1. Attachments are working again! Check out this thread for more details and to report any other bugs.

Another coolant/heating problem, this is different...

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Care, Maintenance and Troubleshooting' started by A Plack, May 26, 2019.

  1. A Plack

    A Plack Junior Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2019
    4
    0
    0
    Location:
    Oconomowoc, WI
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Hey guys,
    2009 Prius I purchased in November 2018, that decided to not have any warm air in the cabin and overheat this last January. I parked it and am just getting to the repairs now.

    I took the system apart, and found a number of things wrong:
    1. The belt was on the wrong side of the water pump.
    2. The thermostat was bad (didn't open at or above temp when boiled on stove).
    3. The radiator was not flowing well.
    4. The heater core was flowing fine.

    So I replaced the thermostat and radiator, flushed the system and started the process of bleeding the coolant should be almost complete. Radiator is now flowing very well and the new thermostat opens at 180 as it should.

    When the ICE is running, the heater is now blowing very hot air. However, when the ICE stops, the air becomes cold. I have the climate on Max temperature and the blower fan on high.

    The auxiliary pump is running and seems to struggle when I pinch the line but could that be bad?

    I noticed that the drivers side of the radiator hose is hot, and the passenger side is cool. Could just be the efficiency of the new radiator?

    I am going to keep looking at the bleeding process, but since the air gets hot when the ICE is running, I figure this shouldn't cause a problem when it stops.

    Any ideas?

    Thank you
     
  2. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2009
    2,212
    900
    0
    Location:
    Torrance, CA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    How did you "flush the system"? And Why?

    What do you mean auxiliary pump?
    Where is this auxiliary pump located?
    Where are these lines you were pinching?
    Most helpful if you familiarize yourself with the Prius cooling system. Did you know there are TWO INDEPENDENT cooling loops: Engine and Inverter?
    There are four pumps on the Gen2 (2004-2009):
    engine water pump (belt driven),
    inverter pump,
    CHRS (Coolant Heat Recovery Storage) pump,
    cabin heater core pump.​

    I will take a stab at it, that the heater core pump is bad. I would have expected a DTC to be logged. Have you checked for any codes?
     
  3. A Plack

    A Plack Junior Member

    Joined:
    May 26, 2019
    4
    0
    0
    Location:
    Oconomowoc, WI
    Vehicle:
    2009 Prius
    Model:
    III
    Started with the thermostat and water pump, disconnected the top radiator hose, found the radiator restricted, so I removed all hoses, flushed the system. Pretty standard for those that work on water cooled engines.

    PN 1629021011 Toyota lists this part as "Auxiliary Coolant pump"

    Between the Master brake cylinder and the ABS brake proportioning/actuating valve. Behind and just below the inverter. There are 4 pumps in the system: one mechanical, three electric.

    Between the 1629021011 pump and heater core. Comes from the passenger facing output of the pump.

    While I take some umbrage at the insinuation of ignorance, you don't know me and it is reasonable. Yes, I found it very helpful when I purchased of our first Gen 2 Prius.

    The person before was having a loss of radiator fluid. They thought it was a cylinder head gasket. It turned out to be a bad radiator cap that was causing the fluid to leak by the valve assembly. Replaced the hose, clamps and cap. My assumption is that they tried to use the radiator stop leak and plugged the system because the radiator was not flowing.

    Yes, there are two, but I would classify them as ICE versus Electric as the second loop not only cools the Inverter but also the electric winding in the trans-axle. I also used all three bleeder valves to remove the air from the system. Most people only know of two.

    Yes. But just because there are four pumps does not mean that the heating of cabin requires four pumps. There are only two pumps involved in cabin heat. The mechanical runs during ICE operation. If heat is called for the by ECU, in the cabin, the auxiliary pump keeps the circulation going as I stated before.

    No DTC's recently or I would have reported these but good call as I should have mentioned it. Techstream gives it a clean bill of health for now. The pump IS running as I stated before. I can hear it running, I have isolated the running noise to that pump, and when the hose is pinched, the pump goes faster (cavitation). My guess is that since the current draw of the motor is not high or low, this wouldn't trigger. The pump did flow water, but I never pressure tested it due to the lack of DTCs around it. There were DTCs back in Jan, but they were cleared by the 12v battery's loss of power after 3 weeks in my barn.

    Just to include another point. The valve is working and hoses are connected correctly. The heat storage system is working well on this car and not part of the problem.

    The auxiliary pump is north of $100 so I wanted to run this by the group to see if there is anything I missed. If you have ever worked around the inverter, you know that removing the inverter and changing this pump will involve the bleeding cycle AGAIN. Any Prius mechanic will tell you that to avoid that AGAIN is worth the check. I am lazy enough to just swing the inverter instead of removing the electrical coolant loop, but still, the ICE is the real problem with the air in the system.

    We have three Prius in the family and one hybrid Camry. Prius are all gen 2.

    So, just to ask again. Should I bite the bullet and swap that pump or is there something else I may have missed?
     
  4. exstudent

    exstudent Senior Member

    Joined:
    Jul 11, 2009
    2,212
    900
    0
    Location:
    Torrance, CA
    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    I will assume you flushed w/ municipal tap water, instead of distilled water. Hard water contains minerals which is bad for the engine cooling system.
    How do you plan on restoring a 50/50 mix to retain the optimal boil-freeze protection?

    You come to a public forum seeking answers. As with any public forum (physical or virtual), you never know what will happen your what you will get.
    There are online, PAID services that will provide you the level of service you apparently want. Ask a mechanic online and get answers to your car questions
    You don't need to know me, and I don't need to know you; we will continue to live happily ever after.

    Partially correct. Engine water pump, heater core pump, and a working 3-way coolant control valve are required for cabin heat.

    INCORRECT. 16290-21011, "auxiliary coolant pump" is the CHRS (Coolant Heat Recovery Storage) pump.
    IT IS NOT INVOLVED IN CABIN HEAT. It is activated for 30 seconds upon READY, and 30 seconds upon shutdown. For simplicity, this pump help reduce emissions by circulating hot engine coolant from the CHRS "thermos" to the engine block, to reduce warm-up time, reduce gas consumption, thereby reduce emissions. Review the service manual to verify this for yourself.

    PN 87200-47030, "pump assembly, water (for heater) is the heater core pump.

    As I stated earlier,
    The chain of events you describe (inferred below), logically point to this heater core pump being a likely suspect.
    Engine is running and at operating temperature.
    HVAC is set to HOT and ventilation fan speed is on low-med-high.
    You report no DTCs

    Engine stops running and stays off. The HVAC will blow cold air in short time. I infer that the heater core pump is NOT pumping the hot engine coolant, into the heater core. Only when the engine is running is HOT coolant flowing into the heater core.

    A defective 3-way coolant control valve (DTC P1121) can cause lack of cabin heat; but you had heat initially and you report no DTCs.
    However, the heater core pump failure seems to be rare. Also, you say
    Both hoses should be similar temperature, when engine operating temperature is reached.

    RULE OUT AIR remaining in engine loop before suspecting heater core pump (since this pump seems to be a very low failure part).

    Read Post #16 (and the three embedded links) and Post #19. It may help you purge any air, if there is any still left.
    Inverter coolant and engine coolant flowing through the same radiator? | PriusChat
     
    #4 exstudent, May 29, 2019
    Last edited: May 29, 2019
  5. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2018
    2,912
    1,496
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    If someone did use stop leak could it have blocked the pump vanes?
     
  6. Patrick Wong

    Patrick Wong DIY Enthusiast

    Joined:
    Mar 8, 2008
    18,200
    6,464
    0
    Location:
    Green Valley, AZ
    Vehicle:
    2015 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    It appears that A Plack correctly described the location of the heater core pump while exstudent provided the correct part number for that pump. Based upon the symptoms, I would suspect the heater core pump.

    A Plack can determine whether it has failed by applying 12VDC to the pump wiring harness socket to see if the pump runs or not. I agree that the pump is not easy to get to, since the inverter has to be removed or at least raised up for access. As the price for that pump approaches $500, you want to ensure that the pump really has failed before buying a replacement.

    It is also interesting that A Plack reported the serpentine belt was on the wrong side of the coolant pump, which means the pump was running in the wrong direction, hence the flow of coolant was backwards. I don't know how it was possible to put the belt on the wrong side unless a longer than correct belt was utilized. Just to be clear, the outside surface of the serpentine belt should be contacting the engine coolant pump pulley.
     
    #6 Patrick Wong, May 29, 2019
    Last edited: May 29, 2019
  7. Skibob

    Skibob Senior Member

    Joined:
    Sep 14, 2018
    2,912
    1,496
    0
    Location:
    Northern California
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    He could always buy a used pump. I don’t think they fail all that much and my guess is stop leak caught in the vanes