AC Button on Key Fob Doesn't Work

this is where you are at?if so, i really think you will need the service manual to troubleshoot.
have you followed the specific directions in the o/m?

 

Whats the temperature you set on climate control before you press and hold the button?

 

I’d check first that each of the operating conditions listed on page 348 of the Owner’s Manual (PDF) is met, and that none of the conditions listed on page 349 that would cause the remote air conditioning system to shut off or not start is present. As you mentioned, and as noted on page 608, by customizing a setting using a Toyota Techstream diagnostic system or equivalent, the system can be disabled entirely. I’d check this next.

If neither of these solves the problem, there are troubleshooting procedures for the remote air conditioning system in the Repair Manual, available by subscription to techinfo.toyota.com or in the ChiltonLibrary service, to which @Slavatheshrimp's local public library sponsors free access for its patrons. The first few steps in the manual, all done by reading Data List pages with Techstream, are to confirm that the door and hood courtesy switches, start switches, IG and ACC signals, door lock position switches, and stop light switches are all reporting correct information to the car’s computers. It wouldn’t surprise me if the trouble is in this area.

I’d also suggest using the Health Check feature of Techstream to verify that no diagnostic trouble codes have been stored that are related to the air conditioning system, wireless door lock control system, power door lock control system, or to CAN bus communication among the Certification ECU, Main Body ECU, Power Management Control ECU, and Air Conditioning Amplifier Assembly, all of which are involved in the remote air conditioning feature, according to the explanation in the New Car Features book (also on techinfo.toyota.com).

[Edited to add:] If the published troubleshooting steps don’t resolve the problem, I suppose one (or more) of the ECUs mentioned above could have been replaced (as part of a collision repair, for example) with one from a vehicle of a different trim level, with firmware that doesn’t include the remote air conditioning feature.

For example, the parts catalog lists two different versions of the AC Amplifier Assembly, part number 88650-47310 for “ZVW30..G,S; MOON ROOF-WITH(SOLAR PANEL)” and part number 88650-47330 for all others, and something similar for the Main Body ECU. I haven’t checked the others.

 

is this a salvage vehicle?

 

Those diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) indicate CAN bus communication problems among the ECUs mentioned. This is one possible cause for the remote air conditioning not working.

Just retrieving the DTCs won’t fix anything, of course. Keep in mind that if the DTCs are in the history, not current, they might be left over from a problem that has already been repaired.

I’d suggest the first step should be to use the CAN Bus Check feature in Techstream to verify that all of the ECUs are communicating normally right now. If not, go directly to the general troubleshooting procedure for the CAN bus, in the Repair Manual under Power Source/Network: Networking: CAN Communication System: How To Proceed With Troubleshooting.

If the CAN Bus Check is normal, there might be an intermittent problem. Clear the DTCs, drive the car some, try the remote A/C, and then run the Techstream Health Check again.

In the Health Check output, pay attention not only to the DTCs themselves, but also which ECU or ECUs are reporting them. For example, DTC U0100 can come from the power management ECU, navigation system, combination meter assembly, air conditioning amplifier, or some combination of these. It always means there was a problem communicating with the engine control module, but for effective troubleshooting, you need to know which other ECU(s) were involved.

 

There was only one current, confirmed (“Curr Conf”) problem at the time the Health Check was run, DTC C1464, Front Speed Sensor RH Circuit. I’d do the published Repair Manual troubleshooting procedure for that one first.

The other DTCs are all in the history (“Hist”) and appear to be unrelated, at first glance, but I suppose there might be some common cause, such as a damaged wire harness. You’ll clear all the DTCs in step 4 of the C1464 procedure, so you can see which ones come back after driving the car. Those would be worth further attention.