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ABS lights on

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by Eri Minaya, Jul 23, 2017.

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  1. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    I have a 2007 Prius with over 200,000 miles recently my 12 V battery went bad and before I replaced it I spent the week jumping my car. And now when I pump the brakes eventually all my lights turn on and the break get stiff. If I parked the car let it sit for a while and restart my car all lights go away and my brakes are back to normal. Once I get on the road depending on how frequently I press the brakes all the lights turned back on and the brakes stiffen again. I have four code is C1252 C1256 C1311 C1313. Also when the brakes are normal and the lights are off when you pump the brakes a few times you can hear the brake booster rattles Lightly, all my fluids are topped off. Where should i start, I don't want to invest more than this car is worth please help
     
    #1 Eri Minaya, Jul 23, 2017
  2. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Did you replace the 12V battery yet? If not, that must be done now. If you have a new battery, did you fully-charge it prior to installation?
    2. What are you using to retrieve diagnostic trouble codes?
    3. Exactly what warning lights are on?
    4. The first two DTC you listed indicate that the brake actuator pump has failed. There is a lower probability that the skid control ECU has failed
    5. The last two DTC indicate that ABS1 and ABS2 relays may be failing. However those codes might be spurious if you have a marginal 12V battery installed.
    6. Make the Prius READY, and measure voltage across the 12V battery. It should be ~13.8VDC. If it is much lower, the DC/DC converter is not working (due to a blown DC/DC fusible link or a failed inverter - which would be the result of a botched jumpstart.)
     
    #2 Patrick Wong, Jul 23, 2017
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  3. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    It was a brand new battery fully charged, i went to a shop for the codes, vsc abs and the other light shows
     
    #3 Eri Minaya, Jul 23, 2017
  4. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    My new battery died today again and i need a jump now does this mean these issues are more likely electronical
     
    #4 Eri Minaya, Jul 24, 2017
  5. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    yes. if something is draining the 12v, it's hard to diagnose any other potential problem.

    you need to install a fully charged battery, and monitor the voltage.
     
    #5 bisco, Jul 24, 2017
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  6. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    Also the break booster seems to be louder now
     
    #6 Eri Minaya, Jul 24, 2017
  7. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    P2601 code appears on my odb scanner
     
    #7 Eri Minaya, Jul 24, 2017
  8. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    See #6 in my post 2 above.
     
    #8 Patrick Wong, Jul 24, 2017
  9. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    Th current checks out at 13.8 as you advised
     
    #9 Eri Minaya, Jul 24, 2017
  10. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    Maybe the new 12V battery is defective. What brand?
     
    #10 Patrick Wong, Jul 24, 2017
  11. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    Its the gel optima battery just bought it from advanced auto parts, also sometimes when i turn the car off and take the key out the car turns back on by itself and the dashboard lights up flashes then fully turns off
     
    #11 Eri Minaya, Jul 24, 2017
  12. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

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    1. Put a charger on the 12V battery overnight so that you do not ruin the newly purchased battery. Optima will accept up to a 10A charging rate.
    2. Given your observation in post 11 above, it sounds like a relay might be stuck or the Power Source Control ECU has a problem, which is allowing battery current to flow even when the car is IG-OFF.
    3. You need to seek professional assistance now, unless you think you have the ability to measure quiescent battery current and locate the circuit which is drawing excessive current.
    4. If you plan to DIY, the first step would be to measure quiescent battery current with your digital multimeter when the Prius is IG-OFF. If much more than 0.02A, your car has a problem. Then you could pull one fuse at a time to see if you can figure out which fuse is responsible. Once you have identified the fuse, then look at the circuits downstream from that fuse.
    5. Get the electrical wiring diagram at techinfo.toyota.com
    6. DTC P2601 relates to the engine coolant heat recovery system pump, which might be a separate issue - or might be related to the battery drain issue. That is the pump which normally runs a few seconds upon startup and shutdown.
     
    #12 Patrick Wong, Jul 24, 2017
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  13. Eri Minaya

    Eri Minaya New Member

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    I've changed the abs module but now i have c1263 Lamp Warning Relay Circuit Open code
     
    #13 Eri Minaya, Jul 28, 2017
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