Anyone buy a prius or any other car through an auto broker?

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(alleyooptroop @ Dec 21 2006, 05:38 PM) [snapback]365366[/snapback]</div>

A lot of posters are reporting under MSRP prices in December. See this thread http://priuschat.com/index.php?s=&show...st&p=351585

 

I have purchased a lot of cars and recommend two ways to go about this.
1. Go to the agency and see the Fleet Sales People and deal with them ONLY. You will get to see the copy of the invoice, get one price and be out of there in about an hour. No problems, no runaround.
2. Go through a buying service such as Costco. Make an appointment with the designated person, again, ONLY deal with that person. One price, easy and you will be very happy.

I know several managers and owners of agencies and believe me the above is the easiest and you don't have to feel like you are asking someone to do you a huge favor just to save you a few hundred bucks.

 

I believe Windstrings went through a broker and was happy with the experience. I got my last car through a broker and had problems...

1. He charged $600 for an extended warranty which was never created.
2. The car had a bad paint problem. When he saw it, he said, "That looks bad. What are you going to do about it?"

I doubt if you'd have the same problems that I did.

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(alleyooptroop @ Dec 21 2006, 11:23 PM) [snapback]365577[/snapback]</div>

Yes, in my case, I told the broker what options I wanted. He then went to several dealers and found a car. I saved money as he was able to get it at a fleet rate. He got it through a contact in one place, but the actual car was from a dealer closer to me.

In the end I went to a dealer and got them to repaint the car for free. They did it as a gesture of goodwill, but there may have been an warranty involved there.

Going to a broker is easier than going from dealer to dealer, that much is true.

 

I considered using the Costco Auto Buying service but the salesman at the nearby Toyota dealership told me it really wouldn't gain me anything considering the supply and demand status of the Prius. I negotiated for two days and was feeling good that I was about to pay 26,750 for an 07 with package #4. That was the "out the door" price - tax, title, tags included. I was about to leave the office to take delivery when a co-worker asked if I had ever used the Autobytel auto buying service that he always used. I had not. He plugged the request in online and soon got a call from a nearby dealership offering an '07, package #4 for 26K out the door. Armed with that helpful information, I went to my preferred dealer and they reluctantly matched the price. I had to settle for package #5 to get the color I wanted - 27.900 out the door. I bought my co-worker's lunch the following day. For saving me $750, I offered him any menu item at any restaurant of his choosing. He let me off easy, choosing the lunch special at a local seafood joint. $10.00 "out the door".
Cheers, Phil

 

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(jezroj @ Dec 21 2006, 03:36 PM) [snapback]365420[/snapback]</div>

A similar approach is to use a service like Carbargains to do the legwork for you. Carbargains is a service offered by a non-profit agency - the same people that publish the regional Consumers' Checkbook magazines. They tell you exactly how to do what they do and offer their service for those that do not wish to do the work themselves.

Carbargains Service

DIY Carbargains

I recently purchased a 2006 Subaru Legacy GT for my sister and used Carbargains to get the best price. The lowest quote I got was thousands below what any regular salesperson was willing to sell for. I'm not sure if Carbargains is offered outside the areas where Consumer's Checkbook magazine is published - you'll have to call them and ask.

I talked to a broker once and they were getting the same prices as I was through Carbargains. In fact, their list of contacts at the dealerships was same as mine. The difference was the broker then had to add their fee on top, which was about 4x what Carbargains was charging at the time. There may be rare instances where a broker's relationship with a dealership may be able to help them get a car in high demand, but in general, the brokers can't do anything the average person couldn't do themselves, and even if you want someone else to do the work, there are lower priced alternatives.

 

Successful brokers sell hundreds of cars per year. Dealers know it and compete for their business. They give them the best possible prices in order that the brokers will buy the cars from them.

In my experience, it is hard to beat a price that a broker can obtain. Nothing compares to having your new car delivered to your front door and not having to spend countless hours negotiating with tricky sales people to get their the best possible price.

 

Hi!

It is generally good time of year to buy, but I wouldn't wait till exactly the 31st unless you're prepared to take what's on the lot...Dealers can swap with other dealers if they don't have what you want, but might take 1-2 business days to get the car swapped...

Here's some thoughts on negotiating with car dealers....I don't buy cars often, but I do negotiate larger purchases at my job regularly.....Negotiating is more an art and less a science, but I believe the best way to get a good deal is to have done your homework before you walk into the dealership. That means:

• know exactly what individual options and-or option package you want. See Toyota.com for the choices.
• know what color you want for the interior and exterior
• know the total MRSP sticker price and the dealers invoice cost including the individual options and package: go to Edmunds.com or KBB.com to look it up. Dealers invoice cost is important to know. It is also important to know this is not the true cost the dealer paid Toyota. They have several other forms of compensation. They may try to imply during negotiations that it is their cost setting your expectations that they won't sell below it and should sell above it in order to make money...not true. They have $ called hold back, administrative fees, and can get other incentives from Toyota. Hold back is often listed at edmunds.com and kbb.com. Administrative fee is the $ they tack on AFTER you agree to a price. On mine it was $195. In my opinion, it is nothing more than a way of increasing the price after you agree to buy. Best to know what it is before you agree to buy and try to get it eliminated or reduced just before you agree to buy.
• If you have a trade, know what trade-in price (not the private party or retail price) you should get. See edmunds.com, kbb.com again. Check Craigslist and local papers for current similar cars asking prices.
• Be prepared to buy when you go in, but also be prepared to walk away. Dealers will deal (and will pressure) someone they think is ready to buy, but won't negotiate as much with someone they think is just window shopping.
• Be better prepared to deal with the dealer...use Google to find what others have written on negotiating with car dealers.

Once you've done your homework, find more than one dealer you're prepared to visit. You do want to give the dealer the sense that you are prepared to buy, but do not be pressured into signing. The dealers will do their best to try to close the deal using whatever tactics they think will work with you. There are many ways to negotiate, but you will do best by having done your homework, being patient, refusing to be pressured, and also by being willing and ready to walk out, even over small stuff like $100 more off or some other aspect of the deal. Another negotiating rule: Avoid "setting the bar" meaning avoid telling them what price you will pay as long as possible. Keep getting them to "lower the bar" as long as possible. Once you set the bar you will not get below it and they likely will try to make you feel obligated to buy if they agree to it. If you do have to "set the bar" make sure it's below, maybe well below, what you think you should pay. Also know that if one dealer doesn't have the exact model you want, they can check inventory at other dealers and swap one of theirs to get it for you. You don't have to take whats on their lot and can buy what is on the lot at one dealer from another dealer. Finally be cautious about after the sale offers such as extended warranties and such, I'm skeptical that they're worth the $.

I could go on, but will stop here. Be glad to tell you more if you're interested. Feel free to ask any questions you may have.

<div class='quotetop'>QUOTE(alleyooptroop @ Dec 27 2006, 02:33 AM) [snapback]367084[/snapback]</div>

 

i worked with a broker from southern california and they were great to work with. after calling around to various dealers, and then talking to the broker, the broker came back the lowest price. some brokers don't have a broker fee either and make money from referral from the dealer.

 

I bought through a broker and had a great experience. The price was so low another broker told me it must be a trick, but the price I got was the price I paid out the door. He even offered to help me with the tax credit info or trying to get HOV stickers.