Aircon Warm Air!

First check all the fuses for the fans.

John (Britprius)

 

I am working on some tests for you to do, but this may take me a little while. This is almost certainly something as simple as an "earth" connection not fitted, a connector plug not plugged in, or a damaged wire.

John (Britprius)

 

A CV joint will be noisey on a full lock and generally not in a strait line, but if we may can we come back to that?

Test to carry out on the fans:-

Remove the cover from the fuse box under the bonnet. Inside you will see a number of relays (small coloured boxes).
Remove by pulling the fan3 relay (very small blue relay with larger grey and brown relays either side).
Look at the connector blades on the bottom of the relay, (should be 2 copper coloured and 2 silver).
Identify which terminals the copper blades push into in the fuse box, (should be the 2 nearest front of car).
With nothing turned on and no keyfob in the car carefully join these two terminals in the fuse box together with a short piece of wire or a paper clip. You should hear the fans run.

If the fans run report back.

If not:-
With your meter turned to the 20 volt or higher DC scale.
Check between each of the terminals that you connected together one at a time (but with the connection now removed) and a good clean "earth" chassis bolt on the engine or bodywork. One of the terminals should read around 12 volts. If not report back.

John (Britprius)

 

The HAZ fuse will work with a 30 amp fuse but should be changed to a 10 amp as this is a safety device to protect the wiring.
If there was no 12 volt supply on one of the two connectors close to the front of the car, this strongly implies a blow 30 amp fuse (possibly marked CDS FAN 30A) in the fuse box under the bonnet.

The reason I say possibly is because I only have the US wiring diagram, but there is no technical reason for it to be different to the UK and everything else I have done with this circuit diagram has proved it to be correct.

Do not interfere with the other two connectors as these are controlled by the ECU and you could possibly cause damage.

Below is the circuit diagram.
If you look at the relay marked fan3 relay on the far right of the circuit you will see from terminal 5 a white wire if you follow this you will see it goes directly to the CDS fuse this is in the same box as the relay so the chance of the wire being broken is near zero.

The green wire on terminal 3 goes to the fan motor. Joining the terminals together turns on the fan, but if there is no 12 volt supply on terminal 5 the fan has no supply.

To sum up there must be a 12 volt supply on one of those two terminals. Please do not touch the other two.
If there is no supply the very strongest contender is a blown (or missing) 30 amp fuse in the CDS position since the wire from the fuse to the relay can only be a few inches long and is within the fuse box.


John (Britprius)

 

One more test for you to try. This will really tie things down. Start with things the same as in post 28, no fob in car fan3 relay removed.

Strip both ends of a short piece of wire (flex) about 8 to 12 inches long (not critical).
One stripped end twist the copper strands and fold over.
The other end fold all the strands of copper back except one leaving it sticking out.
Push the twisted folded end of the wire into one of the terminals that the copper blades on the relay push into (one of those nearest the front of the car).
Next touch the single strand of copper wire on the other end of the wire to the jump point under the red cover. (The single strand will act as a fuse if there is a problem) and there may be a small spark nothing to worry about.
Listen for the fans starting. You will hear them they are very noticeable.
If they do not repeat the process on the other terminal near the front of the car, and listen again.
The fans will only run on one of the terminals not both.
Under no circumstances connect to the terminals that the silver blades on the relay connect to!!!! If your worried you might do this cover them with a lump of blue tack or tape.

Report back if the fans run or not.

John (Britprius)

 

Not all of the fuse positions will be filled as this depends on the particular model and accessories fitted to the car. For example fog lights fitted on the Tspirit but not on the T3/T4 and vehicles fitted with HID headlamps use different circuits and fuse setup. You will usually see there are no connections in the holes where the fuses are not fitted.
It is advisable to stay with the correct size of fuse, but in an emergency it should be safe to use the next size up to keep things running, but the correct size fuse should be fitted as soon as possible. A 50amp fuse for example would likely melt the wiring designed to be protected by a 5amp fuse should a fault occure.

John (Britprius)

 

If there is no 12volt supply on the other connector to that which made the fan work it is the 30 amp CDS FAN fuse, the last green fuse of the two together at the end of the row. Now looking at the fuses in my car the left hand row of fuses starting at the top with 7.5amps is correct as isthe right hand row starting at the top goes:-

15amp
10
30 AMP (sound system)
blank (shown as PTC HTR1)
blank (shown as PTC HTR2) The UK cars do not have these.
30 CDS FAN
But the last fuse does not appear to be fitted correctly in your picture (difficult to tell) but this is the problem area. Can you check this very carefully and change the fuse with the 30amp fuse in the same row marked AMP this fuse only works the sound system. Then report back of course you will have to refit the relay.

The good news is the problem is now tied down to this very small area.

John (Britprius)