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ABS, ((!)) Break Lights, Battery Doesn't Regen When Braking

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Care, Maintenance & Troubleshooting' started by Slavatheshrimp, Mar 30, 2017.

  1. Slavatheshrimp

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    2015 Toyota Prius. Insurance paid me out and let me keep the car. It has a rear passenger quarter panel damage as well as damage to the suspension. It only has 8000 miles as of now.

    The quarter panel and the rear suspension was completely swapped off a 2012 Prius with 160k miles.

    My brother currently drives the car and I haven't drove it since it was repaired till recently.

    ABS, BRAKE, ((!)), and the yellow Swerving Light is on.


    When braking, the car doesn't charge and regenerate the battery.

    Self Diagnostics:
    1. Pin 4 and 13 Short Circuit (Tried x 2) = Didn't Go Away
    2. OBD2 Scanner = No Fault Codes
    3. Unplugging the 12V didn't help.
    Questions:
    1. Wheel Bearing (ABS) Bad?
    2. How much would a replacement cost?
    3. OEM or Aftermarket?
    4. How much would labor cost me?
    5. Anything else I should check before taking it to a mechanic?
    6. What would a mechanic do to determine the issue?
    Thanks in advance.

    99802_Lights.png
    122331_IMG_1148.jpg 122332_IMG_1214.jpg
     
  2. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Um, pin 4 to 13 isn't a way to clear the codes, it's a way to read the codes. Two-digit versions of them blink out on the dash warning lights.

    If you count those blinks and post here, we'll probably get somewhere.

    They will still be set after reading them this way.

    -Chap
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    maybe the speed sensor? someone else is replacing the hub, maybe there's pricing in that thread.
     
  4. ILuvMyPriusToo

    ILuvMyPriusToo Senior Member

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    Although maybe not if you then disconnected the 12V (further down your list). However, it does seem like an ongoing issue, so they will reset.
     
  5. Slavatheshrimp

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    Thanks for the reply. I finally got around to looking into this issue again and tried what you told me. When I start the car, the only light that blinks is the low tire pressure light with an exclamation point upload_2017-4-18_17-9-22.png . It blinks around 64 times (seemed like too much to count for an error code) before coming back on steady. I snooped around some forums and found a handy procedure that takes me into the service menu. From there, I was able to read out 2 error codes. The codes were:
    • B1585
    • U0129
    After taking a picture of the codes, I pressed and held the Code CLR button to clear the codes.

    I managed to get the trouble codes from withing the car's MFD which are:
    • B1585
    • U0129
     
  6. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Would you mind sharing that picture? I've used several diagnostic screens on the MFD but only for AVC-LAN diagnostics, and I don't recall running into one where I could see DTCs. (Hmm, I guess it's possible those B and U codes might be special cases, things the gateway ECU would know about. But I'd be interested to see the screen you found.)

    -Chap
     
  7. Slavatheshrimp

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    Sure! Do you recognize these codes? Google search doesn't show many results when I look them up.
    20170418_162400.jpg
     
  8. RRxing

    RRxing Senior Member

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    B1585 doesn't get a hit (weird!) but U0129 does - Lost Communication with Brake System Control Module. More details are on page 12.
    It show the CAN Communication System as the trouble area.
     

    Attached Files:

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  9. Slavatheshrimp

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    Hey guys, quick update here. Recently, when I was driving the car on the freeway, there was a ramp with a sharp turn and all of a sudden, the car started beeping/buzzing (same sound when you don't put on your seatbelt). This stayed on for approximately 20 minutes and was on when I parked at home. Eventually, the sound went away and came back again when I drove over a speed bump. Currently, the sound is off because it went away again.

    More pieces for the puzzle: I recently got a hold of a scanner and was able to extract real codes:

    ABS/VSC/TRAC:

    C1202 Master Reservoir Level Malfunction
    C1241 Low or High Power Supply Voltage
    C1252 Brake Booster Pump Motor on Time Abnormally Long
    C1256 Accumulator Low Pressure Freeze Frame Data
    C1467 Rear Speed Sensor LH Circuit

    Some data:
    Sample Time MM:SS.mmm
    TROUBLE CODE C1252
    Detailed Freeze DTC 311
    Elapsed Time after Freeze Trigger 0 msec
    Number of IG ON 31
    Elapsed Time 176 sec
    Buzzer ON
    Stop Light SW ON
    Parking Brake SW OFF
    Reservoir Warning SW ON
    Shift Lever Position D/M
    Operated System Non
    Stroke Sensor 1.03 V
    Stroke Sensor2 3.94 V
    Accumulator Sensor 0.49 V
    Yaw Rate Sensor 0 °/s
    Lateral G -0.78 m/s2
    Forward and Rearward G -0.58 m/s2
    FR Wheel Speed 0 km/h
    FL Wheel Speed 0 km/h
    RR Wheel Speed 0 km/h
    RL Wheel Speed 0 km/h
    Vehicle Speed 0 km/h
    Accelerator Opening Angle % 0.0 %
    ECB Motor Relay OFF
    ECB Main Relay ON
    IG1 Voltage Value 13.88 V
    IG2 Voltage Value 13.88 V
    BS1 Voltage Value 13.96 V
    VM1 Voltage Value 13.09 V
    Motor Relay Voltage Value 12.00 V
    Steering Angle Sensor 88.5 °
    Regulator Pressure Sensor Output 0.49 V
    Regulator Pressure Sensor Output Variant 0 MPa/s
    Wheel Cylinder Pressure Sensor 0.49 V
    SLA Solenoid Current 0.00 A
    SLR Solenoid Current 0.00 A
    Target Oil Pressure 0.00 Mpa
    ECB Solenoid (SSC) OFF
    ECB Solenoid (SCC) OFF
    ECB Solenoid (SMC) OFF
    ECB Solenoid (SRC) OFF
    Voltage of Stroke Sensor -0.03 V
    Voltage of Stroke Sensor2 -0.03 V
    Sample Time MM:SS.mmm
    TROUBLE CODE C1256
    Detailed Freeze DTC 341
    Elapsed Time after Freeze Trigger 0 0 120 msec
    Number of IG ON 31 31 31
    Elapsed Time 132 sec
    Buzzer OFF OFF ON
    Stop Light SW OFF OFF OFF
    Parking Brake SW ON ON ON
    Reservoir Warning SW ON ON ON
    Shift Lever Position P
    Operated System Non Non Non
    Stroke Sensor 0.94 0.94 0.94 V
    Stroke Sensor2 4.03 V
    Accumulator Sensor 0.52 V
    Yaw Rate Sensor 0 0 0 °/s
    Lateral G -0.78 -0.78 -0.78 m/s2
    Forward and Rearward G -0.78 -0.78 -0.78 m/s2
    FR Wheel Speed 0 0 0 km/h
    FL Wheel Speed 0 0 0 km/h
    RR Wheel Speed 0 0 0 km/h
    RL Wheel Speed 0 0 0 km/h
    Vehicle Speed 0 0 0 km/h
    Accelerator Opening Angle % 67.0 89.0 91.5 %
    ECB Motor Relay ON
    ECB Main Relay ON
    IG1 Voltage Value 13.96 V
    IG2 Voltage Value 13.96 V
    BS1 Voltage Value 14.03 V
    VM1 Voltage Value 13.17 V
    Motor Relay Voltage Value 12.00 V
    Steering Angle Sensor 21.0 21.0 21.0 °
    Regulator Pressure Sensor Output 0.49 0.49 0.49 V
    Regulator Pressure Sensor Output Variant 0 0 0 MPa/s
    Wheel Cylinder Pressure Sensor 0.49 V
    SLA Solenoid Current 0.00 A
    SLR Solenoid Current 0.00 A
    Target Oil Pressure 0.00 Mpa
    ECB Solenoid (SSC) OFF
    ECB Solenoid (SCC) OFF
    ECB Solenoid (SMC) OFF
    ECB Solenoid (SRC) OFF
    Voltage of Stroke Sensor -0.03 V
    Voltage of Stroke Sensor2 -0.03 V

    Tire Pressure Monitor:
    C2121 Cannot Receive a Data from the Transmitter ID1 (Main)
    C2177 Initialization Un-Completing
     
  10. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    Your first priority will be to find out why the brake system isn't able to maintain proper pressure even with the pump running abnormally long. Those are the codes that are severe enough to trigger the buzzer you were hearing.

    -Chap
     
  11. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    First, this car is unsafe to drive and you are putting people's lives at risk, and not just your own. What if you run over a child? How will your live with yourself? Get the car properly fixed before putting it on the road. You could even wind up in jail or lose your home if the car fails and hurts someone.

    Second, you need to use the correct OBD scanner, because Toyota has a bunch of computers and a generic scanner won't get all the codes. The correct scanner is called Techstream. Get a "copy" from eBay. You need a Windows laptop to run it. This will tell you everything that's wrong.

    Third, once you get the Techstream and ALL of the fault codes, you can follow the troubleshooting procedures outlined by the factory if you purchase a subscription to Toyota's tech info. You can buy it in various time increments; you'll probably need a 30-day subscription, not just one day.

    It sounds like communication to an entire control system is cut off. It could be as simple as a single electrical connection that's missing/damaged or loose. The technical documentation will help you trace it, just like a Toyota technician would.
     
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  12. Yippeekyaa

    Yippeekyaa Active Member

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    Could this possibly be the suite of issues that arises when the 12v battery fails?
     
  13. Slavatheshrimp

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    First of all, thank you for taking your time to reply and help diagnose the car issues. I really appreciate it and this is why I'm here on the forums trying to get to resolve this as soon as I can.

    Thank you for the tip. Any specific things in the brake system that I should be looking out for?

    Thank you for your advice. If the car is dangerous to drive, I will not drive it.

    Actually, I did not use a generic OBDII scanner to get those codes. On a Prius, my experience with generic OBD scanners yielded no error codes whatsoever. I did use a mini VCI cable along with Techstream to pull out the information that I posted earlier.

    I scanned all the ECU's for codes:
    upload_2017-5-8_16-42-54.png
    These are the only ones that showed error codes:
    upload_2017-5-8_16-43-2.png
    upload_2017-5-8_16-43-10.png

    Active codes:
    Tire Pressure Monitor:
    1. C2121 Cannot Receive a Data from the Transmitter ID1 (Main)
    2. C2177 Initialization Un-Completing
    ABS/VSC/TRAC:
    1. C1202 Master Reservoir Level Malfunction
    2. C1241 Low or High Power Supply Voltage
    3. C1252 Brake Booster Pump Motor on Time Abnormally Long
    4. C1256 Accumulator Low Pressure Freeze Frame Data
    5. C1467 Rear Speed Sensor LH Circuit

    All other codes are marked as history. I will try to find some technical documentation, could you link me to some samples/where I can find them?

    Who knows, it could be a problem that may have cascaded from the infamous 12V battery fails, but I do not recall having issues with my battery. Checked the voltages and seemed to be fine, but I might have to take a closer look now that I have the ability to use Techstream.
     
    #13 Slavatheshrimp, May 8, 2017
    Last edited: May 8, 2017
  14. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    To those who believe there is such a thing, I imagine so; it basically seems to cover any situation where your car has reported a few codes and no one has diagnosed them.

    I've had a couple Prii since 2008 with no sign of such a "suite of issues" though, so you'd have to call me a skeptic. Codes reported by my Prii have always turned out to mean what the manual said they mean, even after episodes of starting voltage pulling down to 7 or less.

    I work in IT, so I'm familiar with the "in general" effects of temperature and supply voltage variation on logic circuits. I've got stories of both (the best ones are from cases of temperature or voltage too high). But the stuff hardened for Toyota's embedded automotive use seems to be hardened pretty well, for all I've seen.

    -Chap
     
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  15. Rebound

    Rebound Senior Member

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    There was a user once who had problems after a rear end collision and the cause was that the 12V battery negative ground wasn't tightly attached to the chassis. It was very tight at the battery. Classic loose screw. Start there, and then look at all of the electrical connections you made when installing that rear end. You can also use the 30-day subscription to get troubleshooting procedures
     
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  16. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    These are your priority items, they're the ones that set off the warning buzzer. (Low accumulator pressure also impairs your stopping ability ... hence the buzzer.)

    You can click the snowcloud shown next to each of those two in Techstream to see the measured data as of the time each code was triggered. These two could clearly be related ... if the system is not effectively building up pressure, of course the pump may run longer.

    You can use the Data List button and see your accumulator pressure at any time, I think, so you can see about how long it takes to pump up and what it pumps up to.

    The C1202 could be part of the picture. How is your fluid level? If the level is normal, there may be something up with the level sensor. If the level is not normal (or if, somehow, some air got aspirated at some point), well, it would take longer than normal to build accumulator pressure, for sure.

    The C1241 could be part of the picture ... if the voltage reaching the pump is low, well, it's gonna take longer to pump up. It's important to remember this code is reported by the brake computer and it isn't a direct measurement of 12 volt battery voltage; it's a measurement of voltage reaching the brake pump and components, and there are several lengths of wire, fuse links and fuses, connectors and other components on that path. You may be able to see that voltage measurement in the Data List—I don't remember if it's shown there or not—and see how it changes under load when the pump runs.

    If you're in the US (not sure from your profile), techinfo.toyota.com is where the manuals are. (Other markets seem to have their own websites, working more or less the same way.) You might be tempted to skip the info under the "NCF" tab (New Car Features), but don't: that's what tells you what all the stuff is and how it's supposed to work. The Repair Manual is written assuming you've already seen that, so it just talks about how stuff is not working right, assuming you already know what "working right" is.

    -Chap
     
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  17. Dyjital

    Dyjital Member

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    I'd suggest bleeding your brake system for that one. The electronic brake system, if compared to the manual vacuum powered system if there is air in the line then the booster must be pumped and pumped to get to pressure. Manual and electronic operate under the same method. If the pump is on too long.. it's taking too long to pressurize. /rambling.

    Very possible a slight hole in a line, please inspect it well even if you don't see dripping fluid, could be seepage.

    Same as above, I'd consider low pressure due to air in the line = pump staying on too long.
     
  18. Slavatheshrimp

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    Hey guys, just a quick update, and hopefully my last one. I started off at the very beginning with your suggestions. I went under my hood to check all my levels and realized I needed to add more breaking fluid. I am still baffled how I could have missed this minor detail, but all the dashboards lights have disappeared and I am happy to announce that my system returned to normal. My regenerative breaking now works properly and the low tire pressure light [​IMG] is a separate issue that I am now investigating. Thank you for the suggestions, I really appreciate every single one of you that contributed! (y)
     
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  19. Andyprius1

    Andyprius1 Senior Member

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    Fill tires, set TPs to desired pressure, otherwise you have a airleak somewhere, did you replace that right rear tire with a,stock tire and sensor?
     
  20. Andyprius1

    Andyprius1 Senior Member

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    That's funny, top up BRAKE fluid.