anyone upgrade their tires ?

Good plan, I have zero experience with that tire so all I can say is remember the ultimate answer to everything in the universe and see what happens.
EP20s on my 2011 and 2012 were perfect at 60K and the Touring tires on the 2016's seem to be good but only time will tell. You can never be completely sure about anything you are not completely sure about. Willie Wonka.

The MIJ/OEM GY Assurance fuel max wore fine on my old Prius but not on a 2009 Doge Caravan (tires were made in different countries so no way to tell if the MIJs would have been better).
Michelins on my 2009 Touring and 2009 Town and Country did not wear well and had poor MPG. I decided not to put OEMs on those since I was sure the Michelins were better. Ended up with GY fuel max on the 2009 right before I traded. Expensive mistake on my part but the tread looked awful on the Michelins and wanted my daughter to have good tires. Looked like front tractor tires. Deep tread but no cross pattern.

So bottom line is I am interested in how your tires do at 30, 40, and 50K. I figure you drive like me and use the same PSI as me so it should be a good check.

 

Yes, the Touring tires are almost double the price. But you hopefully won't be buying those very often if they turn out to be great tires. See you at 50K with the real world operational test results.

 

Might check tirerack for those results.

 

Did you get the Touring?

 

Trying to find those tires online. Anyone have a link?
Tirerack shows Bridgestone and Dunlap OEMs for the 2016. So how many different tires did they put on the non touring?

 

The NanoEnergy tires on my 2016 seem fine for good weather driving, but the tread is too smooth for ICE/Snow. I'll pick up a set of Nokian Wrg3 tires (also LRR) and some spare rims to use in the winter and then year around when the OE tires wear out.

JeffD

 

280 tread wear rating is a soft tire.

For better wear, but still decent grip, I suggest you get a tire with a 400 tread wear rating - any higher, and good traction begins to suffer (poor grip in the wet, and longer braking distances in general). Both those are not...economical. Any savings realized by purchasing a harder, longer wearing tire are instantly squandered when you rear-end someone, or hydro-plane/slide off the road into the guardrail...

That's a good example of why a harder, longer-wearing tire is not necessarily a more economical choice. Something to consider, and easily overlooked or rationalized, but can cause regrets later on.

Tire technology is advancing - the best LRR (Low rolling resistance) tires have much better traction today, than they offered just 5 years ago. Among other things, they are doing magic with the tire compound chemistry; multiple compounds are used in their construction, so that you get the good grip, but also don't absorb as much energy when flexing.

Here is an excellent, recent video explaining LRR tires (some is pretty technical; if your eyes are glazing over a bit when he explains his graphs, skip to 4:14 in the video to hear the Michelin Man explain some of the tech used). It's definitely worth watching, then you can better decide what to look for in a tire when shopping for these:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oV_6u4Z5p-c

I know it sounds like I'm a shill for expensive tires, or even for a specific brand, but I know tires, have worked in the industry, and have personally witnessed many issues and accidents that could have been avoided by simply using (and maintaining!) better tires.

Honestly, other than keeping your eyes open and on the road while driving, your tires are the biggest single factor that affect your safety on the road. What is your safety worth?

 

I bought 205 width Douglas Tires on sale at Walmart for $42 each about 20,000 miles ago. These tires are awesome!

 

Hah! too true!

I'm kinda waiting on warranty expiration before I open up this area. Or, until the car gets t-boned by one of the all too frequent red-light-runners that are becoming more and more common (knock on wood). Assuming I survive...I'll use the settlement to have the panels opened and the sound deadening installed by a pro. In my new replacement Gen 4, of course.