Add an additional 8Kw battery to double the range

If my battery pack goes bad out of warranty (let's say in 2027), and a new pack gets only 30-40 miles again, then the whole car is getting traded. But after 10 years, perhaps it won't cost that much, and maybe Toyota will figure out a way to put a MUCH higher-density pack and reprogram the computer to register the extra range, new SOC limits, IF I agree to spend $5000 on a new pack after 10 years or so.

 

unlikely in both cases, as has been proven with the lift back and pip. best bet is to write it off and buy new.

 

More than likely, if the pack is getting tired, there will be a grid charger solution by then. Either that, or engine maintenance like the Gen 3 needs now.

 

Forgive my ignorance... a grid charger solution for the Prime, like what? Also, not familiar with Gen3, what kind of engine maintenance?

 

There have been issues with early Gen 3s. The PCV valve circuit is permitting some oil into the intake. This results in oil usage. Later on, the head gasket can fail. The best community solution now is to install an Oil Catch Can to capture the oil before it reached the intake.

@Mendel Leisk or @Raytheeagle are much more familiar than I am.

Currently the Hybrid Automotive grid charger only works for NiMH batteries, not Li-Ion. It is a good solution to rebalance & rejuvenate older Prius batteries. @Raytheeagle can comment further.

@jeff652 could let us know if he is working on a design for Li-Ion batteries.

 

Or a Bolt.

 

So, looking at the hybridautomotive website, a grid charger is a wall charger that can (and is designed to) charge slowly past 100% (about 83% SOC) with fan on to rebalance individual cells, discharge below 0% (about 10%? SOC) to restore some battery chemistry, and then recharge again, and then repeat a few times per year.

 

I wouldn't recommend a BEV that can not cover the entire range of the person's typical daily drive cycle. There is the risk of the work place charging not being available, and my main concern is the additional deep charge and discharge cycle wear on the battery. Which leaves the Bolt and Model 3 as the only options for the OP at this point.

The only company talking about upgraded batteries for older models is Tesla. Everybody else would rather you bought a new car instead of a battery.

Of course, it will be lower in 10 years than whatever it costs now, but that doesn't help the OP.

 

For full reconditioning one of the dischargers is needed too.
The system is more than just a charger. @Raytheeagle , @jerrymildred or @jeff652 can explain further.

 

Right. You need a discharger along with the charger to get the full benefit. @jeff652 sells them together for a bit less than individually, iirc.

Jeff explains it well in one of the FAQs on his web site:

"As time progresses, the battery will start to degrade and the cells will fall out of sync with each other. Results of this degradation include:

(1) usable cell capacity is reduced

(2) cells drift out of balance with each other (voltage delta).

The speed of this deterioration is determined by a variety of factors, including vehicle make/model, climate, driving habits, variation in battery cell construction, and more.

This battery deterioration means that the individual cells within the battery pack can have a different charge level and capacity - they are no longer 'in sync' with each other. Some cells can be 'full' while other cells in the same battery pack are 'empty'. The overall battery pack performance is limited by the vehicle's battery management system to the weakest cell when discharging and the strongest cell while charging. As a result, the wider the cell imbalance, the narrower the usable range of the hybrid battery becomes. The car's battery management system uses only a limited range of the battery cells actual physical capacity (80%-40% for Toyota and 80%-20% for Honda). As the usable capacity decreases and the cells become further and further out of balance with each other, the vehicle us able to use less and less of the batteries actual capacity. The vehicle cannot correct this imbalance problem on its own. The car cannot force the cells back into balance with each other."​

 

Did anyone notice that running only in HV mode, the Prime exceeds EPA numbers? The plug-in provides a bonus on top of an exceptionally efficient car. Don’t be an EV-only bigot while being a closeted, garage-hybrid owner with a backup gasser or rental.

Bob Wilson

 

Tell that to @TonyPSchaefer

What is this Thing on the Side of my Prime? | PriusChat

 

That leads to increased battery cost, increased weight, higher suspension cost, lower fuel economy. And most likely, I will not use all that extra battery capacity all the time.

Give me:
1. bit more trunk space (lower that battery),
2. active noise cancellation,
3. and 15% more powerful electric motor.

And if battery cost drops and density increases sufficiently, give me 35-mile range battery. Beyond that, you are making the vehicle more expensive for everybody to cater to small percent of people.

 

He isn't asking for Toyota to put in a larger battery.
He is asking on the feasibility for him to put a second battery into the car himself.

 

I'm reminded of the old joke, "If you have to ask the price, you can't afford it."

Bob Wilson

 

how much does it cost to replace the carbon fibre hatch and double bubble window?

 

$500 + annual collision insurance fee

Bob Wilson

 

Is this true? I've only had my car for 6 days and still trying to learn the best way to get more miles per gallon. I'll have to try this when I go back to work next week. My daily round trip commute 112.6 miles a day.

 

I do a similar length once a week trip. In my personal experience, I drive in EV only mode until it runs out and then when the ICE kicks in, I do mild hypermiling techniques even though it does very well by just driving it. Note, the first 20 miles of each leg are at 40-45 mph so EV is great. If you can charge at both ends of your trip leg, you'll save more gas. Unless it's like the 12° weather we had for a while, I try to avoid using the heater until the ICE comes on. This is not necessary, but it gives me more EV range.

 

I am sure the seat heater helps until you turn on the heat in the cabin.