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Another P0420 story...help!

Discussion in 'Gen 2 Prius Main Forum' started by zzzzzzzz, Feb 18, 2022.

  1. zzzzzzzz

    zzzzzzzz Junior Member

    Joined:
    Aug 21, 2011
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    Location:
    Portland Oregon
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    N/A
    I just recently purchased an 06 Prius with 187k miles. Had the PA0A80 and P0420 code. First replaced the 12V, still had the PA0A80 and red triangle of death so I pulled the traction battery out and had it re-built with a local shop here. Turned out the battery was already re-built and had about 10 very low capacity modules, so they just replaced all modules with ones they've already cycled and verified for self-charging rate etc. Anyways, reinstalled battery and it's been running great, getting 48 mpg.

    I've since been struggling with the P0420. I've done so far:

    - changed oil (oil was black, and was above the full mark on the dip stick, was changed by Walmart over 7000 miles ago). I used Chevron Supreme dino 5-30W and slightly less then 4 quarts.

    - changed plugs (plugs were likely original, very ashy. One plug had the ceramic chipped) with Toyota plugs 9008091184

    - changed 02 sensor with Denso 234-4623

    - poured in a bottle of Techron in gas tank and filled it up

    - cleaned MAF

    - inspected PCV and was going to replace it but it rattled fine, so I just cleaned it and re-installed

    - last thing I've done now is replace the A/F sensor with Denso 234-9056

    So P0420 still comes up, after 15 miles or so. Granted I don't drive this car very often as it's not my commuter (yet). I was planning on driving it and maybe if the cat was clogged w oil, that I can burn off any deposits, or will that not work? After that, my next plan of action was install an 02 spacer (already have). The cat also is aftermarket (was stolen previously). I want to get this passing emissions so I can install the cat shield; installing the cat shield requires me to rivet it on so I'd rather not drill out those rivets if I have to continue messing w the cat. Also, upstream voltage has been around 4V but now at idle its around 3.3 ish w downstream voltage looks like around .94 ish.

    I posted my dilemma also on Reddit (no responses yet).
     
  2. mr_guy_mann

    mr_guy_mann Senior Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
    Model:
    Four
    IF:
    there are NO exhaust leaks (not even a pinhole) from the cylinder head to 18" past the downstream oxygen sensor; AND the engine runs normally (NO misfires plus fuel trims are 0 +/- 10% at idle and while driving); AND both the upstream air-fuel and downstream oxygen sensors can read full range rich-to-lean; (also no TSB's from the manufacturer concerning a P0420);

    THEN I replace the catalytic converter to resolve a low cat efficiency code.

    I have seen OE cats go 200-300k plus miles without setting codes. I have seen AfterMarket cats throw codes after a couple months. If the AM part sells for 25% or less than the OE, I can only imagine that it has much less precious metal than the OE.

    That said, something is wrong with your car- I typically see the downstream O2 sensor read ABOUT 700-800 mV when the cat is hot and "lit off". 940 mV is high- esp if it stays there, that's reading fully rich. You would need to see what fuel trims are doing and figure out what's going on. Maybe that O2 sensor is lying. Maybe the upstream A-F sensor is lying. Maybe something else is wrong that's causing the engine to run rich.

    I wouldn't think that sensor "spacers" would work on this car. Spacers "help" by creating a pocket of stagnant exhaust gas around the tip of the O2 sensor. This slows its response, which can "fool" some older ECMs that compared the lean-rich switching rates of the upstream vs downstream O2 in order to test the cat function.

    The prius (and most newer cars) use a test called Oxygen Storage Capacity (OSC). Google it if you want to know more about it, but a spacer isn't going to affect that type of test much.

    Good luck.

    Posted via the PriusChat mobile app.
     
    #2 mr_guy_mann, Feb 20, 2022
    Last edited: Feb 20, 2022
    Ernie stires likes this.
  3. drone13

    drone13 Active Member

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    Location:
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    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Two
    I'm not sure if you logged the upstream and downstream O2 sensors but if not, that is the best way to determine if the cat is outside it's efficiency range. Since you replaced both O2 sensors with new (and other parts) and if you have no exhaust leaks as Mr_guy_mann suggested, you will need to log the O2 data and compare them. If both signals look pretty much the same with a very slight delay for the rear (being the rear and farther down the exhaust stream) that is a pretty clear indication the cat is not doing a good enough job. I'm not sure if you're just taking quick reads of the data, like on a dashboard in Torque or if you have logs for over a period of time to evaluate after the drive. I know for me, reading the dashboard for fast signals like the O2 sensors was worthless.

    If logging the data, make sure you are sampling fast enough. 500ms or 1sec intervals are good enough time intervals to show accurate data, but it's important not to use collecting data by PID frame since that will alias the fast signal data and not be very useful. Since the Prius is a strange creature turning on and off the engine often it is very helpful to also capture data for RPM and vehicle speed so you can see when the engine is off or on and when you're at a stop. Seeing the rear O2 drop to 0 on a gas engine vehicle would be alarming, but on a Prius is completely normal when the engine turns off which it does often.

    There might be better, but I found OBD Fusion to be my app of choice for data logging. I just had a lot better results than something like Torque when only using a BT OBDII adapter. I don't have an expensive scantool that can log data, which would likely be even better. You can use datazap.me | Fast, Free, Interactive Datalogs on the web for quick and dirty looking at the log. That site can turn the raw .csv data file into a graph for your analysis and you can post it here for others to comment on.

    The things you've done and the parts you've changed so far are good things for any older vehicle, but it's time to do the tests to give you the actual answer so you can address the actual issue.

    Good Luck
     
    PriusPaddler likes this.
  4. zzzzzzzz

    zzzzzzzz Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
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    N/A
    Thanks everyone so far for your help and suggestions. I'm definitely are not adept to read the voltage graphs with and without load etc. My brother has a 2004 Prius as well with no CEL, so I think another tool to help me would be to check out his car with Torque and see what kind of patterns there are. I'm now leaning towards just accepting that I purchase another aftermarket cat to replace the aftermarket cat the PO installed. And, looking at the cat it appears to be the cheapest one on Amazon, evident by the end welds on the cats themselves:

     
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  5. drone13

    drone13 Active Member

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    Two
    That sounds like a good decision. You've done what you are comfortable doing and a new cat sounds like a good solution. Being that the one on the car now is an aftermarket, and they are notorious for going bad fairly quickly, a new cat will likely solve your problem at least in the short term. The more expensive aftermarket cats will typically last much longer than the cheap cats so keep that in mind when you're looking. BTW, have you put enough miles on the car now after the oil change to see if you have an oil consumption problem? In your reddit post you said you only put on 150mi since you did your work and I suggested you monitor your oil consumption to see if you're burning oil. If you're burning a lot of oil you can expect a short life for a new cat. But a reasonably good aftermarket cat (not the real cheap ones) should at least get you past the inspection test in Oregon. Good luck
     
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  6. qmanqman

    qmanqman Active Member

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    Vehicle:
    2007 Prius
    Model:
    One
    There are two O2 sensors. Change the other one.
     
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  7. zzzzzzzz

    zzzzzzzz Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
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    N/A
    I did change both the downstream O2 and upstream A/F. CEL came back.

    But to give an update on this, I went ahead and installed the 90 degree and extended spacer on the O2 sensor and CEL didn't come back on, and "catalyst" check is ready. So I could essentially DEQ it. Monitoring the voltages, B1S2 is definitely stable now at around .8V'ish (trickery!). The question now, just DEQ it and keep driving like this, and maybe worry about replacing the cat later (which I've already received and it's now sitting in my garage)? What is the likelihood of the O2 sensors (which are now new) getting contaminated so much that they would just completely fail with the cat working correctly?

    I'm asking because I still have to install the cat shield (when is pending on next steps).
     
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  8. zzzzzzzz

    zzzzzzzz Junior Member

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    Emissions passed. So I'm going to register the car as is.

    And I've decided to install rivet nuts and torque in bolts, that way I can remove the shield if I have to replace the cat eventually.

    Eh.
     
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  9. Kentucky Gen2

    Kentucky Gen2 Junior Member

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    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
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    Can you please share the spacer info? I can’t find them on eBay and need to do this as well. Thank you.

     
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  10. Scott Wiesler

    Scott Wiesler New Member

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    Vehicle:
    2008 Prius
    Model:
    Base
    or you could go my route, I was starting to throw the same codes added cat cleaner and that kicked the can down the road. Then I parked it by the train station in Chicago and it was stolen. Now I have a new cat and no more codes....
     
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  11. zzzzzzzz

    zzzzzzzz Junior Member

    Joined:
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    Location:
    Portland Oregon
    Vehicle:
    2006 Prius
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    N/A
    Over the weekend I decided to replace the cat with an aftermarket one. One of the motivators I think was that I would constantly smell burning oil smoke whenever I used fresh air circulating on the HVAC. Also, every time I'm coming down a long descent, a large plume of smoke from behind will follow me. I believe this is when the car engine kicks in at high RPM to bleed off overcharge. Probably another attributor was the rear O2 extended out with that right angle spacer, so I was likely running very rich.

    But since replacing the cat (with a good reviewed one), there has been no smoke in the cabin or from behind, and I've actually seen my MPG increase about 3-4 MPG (so far). And no CEL with the O2 sensor installed in the right spot. Attached are some pics, including one showing the baffles on the old cat (looks OK but probably gummed up internally). I assume if the old cat was clogged, that would explain smoke fumes going back into the engine area due to back flow of exhaust?

    So, now to sell the old cat. Local recycler right? Thanks.

    Old cat "stolen" by me:
    IMG_3153.JPG

    New cat installed (got super lucky that it slipped right in). Just used the provided clamps, so no welding for now.
    IMG_3156.JPG

    Black baffles?
    IMG_3160.JPG

    My lovely emissions concoction:
    69060247018__4D3711BE-4626-4529-A4EA-DA3F97D18939.JPG