Another thread, another oil change...

G2 Pius takes exactly 3.6 quarts with a new dry oil filter.

Go to a Toyota dealer and buy a few of there filters there $4 each.

Be aware the Jiffy lube joints database shows the G2 takes 5 quarts which will leave it quite a bit overfilled many posts on here of engine issues after Jiffy lube oil change becasue of this..

Go to walmart buy there 5 quarts jug of Mobil 1 10-30 for $24.95.

Take exactly 1.4 quarts out of that jug and save it. After 2 oil changes you almost have enough for a free oil change.

bring jiffy that jug that now has 3.6 quarts and your new filter and they cant F it up to bad. This is what I do when foreced to use them.. Never any drama.

I would also given the age of the car buy a new oil pan bolt. They are easily stripped. Duke the jiffy guy $5 and have him install that new bolt after he dumps it. My bought new 07 has seen about 20 oil changes so far and I have replaced the pan bolt a few times over the years very cheap insurance against stripped out pan Bolt at dealer is $6.

My jiffy charges $20 with a coupon you supply the oil & filter. Your good for at least 10,000 miles or a year.

And lastly new poster with newly purchased G2 sometimes they become oil eating little monsters. You have to determine how monsterly it is.

Check the oil in the morning before starting the car theirs alot of oil stored in the cylinder head VVT vane and takes a few hours to drain back. Check the oil every few days till you get a handle on how much oil it eats or if any and keep it at the full line always.
I still check the oil every Saturday on my cars.
'
Good luck and Happy motoring.

 

^ Can't add or take away from that.....except that I usually change the oil more often than 10,000 miles.
As long as you're monitoring your burn rate and keeping tabs on other maintenance items you're going to be just fine.

Good Luck!

 

There is. It is a publication called the Owner's Manual.

 

And just as importantly on a 15+ year old car with 182k miles on it, CHECK it often and CHANGE it every 5k. End of chart.

 

What’s an owners manual?

 

You don't pre-soak your new filter ?

 

Describing exact oil capacity.

 

I do too but didn't want to get to ocd with the guy. Gave him a good start.

 

Dry, meaning no oil in the filter? How much would it be with oil pre-soak in the filter?

 

The owner's manual has 9.6 fl oz (.3 qt) as the quantity held by the filter if you look at the 'with' and 'without' filter quantities.

With filter ........ 3.9 qt
Without filter ... 3.6 qt

But really, just measure out the 0.9 qt and fill the filter from that, then put the rest into the oil filler and top up with 3 qts. It doesn't need to be hard.

Personally, I don't bother, I just put the filter on dry and put the entire 3.9 qt (which is 3.7 L for me) into the oil filler. A quick run of the engine at idle to get the filter filled and it is done.

Run the engine for a couple of days and then check the oil level. Top up as required, but usually topping up is not necessary as it is right on the top mark. For some reason, if you run the engine straight after filling for a couple of minutes and then wait 5 - 10 min for it to settle, it will read low, so if you top up then you run the risk of overfilling. Stick to the measured quantities and you won't go far wrong.

 

I've never pre-filled oil filters. Maybe it's good, not sure. Never seen a shop manual advocate to do it.

With a 3rd gen the oil filter is horizontally screwed in, so not even possible.

 

In So Cal you can probably stick with 5W-30, 0W-20 is ok in cooler climates. The only consideration is cost. I believe the 5W-30 is cheaper.

I have only used 5W-30 in mine, full synthetic.

 

Now manufactures advice against pre-filling the oil filter.

If you fill the filter up from the center hole (which is the way people it up) and some peace of trash enters it (most likely something like aluminum peace of oil bottle seal) it will be in the system after the filter. That small peace of aluminum foil can be big enough to stop the oil flowing into some bearing and then the bearing and engine is bad.

Of course many people still pre-fill the filters and problems are very rare. But bearing wear without pre-fill is so small that the small change of engine damage is normally considered to be worse. And most of oil filters are not installed in the way that you could pre-fill them anyways.

If the filter is filled from outside then this is not a problem. In applications where pre-filling is very beneficial (like diesel fuel filters) special tool (like a bolt) that blokes the center hole is used and filter then filled from outside.

 

I've always pre-filled filters (until I got my PiP and Prime), but I know it's really not necessary. I'm just a little OCD sometimes.

 

My Dad taught me to put just enough oil to let it soak in, not fill the canister. Back then, filters were a little bit larger.

 

The size change is a good point. It's amazing how small they are now.

 

Honda's now using the one that used to be in their bikes.