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ABS, Brake, Amber Triangle, Traction, Parking all lights on

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Owais Siddiqui, Aug 3, 2021.

  1. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Your best bet short of finding an independent hybrid repair shop (there are a few in Houston) is to at least get a diagnosis from a dealer and then go from there.

    To stay on your present course, you should invest $20 and spend the weekend reading and downloading a portion of the pdfs on the Toyota TIS site. Unfortunately, once you find a procedure each is setup with links to complete additional steps that you also download. There is a learning curve to navigating the site and they assume you are a Toyota trained mechanic to begin with. You can pay for longer online access which is what the dealers have. The dealers and some independents also have experience from hundreds of previous cars which had the same problems. Link and pic below.

    Direct suggestions short of the above:
    Get a borescope inspection of the cylinders. A cleaner cylinder has a coolant leak. If ok then verify plugs and coils but they will normally throw codes.

    Replace the master cylinder and pump with new or roll the dice again with used.

    https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/appmanager/t3/ti?_nfpb=true&_pageLabel=ti_home_page&contextType=external&username=string&challenge_url=https://techinfo.toyota.com/techInfoPortal/login/techinfo&password=secure_string&request_id=-3432199701616814234&authn_try_count=0&locale=en_US&resource_url=https%3A%2F%2Ftechinfo.toyota.com%2F

    8E277452-F807-4D87-A6E1-B8B3A8EFF058.jpeg
     
    #41 rjparker, Aug 23, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2021
  2. Owais Siddiqui

    Owais Siddiqui New Member

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    The pain I've gone through so far, I would rather a mechanic come do a thorough diagnosis and tell me exactly what could be few different reasons for my ABS problem. The problem is that I don't know any good Prius shops myself and even google search doesn't bring experienced Prius repair shop. The shops I've talked about my car so far, mobile or in-shop were all general mechanics and I don't want to be wasting $100 to $130 for some generic diagnostics that I've done myself already. I can spend this money for diagnostics especially at a reasonable stealership but so far my dealership experience in Houston has been horrible. They would hand me over a list of repair and replacement parts worth couple of thousand dollars or more as if I don't know that replacing everything with new ones would definitely fix the car, so then why you need stealerships.
    So I am left with 1. A good Houston based Toyota Prius dealership for a complete assessment or 2. Get the subscription and study the literature myself and fix the problem. I think I prefer option 1. but I don't know how long is it going to take to find a reliable mechanic/workshop.
     
  3. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    I don't think you will find a mobile hybrid mechanic with a legal techstream and experience. You will need to move the car to them. In Central Texas I have one independent guy I trust but he is a three hour trip from Houston and you would have to leave it as he is busy, just like the dealers. Probably no free diagnostic. So a dealer is more accessible and the diagnostic would be about the same cost.

    I believe Houston's Hometown Hybrids have a good reputation and will diagnose the brake actuator before replacement. But you know what they or the dealer will say. New parts only.
    Other Hybrid Services | Hometown Hybrids

    I would diagnose and fix the rattle first. If its engine time, the whole equation changes.
     
    #43 rjparker, Aug 23, 2021
    Last edited: Aug 23, 2021
  4. Owais Siddiqui

    Owais Siddiqui New Member

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    I agree, but the problem is that the noise is so short and random that I don't know when to expect and for how long and if it is really the engine rattle. My gut says it is engine rattle that I never addressed it even when I was doing the major job of replacing the head gasket expecting that it will take care of the rattle altogether but now I think it did not.
    As for the other sources of rattle, I did inspect the pistons with naked eyes after head removal and I couldn't see any signs of piston abnormality or crank distortion/warp. The spark plugs are new, injectors have been thoroughly cleaned and tested, ignition coils have been tested with new replacement. One of the exhaust valves had a minor leakage which was lapped and fixed. After head gasket replacement when the engine was started the first time, it rattled like I messed up the engine. At that time I noticed MAF had a lot of black carbon on it that I cleaned and it took care of the rattle. For me that was it and it never rattled again but now I do hear a very similar brief noise for less than a second not at the cold start but random. So the bottom line is, there are no more pointers left for me to start looking into for engine rattle. I am getting ready to toe it to my local dealership for a complete assessment.
     
  5. Owais Siddiqui

    Owais Siddiqui New Member

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    I am writing my response after a month now. It was frustrating but rewarding in the end. So as we discussed I ordered both the assemblies (actuator and pump) from ebay but I couldn't receive for ten days. The guy probably didn't have the item and he cancelled it after ten days citing that the buyer wanted to cancel. It was frustrating but I found a better one that claimed 10K miles on it. After a week I only received the actuator. After my reminder the guy sent me the pump later. After all this long I was able to install both the assemblies yesterday and the instant I turned the ignition on all the ABS/TRAC/VSC lights were gone. I air bleed the brakes and took a short and successful test drive. At this point I really don't have a clear picture if it was the pump or the actuator. One thing that I would like to add here was that I was really lucky to get such a good parts. I normally don't believe 10K miles for a 2010 Prius but those assemblies really looked like brand new. The metal polish was fresh without any stains or blemishes. The pump also has much lesser noise than my old one especially not as shrill. Anyways the long frustrating job ended nicely and I am happy about it. I thank everyone for their time and insight especially Chapman and rjparker (y):)
     
    ASRDogman likes this.
  6. Owais Siddiqui

    Owais Siddiqui New Member

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    I am back to the forum for the original problem i.e. the rattle. As I mentioned in my previous messages I wasn't sure if the rattle issue has been taken care of. So here I am after driving for just one day, the worst kind of rattle noise is back on. I'll try to upload the video if the forum allows me to upload 13MB long file. I am completely lost because I've pretty much changed all that could be related to the rattle. I don't have any check engine light or any other alarm or codes. I am taking it to dealership tomorrow or next week. Also should I start a new thread for this rattle problem? (P.S. I reduced the video size from 13MB to 6MB but it still doesn't allow me to share an .mp4 file. Strange that the forum doesn't support .mp4)
     
    #46 Owais Siddiqui, Sep 23, 2021
    Last edited: Sep 23, 2021
  7. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    How did you install it? On a lift and removed the suspension, or removed the converter/inverter?

     
  8. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    It was likely the pump. Initially Toyota only replaced the pump but later replaced both due to a few comebacks. So the pump is almost always bad with these codes.

    Concerning your continuing engine rattle, it is quite possible the head gasket is bad again. We have had several people go back two or three times, sometimes because of loose head bolts or warped surfaces.
     
  9. Owais Siddiqui

    Owais Siddiqui New Member

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    None of that. If you are mixing it up with Prius 2004 - 2009 then yes you cannot replace the pump in those model years without removing the inverter. In third generation the pump assembly location is odd and removing the two vibration mount nuts and putting them back, because of inaccessibility, was one of the worst jobs I've ever done.
     
  10. Owais Siddiqui

    Owais Siddiqui New Member

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    I would disagree with you on head gasket because there is no smoke, the coolant level is not gone low and especially it rattles so bad as if more than two cylinders are misfiring.
    Just because there are no codes and most of the rattle related items have been replaced, I start wondering in so many different directions. Could it be transmission, inverter...
    If I give it a break so it cools down may be for half an hour or more, then I can drive it back home without the killer rattle if I am gentle with rev/speed and keep the load low i.e. AC turned off. Since AC is inverter driven, does it mean the problem has something to do with the inverter? I am thinking out loud and wondering for a true clue.
     
  11. ASRDogman

    ASRDogman Senior Member

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    I am talking about the 3rd Generation.
    So HOW did you replace the actuator and pump?
    I've watched a few videos, and read how Toyota says to replace them.
    There's no way you are replacing them without removing the suspension or inverter.
    Could you please explain? Did you video your work?

     
  12. Owais Siddiqui

    Owais Siddiqui New Member

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    I am sorry, I didn't video recorded my work but there's a good youtube clip on this work. Its all about the two nuts :D
    (273) Gen 3 Prius 2010-2014 Brake booster and actuator replacement for C1391 code - YouTube
    This guy has done a good job except that his camera was fixed because he was single handed. Since the camera was static he missed showing a lot of details and close ups that some DIYer may want to see but still you get a good idea of the work.
     
  13. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    When Toyota had to do a whole bunch of them under a recall, they put their heads together and wrote up T-CP-D0H-A510-D, how to do it without removing the suspension or inverter. It's pretty much as seen in that video, but you'll enjoy their clever design of a thing for those two nuts so you don't lose them or the bushings.

    Kind of funny watching this guy at 14:55 take the protective plug out of the line fitting of a brand new accumulator, and then proceed to leave it out through the whole job of wrangling it down into place. I'd have been inclined to leave the plug in till I was done knocking dirt everywhere, and then take it out just before attaching the line.
     
  14. rjparker

    rjparker Tu Humilde Sirviente

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    Obviously there is a way. Some of us high mileage guys were there years ago. Mine was done from the top with no impact to the inverter. Its a job. If you were to change the pump by itself you still have to remove the master cylinder.

    867F18B5-7F2F-4722-8B41-BBCFF10B71C2.jpeg
     
  15. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Not so neither. T-CP-D0H-A510-D has you remove the cowl, the brake fluid reservoir and the bracket it sits on, and move fuel lines and the wire harness to the ECM out of the way. But the master cylinder/actuator stays put.