Another Oil-Catch Can Install (moroso) - with Pics & theory.

There's really not much you can do if it's a piston ring issue, but if you are burnt out about it, why not just keep it filled with oil and not worry about it. Maybe run a cat cleaner product a few times a year. I had a Saturn that burned oil for over 120k miles, by the time I sold it for $100 (had a fully rusted out exhaust) it was burning a quart every 500 miles but still ran like a top.

My CT200h with 200k and a catch can burns a lot of oil and I'm not really overtly concerned about it, still expecting another 100k. I'll try some engine/piston ring cleaning products, but I'm not really expecting that to fix it. If I can find a good deal on another car maybe I'll take the engine out and try to re-ring it, but there's no need to park it.

 

The EGR clogs just fine prior to oil consumption commencement.

and yeah: they should have tested the 3rd gen EGR system. Instead, we’re their testers.

and the oil consumption is due to low-friction piston rings: got Toyota minuscule more mpg brownie points.

 

Oil consumption is a tricky business. We want to believe that it is a PCV valve, gasket leaks, etc. But 99% of case is usually clogged/caked piston rings and piston return holes from doing too long oil change interval or low-quality engine oil. Toyota dealership does not always use Toyota Original oil 0W-20, often they use whatever cheapest 0W-20 they can get from any suppliers. Kendall, Shell, Pennzoil, etc. and often they are not fully synthetic oil. So, 10k miles/1 year oil change interval is often the culprit.

 

This is where I installed mine. Just a lot easier to access when doing an oil change and being incognito at the same time

 

I would delete all those extra* band clamps, and swap the current hoses for 3/8" ID SAE30R7 fuel hose (readily available by the foot at automotive retailers. The band clamps are unecessary with barb connectors, actually detrimental to hose life. And the fuel line is more durable, less prone to kink/collapse.

* Do retain and use the two original clips, at the two ends of the (cut) original PCV hose.

 

I don't think it makes any significant difference because the culprit is EGR exhaust lines. The most effective way is repipe the EGR after the catalytic converter to reduce sticky carbon like 4th gen. 90% of the fluid in catchcan is water and harmless. I prefer to just clean the intake manifolds and EGR lines everey 75k miles and make sure they are all not clogged.

 

With my 2 cans in series, first is about 80% oil, second mostly water, maybe 70%

 

The EGR passages are always clogged with oily goo so thank the piston rings and 10k oil changes. After reviewing everyones spark plugs on here I was thinking the "corona interference" was causing the burnt spark plugs, but you can see more build up on pistons 1 and 2's spark plugs threads all the way up to the lower body. So it looks like the car knocks hard enough for 20-30k miles thats actually blowing past the compression washers on the spark plugs. Every knock whether small or large or at start up is just one more point towards head gasket failure. So it sounds like toyota has a very impressive head gasket and a very mediocre EGR system and rings and the worst knock sensor system I think I've ever seen on a modern car.

 

There may be some conflation there, though oil burning can’t help the situation. Our 2010’s dipstick level NEVER budges, but the EGR cooler (and the rest) was coking up just fine.

I’d blame a shortsighted design of the EGR system, things like where the exhaust gasses come in (upstream of Cat), the amount of gas they allow through, inadequate cross sectional area of the EGR components. 2015’s with revised piston rings still have EGR issues I think.

They couldn’t have beta tested it sufficiently; they all clog.

 

To be fair Mendel when you say that you should say how many miles are on your car. If you did 5k oil changes and only have 60k miles you shouldn't even be at stage 1 on the oil consumption issue.
To keep this catch can related my catch after 500 miles now has about 2-3 ounces of water in it. No oil at all. So its interesting to note how well the water in the blowby condenses in the winter.

 

Isn't that true of most if not all other engines with EGR of the same or earlier design vintage?

 

Not sure. Our previous Honda Civic Hybrid (2006) had an aluminum component, about the size of a fist. I didn't have a clue what it was, 'till EGR issues came to roost with the Prius. I took a look at the Civic component (car was still in the family); it was very simple, a little sooty inside.

 

The new Toyota T24A-FTS has no seperate egr system so thats nice. I think they know EGR systems don't work and its better to just use a larger cat for controlling emissions now. There's a reason why you hear EGR delete a lot on tons of different models of cars. Its an unreliable system. My ls400 and sequoia neither have egr so thats nice. The ls400 actually has it, but it uses the vvti to introduce egr back into the cylinders and doesn't use a seperate pipe.

 

Just getting into spark plug change on ours (hey, it’s been 12 years, and 96k kms…), and going to do the EGR and intake clean as well. Bottom of intake still “oily”, but not a lake. You can see one of the two Moroso cans below.

 

Number the spark plugs and give us a picture. It'll be interesting to see someone who is doing our new adjusted maintenance schedule from the beginning.

 

Again already? What pressure were you seeing reported by the EGR restriction Mode 6 test?

 

I wonder how the car would like post cat EGR since that was their solution before deleting it entirely.