AC compressor

This is a really easy job but maybe it's not for some if you just recently had the system filled and it may have not been done properly it could be locking up. But you don't mention any of this so I'll just assume it $400,000 has been a long time since the air was serviced and it probably has gone bad it's an electric compressor I'm at $300,000 with the original compressor on and it's still runs quietly like new but I don't expect this to hold forever it is an electric component and it will wear out I imagine before I quit driving the car since I live in a hot area and we do run the air conditioning a lot.

 

@strawbrad may be close to you, and can offer advice, recommendations, and likely parts.

@lech auto air conditionin will be along shortly

 

Well if it's making a racket it's got enough gas to apparently turn it on if it's actually coming on and if it doesn't have enough gas to turn on then it won't and it won't make a racket. So that's basically where you are with not having a belt and a clutch and all these things that are regular air conditioner has. You're only left with an electric motor that is your compressor two lines and some valving which have not much to do with noise making. Being low on gas could make it run into Oblivion and burn up but most people hear it before that happens and if they heard it before they generally know what their compressor sounds like and all of a sudden it's running twice that speed they know to turn it off and seek some possible professional help.

 

A couple things. One is, if the compressor is making noise it's usually because something inside is worn and there's parts hitting each other. That makes metal bits and debris that can clog the system. If the compressor is bad I usually replace the condenser as well, and flush out the hoses.

The second is the possible contamination from pag46 oil. All I can say is- do you feel lucky? I personally haven't tried or seen problems from that, but if it does cause a fault, it can be very difficult ($$$) to fix.

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And if it’s as loud as I think it is there’s probably a little metallic particles been injected into the condenser

when you takeoff the old compressor pour out the oil, If you see any metal particles at all or even the tiniest little metal flake floating inside the oil

you’re replacing the condenser

of course theoretically for warranty in the most perfect system you’re supposed to flush the entire system of remaining hoses and evaporator and change the expansion valve but we all know that jumps into a 7 1/2 hour Dash removal not many people like to do that.

if you have the refrigerant recovered and find out that the refrigerant is low.

for example the sticker says it takes 480 g

but when the shop recovers the refrigerant and they have the weight removed and find out it’s 200 g

when you pull the compressor off you might find out almost no oil comes out.

because often when compressors are ran low on refrigerant it eject the oil with the refrigerant flow but there’s not enough mass of refrigerant to return the oil back to the compressor.

so nearly the entire contents of the oil capacity of your complete AC system is all oil logged in trapped in the evaporator.

and this is where you need to read about oil balance procedure.


If you look at your site glass. It should be absolutely crystal clear like a diamond and you should be able to look through the glass to the bottom of the Aluminum and it should be bright and shiny

if you see gray or black a slight tinge have coded inside or on the underneath surface of the glass this means your compressor has gotten very very very hot and started burning and breaking down the oil that is spread throughout your system.


And that’s when you get into the proper method by the book of flushing the entire system.

some guys just throw junkyard compressor on there fill it up and it works and they go

and then some other guys do it and they’re not so lucky

how do you feel at playing Russian roulette today.

 

Looks like a special security nut. It vaguely resembles security lug nuts I have seen, but is probably a different diameter, like these:

Wheel Lug Nut kit M12x1.25 Inch Black Spline with Tool suits Many Makes Security Locking | Aftermarket Jeep Parts Australia

Tire places usually have a good collection of the tools for removing those sorts of things. Perhaps one of those shops can help you out?

There is also a slight chance that a universal socket might work, like this:

Gator Grip 3/8 in. Universal Socket with Power Drill Adapter ETC120A - The Home Depot

Otherwise, assuming that is stock, Toyota must have a part number for the needed tool.

 

You don't disturb the wiring there (that's why they used weird screw heads to slow you down). You leave that spot alone and follow the orange cable pigtail to where it has a connector you can unplug.

I think this photo is for a Gen 3, but it's the same kind of arrangement. I think the Gen 2 pigtail is a bit longer.

 

Won a 12-point socket fit there it looks correct I can't tell what size the head is 10 or 12 I didn't realize the AC compressors came without the pigtail.

 

just like with security lug nuts, get a 12pt socket that will closely fit to the head of that bolt and strike it with a hammer for a tight fit then loosen it. A bolt extractor will work too and then replace it with common hex bolts.

my AC compressor on my Camry died recently, it will actually throw a code if it's broken. Mine has lots of broken metal pieces inside (scroll brushes disintegrated)

they look different but the inside is the same for an electric ac compressor.

 

I don't think they officially do come without the pigtail. That's probably more a thing if you are buying from some third-party rebuilder that sells them that way for some reason.

 

My son suggested that those bolts might come off with a pipe wrench, or if the geometry is bad, a basin wrench might also work. Wrench types that a lot of people own but wouldn't generally think of using on a car. In both cases, try them only if you intend to replace the bolts.

 

Those appear to be "torx plus" bolts and would use torx plus sockets to remove them (not driver bits).

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