another thermistor hack

Re: thermistor hack

Being that this thread is about 2 years old and this is your latest update, can you please let us know what type of electrical circuit had you adopted and if you can post a copy if it so other people can have as a reference.
Thank you

 

Re: thermistor hack

In your post you say:


2) The capacitors on the diagram should be 66 not 660

The original diagram labels the caps @ 680uf (not 660), now you're telling us that it should be 66uf. I'm only asking b/c I want to make sure I do it right the first time.

9) This hack is infinitly superior to a simple manually adjusted pot, as said hacks need to be trimmed all the time, but there are now even better once based on microcontrollers out there.[/QUOTE]

I agree it is infinitely superior but, I would like to get my hands on one of the microcontroller versions. Any idea how to get ahold of ccdisce? I emailed and pmailed him with no joy.

 

I have an 08 Hilander I am interested in doing this with but I have no idea about electronics. I'm fairly handy and good with cars but this is like Greek to me. Is there a more basic explanation of how to do this with pictures of the step by step. I can definitely follow recipes. Thanks guys.

 

Mmmmmmm, keep cooking my friend.

 

Re: thermistor hack

Back a few pages in this thread, post#11, that's the circuit I designed and used, circuit diagram is in the post. (as well as a pic of the actual installed gizmo, and the nifty little enabled/disabled switch).

As I mentioned I used slightly different caps than in the diagram. You do not need to match the capacitor values exactly, the circuit will work with a large range of values. The higher the cap value, the longer your car must be off to reset the system. Too low a cap value, and the system can start to spoof before the minimum engine temp is reached.

I was asked if there was a "how to" video or more detailed instructions, alas no. Some electronic knowledge and ability is probably required to put this together properly and test its functionality before you connect it to a car, (some knowledge required to conect it too) Improperly put together or installed, there are ways to ruin your car, so if you don't understand it, don't do it. In particular you must ensure that the system doesn't spoof too early, and that it doesn't prevent the car from seeing an overheat condition, and that you don't short out you electronics.

This was done for an 06 hihi. I have no idea if it would work on an 08, there are subtle differences.

Micro processor versions are better if you can find a built one to buy. I've built microprocessor doohickies, I built this without as it was faster and easier to do. The "programming" is all in the resistors and transistors. Two resistors create reference voltages V1 and V2.
Transistors create logic: If engine is warmer than V1, then spoof to V2. If engine is warmer than v2, do nothing.

You will be fine with this circuit unless you're driving a phev, then you need the microprocessor option. (A regular hybrid engine will typically stay warm, whearas a phev engin can cool back down far enough that one should stop spoofing

 

How did you make "yours" mr big????????????

 

I know this is an old thread, but still relevant to new owners. For this (and all of the processor-controlled thermistor hacks), where are the connection points on a GEN3 Prius?

Thanks!

 

Marv,

Have a look over at the thread that Thilo started when he installed a one of my ECT Spoofers.

ECT Adjuster on Gen3 Prius | PriusChat


ccdisce.

 

Thanks! Still like to get one of those when available.

By the way, I see you never got an answer to the grommet question. I'm sure others have solved this another way for the Gen3 and not posted, but here's what I did.

Getting to the firewall is nearly, if not, impossible up high on the driver's side, which is where the ECU is located. I jacked up the car and took some looks around the lower firewall from the outside and from the floor inside. I thought the hood release cable might be a likely candidate, but it's not really accessible where it goes through the wall.

I was able to run a wire, presumably for the switch, from the switch panel up the inside of the driver's door seal across to a channel that runs into the driver's side front fender over the wheel well.

Popped off 4 little press fasteners and loosened the plastic lining along the top of the wheel well. Shoved the wire out through a little round hole at the front of the wheel well and kept pushing. It came out right at the front of the ECU.

There is perhaps an inch of exposed wire across the inside of the upper door frame/sill, about mirror height, but a piece of masking tape painted to match the body color would easily hide it if it bothered you. I wouldn't even take notice of it. I used a really thick phone wire too, since it's what I had available with enough length and stiffness to serve as a snake.

 

I realize this is a long shot by a galaxy far away lol but are you still around @jstcd ?! Did you ever encounter any problems with the circuit you designed for your 2006 HiHy? Or ever install a microprocessor version? Any chance you still have said vehicle? I purchased an 06 HiHy 11/2020 with 110K miles and am in great need of this fuel efficiency benefit and would be willing to pay for your time if that is an option please?! via any method preferable to you as I understand fully privacy and safety concerns in this day and age. Any chance you’re located in the states on the west coast aka CA well either way or not at all, the information you’ve provided and time already dedicated to sharing your expertise is greatly appreciated and invaluable! I hope my offer of fee does not offend you as I have neither the knowledge nor time to learn what you already possess and thought perhaps incentivizing may help encourage additional help from you thank you again regardless for your contributions