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Accelerator stopped working - mechanic estimate $$$$$$$$

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by jaw444, Jun 10, 2019.

  1. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    7500 miles per year is not hard on the car per se...

    It's just that over a long period of ownership your fuel savings are (almost) guaranteed to be wiped out by battery replacement costs. You'd get lower lifetime costs by driving a simple thrifty gasser.

    It sounds like you're getting good advice.
     
    #21 Leadfoot J. McCoalroller, Jun 12, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 12, 2019
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  2. jaw444

    jaw444 Member

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    the car and i were towed to Avi on Thursday. The tow was $100 total, about half what i thought.
    it was a shorter route than expected, more surface streets.

    Avi could not get any codes on the car, none showed. This was either because the previous mechanic deleted them and they were not showing up or because inexplicably when i brought the car home Tuesday, the overhead light was left on. it had to be jumped when it was towed.

    So because there were no codes showing up and the car showed no symptoms and it was driving fine, it couldn't be diagnosed or fixed. Despite that, it was more valuable hearing what Avi thought about it than having a useless diagnostic eval that i seemingly had on Monday, he basically said i might as well drive home and wait and see when it will show the problem again.

    There never have been any orange triangles. When the accelerator stopped fully working, there was a beep, which was a sign of caution or something.

    i talked to him about the steering problem or whatever it is since i ran over the road hazard and replaced my tires, end of March, and no one i've taken it to knows what it is or thinks it's anything important, or can fix it. Avi drove my car a lot while i was there. For the steering issue he wanted it to have an alignment to rule out a need for that, given that people vary in their ability to align wheels correctly, and there was a tire place there, there was no charge to me for any of this, though he said if that fixed the problem then i could pay for the alignment.

    It still continued feeling weird, the ride and the drive, i can feel it as a passenger. He said he's willing to figure it out and to fix it. for now, i need to see if the accelerator problem comes up again in the near future, but i was greatly uplifted with having my reported car problem experiences taken seriously.

    Avi said he has Yokohama tires on his car like mine but an older version of them. He looked at my tires and said they're made in the Philippines. He said previously they have been made in the US, he says his are fine. He said some newer tires made by michelin, yokohama and others are now being made with thinner side walls and this gives them a squishy feel at first. maybe it's that. When the problem first started i was going to just put tires i knew to be good on, to get that problem solved, but Yokohama and the tire shop said it looked more like something was wrong with the car, nad yokohama said to take it to mechanics for diagnosis and repair, and if that didn't work, to call him back. The tire shop guy felt sure it was a leaking shock. No one i've taken it to has considered the shock needing replacement.

    Avi said if i want, he could take the wheels off his car and put them on mine, to see if i still have the problem. That is SO COOL. i will do that. i needed to get back home on Thursday but something new happened today that i want to call him about.

    The car drove home yesterday, no problems, not a short drive. plenty of traffic. Friday i wanted to make a short trip to the store and i wondered if it would have 'the problem' (accelerator). When i turned on the ignition. The tire pressure warning light was flashing.

    i took it to the place where i got the tires and asked him to check the pressures on all of them. He said they were all low (33 psi he said). He put them up to 36. The light continued to flash. He said the car had to adjust to the temperature which required a little driving. I drove it for about 3 minutes, light continued flashing, i brought it back, he checked the sensors. He said the right rear sensor was dead or off, he showed me a picture on his computer thing with 3 green sensors and 1 red. He said it was related to the codes being deleted from the other mechanic. He said that could cause this kind of thing. i didn't understand his explanation, not knowing anything about sensors and codes, but he said that deleting the codes could cause things like the flashing tire pressure light, he said as the codes come back, it can cause more of this kind of thing, he said "that's how it starts."

    i don't know what this means. I need to make a pretty long freeway drive today, in a few minutes. i don't know what's wrong with my car. i will try calling Avi later to see what he thinks/knows about this.

    After seeing Avi, i have a mechanic. I greatly appreciate people who told me about him. It's the opposite end of the spectrum of worst mechanic, and all around person. It isn't that things can always be fixed or that cost will never be painful but just feeling like priorities are ethical and all about figuring out what can be figured out. That doesn't grow on trees.
     
  3. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    has the 12v battery been tested? i think he's wrong about the codes causing the tpms light. the monitor battery probably died coincidentally.
    glad you got it to avi!
     
    #23 bisco, Jun 15, 2019
    Last edited: Jun 15, 2019
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  4. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    regarding the 7500 miles a year, it is more important that you drive it almost everyday, than how many miles you put on it.
    if it tends to sit for a week at a time, that's what old hybrid batteries don't like.
     
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  5. jaw444

    jaw444 Member

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    bisco
    Can anyone test my 12V battery health? Just to to an open mechanic? or......? Oh, you mean like when AutoClub came to my house to charge my dead battery and they tested it and gave me a little print out with percentages of things on them, like a cash register receipt? i still have those, but it's been a while since that was done--months? i'll dig those up. Thats something anyone can do, like a gas station that has service?

    what's the monitor battery, in relation to the flashing tpms light?

    Thank you for clarifying about how much driving is needed. i plan now to drive at least a short distance every day, no problem. i just didn't know. i am sorry to say, when the car had about 60K, beginning when the carpool lane stickers for hybrids in CA expired on July 1, 2011, i got a natural gas Civiv with carpool lane stickers and really barely drove the Prius, it mostly sat in the garage from that time until 2013 when i retired from high mile driving job, went back to Prius, sold Civic 2009 which was a really nice car, i hated natural gas because fill stations were few and far between, that didn't work for me. the gas burned up fast. i don't know what toll all that sitting had on the Prius.
     
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  6. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    most auto parts stores will do a free load test and give you a print out of the results. call around, or auto club is fine if it is free.
    each tire has a pressure monitor inside on the other end of the valve stem, run by a long life battery.

    it sends a wireless signal to the computer which lites the dash when the pressure is below set parameters.
    the battery usually lasts 5-10 years
     
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  7. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

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    The crap people make up. A dead TPMS sensor or over or under inflated tire will cause the low pressure warning light to come on. You could clear codes every day, but after a short period of time, if the TPMS will detect a over/under inflated tire or a dead sensor, causing the tire warning light to illuminate. TPMS is illuminated when a 25% difference is detected. If TPMS was reset to learn the tires are 38/35 PSI, the sensors reset to 38PSI will get triggered >=47.5PSI or <=28.5PSI. The sensors reset to 35PSI will get triggered >=43.75PSI or <=26.25PSI.

    Read pages 150-155 of the owners manual. It covers TPMS and how to reset! Remember, everytime you raise/lower the tire pressure from the last rest, the TPMS needs to be reset so it knows the new tire pressure settings.
     
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  8. ChapmanF

    ChapmanF Senior Member

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    I haven't reset mine in a long time. I don't like the huge tolerance before it gives me a warning (26 psi? seriously?), so one day I pumped all the tires up to the max sidewall and said "there! remember THAT!" and then lowered them back to what I normally run. Now it gives me low-pressure warnings earlier, when the pressure is still almost reasonable.

    I haven't seen any evidence that the system is designed to give overpressure warnings at all.
     
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  9. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    The car is in the gen2 part of the forum so if the TPMS sensors are original they would be at least 10 years old. The battery inside your sensor is probably dead. The sensors are like 30 bucks each on Rockauto but you have to have it installed and the new ID number logged in the cars computer for it to work.
     
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  10. jaw444

    jaw444 Member

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    Thanks. What kind of labor is involved in installing one of those? Does it have to be put up on a rack?
     
  11. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Well its inside the tire and includes the valve stem so the tire has to be partly opened up. Then the wheels get rebalanced. The best time to do it would be when you get new tires.
     
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  12. jaw444

    jaw444 Member

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    Thanks -
    so, i just got the new set of tires March 30, yokohamas. I am going to work with Avi on that, he is going to put his wheels with older yokohamas on my car and i can drive it and see if the problem is fixed and if it's fixed, then im going to get some Goodyear Assurance Triple treads and replace the tires with new ones and the sensor can get fixed then, hopefully. If the car is still having the problem, figure out how to get it fixed.

    if the tire has to be opened up to replace the sensor, then does that require getting a new tire (if you already have new tires)?
     
  13. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    No, you would just brake the bead on the out facing part of the tire, unbolt the old sensor that’s part of the tire stem and bolt in the new one. You don’t repair them there are no serviceable parts inside. You replace them and change the codes in the cars computer. Each sensor has its own unique code. The code is on the sensor.

     
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  14. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    just ignore the tpms light and keep an eye on your tires pressure. much simpler - the old fashioned way :cool:
     
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  15. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Didn’t help me when I got a nail in my tire on the highway. Light would have helped though
     
  16. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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  17. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

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    Tire went flat because I needed to replace 2 sensors.
     
  18. bisco

    bisco cookie crumbler

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    what would have happened if the sensor had been working? I've never had a flat on the highway, so don't understand the process
     
  19. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    You aren't understanding the problem.

    The problem is NOT caused by the tires.

    It IS caused because the valve stems which include the senders for the pressure are either missing or damaged.

    YOU DO NOT NEED TO CHANGE TIRES again.
     
  20. sam spade 2

    sam spade 2 Senior Member

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    It allows you to STOP the car before the tire flies apart and damages the body panels.......or throws you into a spin and causes an accident.
    Have you ever seen a tire go bad during a stock car race ??
    Have you NOT noticed all of the tire tread parts on the road from failed semi tires ?