change the brake pads? Since I have tires off already and a brake bleed is needed.

    5. Any other service I should do along with changing the actuator?

    My goal with the car is to drive for another few years and switch to the Tesla cyber truck. So I’ll keep it for another 3 years to let demand for cyber truck to die down a bit.

    My mechanical experience is limited to changing the oil on my cars and changing the Prius HV battery. This is a 1 of 3 cars so it can be out of commission for a bit.


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  2. SFO

    SFO Senior Member

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    If you're paying for someone to do this job, it would be prudent to go with new OEM. There is Dorman with a lifetime warranty.
    Someone mentioned doing this job in three (3) hrs if they had to do it a second time, the same person took 5 hrs on the first swap and bleed, others who've done this job took a total of nine (9) hours, over 3 days. Five (5) hours seems fair, not sure what the book rate is.
    Techstream will walk you through the bleeding process. You will likely need a helper.
    Unless using a hoist, removing the wheels makes it easier. Many will get 200k on pads, at least inspect and lube up the caliper pins.
    Have you ever changed the transmission fluid?
     
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  3. JC91006

    JC91006 Senior Member

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    This is a quite difficult job, the inverter has to be removed and you may need to drain the coolant, it took 5 hours and it was a royal PITA. If you have any back problems, I suggest you not attempt this as it's very hard on your back. You'll be lifting the heavy actuator out from inside the car's firewall. Lower back strength is needed.

    I would definitely go with a New unit at this point. The available used parts are all from 2004-2009, they are really old and you might have to repeat the work if it fails after a year. A new unit would cost around $1165 from Longo Toyota online parts department. The new unit will last another 10 years.

    There is a shop in TX (hometown hybrids) advertising mobile service for $1895 for a new unit. This is a good price for a few hours of labor and they come to you.

    The brake bleed is necessary and it's done through Techstream. It's an electronic brake bleed, not mechanical.
     
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  4. LaCajun 25

    LaCajun 25 New Member

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    Thanks for the advice and suggestions.

    Life got busy so I’ve been MIA. I ordered a new actuator from Olathe Toyota for $1155 shipped.

    I replaced the part, only took me about 20 ish hours to do. Lots of stopping to watch YouTube videos and to take pictures of the process. I spaced it all out over a week. No extra parts left over. I’ll post a separate write up when I have some time. In hindsight, it might have been better to find a mechanic to do it for me. The hardest part was getting the parts out. Hoses got in the way and the thing was awkwardly heavy.

    I still have to refill my coolant and do the brake bleed. Time to go watch some more videos

    At this point, I don’t think I’ll do a trans flush. Maybe an oil change and that’s it. I’m tired of looking at my Prius right now


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  5. dolj

    dolj Senior Member

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    No need to do a flush. Just a drain and refill. It's just as easy as an engine oil change once you have your funnel and pipe (to fill from the top) and a good quality 24mm socket and 10mm hex (Allen key) socket, it takes about 20 - 30 minutes to do. There's no hurry though, just do it after you take a rest break.
     
    #5 dolj, Mar 5, 2021
    Last edited: Mar 5, 2021
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  6. LaCajun 25

    LaCajun 25 New Member

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    Hmm I spoke too soon. I got the abs actuator installed back; I didn’t know what to do with the resistor that came with the new part as all the videos I watched never mentioned it. So, it’s still in its package.

    I now have new DTC and the car doesn’t start, just goes to on mode.

    I get 1252, 1253, 1256, 2318 and 1421 now.

    I was able to bleed 3 of the 4 tires before my 12 v battery died on me. There was an annoying alarm the entire time I was bleeding the brakes and then the battery died. I’m waiting on my trickle charger/maintainer to charge it back up.

    Anyone have thoughts on where I should look? I’m pretty sure I connected everything back but I can take things apart again to double check.
    IMG_5893.jpg


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  7. LaCajun 25

    LaCajun 25 New Member

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  8. LaCajun 25

    LaCajun 25 New Member

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  9. LaCajun 25

    LaCajun 25 New Member

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  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Don't sweat the B1421 (just means sun wasn't shining strongly on the solar sensor at the time you read the codes) or the C2318 (just means the battery voltage got low; you knew that already). Charge the battery back up.

    C1252 / C1253 / C1256 all pertain to the brake pump having to run unexpectedly long (the first two) or the pressure not staying acceptably high (the C1256), which are naturally related. Stuff like that can happen while you are bleeding, because you have valves open letting pressure out, and especially if your battery is low and the pump is doing its impression of a dying windup toy. The lack of pressure is also what the annoying beeeeeep is about.

    I'd suggest getting a really good full charge back on the battery (on the order of a day on a charger) and try again. Of course your bleed procedure is constrained to some extent by what Techstream tells you to do, but sometimes you can pause a little in the procedure and give the pump a chance to catch up and cool off.

    I wouldn't assume there is any problem necessarily, other than needing to get through the procedure completely without running the battery down. It might help to keep a charger attached to the battery while you proceed.
     
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