Any thoughts on first oil change interval?

Yeah Hacksaw, I get what you're saying- we drive on the highway for errands and it's 20+ miles each way, plus I rev it up to make sure the engine is getting a bit of a workout; sometimes even in SPORT mode...I think you're right, and they're just trying to soak me at the dealer. I'll go in for the 6 month tire rotation and top off fluids in March (6 months), and then the next oil change in Sept (1 year anniversary). Then will do the same the following year (2025). I'm not gonna let them get to me.

 

why do you do the initial change so early? is it damaging to the car if you wait til 5k for the initial oil change?

i just hit 5k and scheduled maintenance for a week from now…is this bad?

i did notice around 3k or so that the motor did not sound as smooth and clean as it did initially…nothing abnormal, but just not as perfectly smooth

 

If it was damaging to the car, the manufacturers would be calling for it. They are the ones that pay for warranty work.

Decades ago, the manufacturing process was not as precise. Parts weren't as perfectly matched. That lead to much more wear metals in the oil than are seen today. Then an early oil change might have warranted. It was also the time when oil needed to be changed much sooner too. But things progress and improve.

Some people still do 3000 mile oil changes, and early first oil changes are still done by others. This is propagated by dealerships and oil shops that want to make money.

 

Unfortunately, I disagree with your first sentence; I believe in this thread there's a whole video from a guy that's an expert on oils and the amount of shavings that come off a new engine; he says that within the first 1000 miles you should do your first oil change. From there, you can follow the manufacturer's recommended timeline, but that first 1000 miles is crucial to having a car (especially a Toyota) last for multiple thousands of miles. He has the science to back it up, also. I spent $ 80.00 (with a coupon) for the oil change; the next service at 5k will be tires rotated and fluids, then the 10k oil change at one year (at Toyota's expense); rinse and repeat for year 2 for 15k fluids and 20k 2nd oil change for free.

 

The used oil analysis reports linked here aren't showing any shavings. Those results are measured in ppm, or mg/L. Those are microscopic specs that are possibly too small for the filter to catch. There will be higher wear metals in the oil of a new engine, and it will take multiple changes before the reach normal, but there will always be some.

 

i've scheduled next saturday for an oil change with new oil filter at 1k miles. i may do one or two topside oil changes before the it reaches 10k. i figured it shouldn't hurt to remove as much contaminants before it reaches 10k.

 

Changing the filter might be just as effective as sucking the oil out.

 

changing the filter doesn't hurt but the paper filter doesn't catch microscopic particles hence the objective of the topside oil exchange is to remove the microscopic particles and other contaminants.

 

A typical cam shaft bearing clearance is 76 microns. the oil filter can catch down to 30 microns. Anything that gets past the filter is going to float past the parts. Replacing the filter removes one that is mostly clogged with one with a fresh element. It also takes the gunk the old on caught out of contact with the oil. That gunk, and the particles causing oil to turn black, are mostly organic compounds whose main threat is in converting to acids with contact with water.

 

Just changed mine @1034 miles with Valvoline 0/16 synthetic will probably let it go to 10 K for the first dealer change
Maybe not easy to do and 10k seems to long
To me easy break in and first change @1000 miles gives me piece of mind not to pricey filter was about $7
Link for oil https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZCR374M?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

 

Do another change yourself around 5k?

 

I'm coming up on my break in oil change and looking to do it myself. Haven't done it before, but it looks easy. And we're also approaching the spring which means tire changes.

Should I get ramps for oil changes, or a low profile jack and jack stands? I also need to swap my tires so I'm leaning towards the jack stands and jack. My old scissor jack I used for my Matrix tire changes is likely not rated for the prime, as its OEM and I think it had a 1000lb limit. Plus I think the actual pinch weld holder is much narrower than the scissor jack that was included with older primes.

Thoughts?

I was gonna get the Toyota OEM oil and filters at the dealer, its cheap there then I can DIY. With two cars now oil changes add up quick if I pay someone else to do it.

 

Have a look at the oil change link in my signature (on a phone turn it landscape to see signature). It's 3rd gen specific, but still mostly applicable I think.

Going from 3rd to 4th gen the front/central jacking point moved back, from approx 18", to maybe 48~54", roughly inline with the front wheels. The dilemma with that: even if you can manage to roll a floor jack under there, it can be impossible to raise the pump handle sufficient to get started. I'm not sure about 5th gen, but suspect it's still way back there. One work around, if you want to use a floor jack, would be roll the front wheels onto low-rise ramp first, say a couple of layers of 1.5" timber.

Ramps for oil change will also work obviously, but for wheel swaps and brake maintenance, you're going to need to jack it up.

Good things to have:

Floor jack, 3 ton, with decent lift, with both steel and rubber cradles
Wheel chocks, heavy rubber, 4 of them, to place fore and aft of the wheels at the end that stays on the ground
Safety stands, preferably 3 and 6 ton, 4 of each

Another thing to consider: something bulky/solid to keep you company under there, say a section of tree stump, just in case one of your supports fails. It's not always practical, but whenever I can I employ this.

 

Yeah i will need to jack it up, but wondering if I should just grab a scissor jack or the ramp/floor jack combo. The point to raise the vehicle is, for sure, pretty far back I was reading the manual and that's what made me think I should get ramps to begin with.

I was originally planning on just using my existing scissor jack for tire changes but... when I saw the rating, the difference in the size of the lip (its half the size of what I've seen online that came with the gen 4 for example), and the weight difference, I realized I need more than just ramps I also need a jack now.

Maybe I just get a floor jack with an adaptor/cover thing to use it at the pinch weld jack points for tire changes and ramps for oil changes. I'm not likely to be wrenching under my car for anything other than oil for a good long while (if ever), so jacking it up onto jack stands and staying under the car is gonna be a long ways away. I'll be happy just doing oil and tires, maybe other fluids down the line.

 

Any handy scrap lumber around? I find driving up on 2x6 pieces gave me enough space for oil changes with multiple cars.

 

Driving easy is not a good break in. Moderate loading, not high, of the rings to the cylinder walls is more like lapping parts to match. Too light force leads to the parts matching less completely, then they stabilize and stay that way. It’s done metal to metal, no abrasive. Load, let metal points cool, repeat. It has to have some rough justice. The owners manuals are correct. No high steady speeds, no excessive rpm. But not eggshell easy either.
Listen to car care nut, don’t do 10k oil changes. Spending big money on a car and becoming thrifty on oil changes?