anyone with video link on how to open homelink or collision system?

Discussion in 'Gen 3 Prius Main Forum' started by ltlurker, Oct 1, 2018.

  1. ltlurker

    ltlurker Member

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    I'm trying to install a front dashcam and want to get in either homelink or collision system for power. The area feels every delicate so I don't want to brute force it off. Was wondering if anyone has exp or video link on how to open it? tx
     
  2. hill

    hill High Fiber Member

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    so, what's wrong with the OBD Port? There IS a 12v constant /in the modular connector.
    .
     
  3. ltlurker

    ltlurker Member

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    ODB port is a longer wire run. have to run it down the middle of windshield, down a pillar and then under the dash. the homelink and collision system housing is right there where I want the camera and should have a 12v feed
     
  4. Usle

    Usle Member

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    Why not the front overhead courtesy light?
     
  5. hill

    hill High Fiber Member

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    Because it's not a constant hot, & many dashcams are designed to detect collisions while car is stationary.
     
  6. Usle

    Usle Member

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    Ah, that's why I asked, it's hot when in "ready" only then?
     
  7. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    There is constant power in the dome light area. The trim at the rearview mirror just pulls off, get under the front edge of it. I had mine wired constant, but changed to hot in Ready only. I was trouble shooting an issue with camera not “loop recording” and found that I bought a memory card from the one manufacturer that their cards are “write only” not “rewrite capable”. I just never changed it back.
     
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  8. ltlurker

    ltlurker Member

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    yeah, i don't need constant power. just hot wire when power on should be sufficient. tx for the info about just being able to pry off the homelink/collision system covers. I don't want to break a tab or miss a screw.

    I'll be looking for a 12V line in the space mentioned above. questions on whether to use power from homelink or collision system? Think homelink is constant on while collision power should be just when the car is ready. I'm concerned tapping power from such an important system tho. Finally is there a 12V to 5V USB converter that people rec?
     
  9. Usle

    Usle Member

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    Exactly;)
     
  10. Leadfoot J. McCoalroller

    Leadfoot J. McCoalroller Senior Member

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    The one you test on your workbench for a few hours before installing. There's some real garbage coming up on amazon & ebay lately, and you don't want to mount it in an inaccessible space until you're sure it's not going to light on fire after an hour.

    Mind you there are good quality parts available on both sites too, but as far as I'm concerned it is completely random what you're going to get. Brand names and reviews have both become meaningless.
     
  11. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I disassembled a cigarette lighter plug and taped it up so the circuit board is protected. It’s been up there for 5 months and hasn’t caught fire yet. (Knock on wood).
     
  12. ltlurker

    ltlurker Member

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    that's a good idea. is the sig lighter 12v input? I've decided to use the dome/map light power since damaging the collision system's circuit is just soooooo much more costly if shiet hits the fan. question on how I'd know which power line is constant vs ready only?
     
  13. cnc97

    cnc97 Senior Member

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    I pulled my trim off. There is a red wire that has constant power up there. My homelink mirror(the previous owner added) is tied into that.
     
  14. ltlurker

    ltlurker Member

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    got my old GPS unit's sig lighter/usb connetor. knew that my hoarding would pay off one day . I'll need to open up the map light and find a wire that only turns on when the car is in ready state
     
  15. hill

    hill High Fiber Member

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    Our homelink will geo-position auto open/close the garage door - but occasionally as we pull away, we notice the Homelink fails to close the door. The auto manufacturer told us that because our dashcam's (cloud) wifi to cel signal transmits so close to the Homelink that it will occasionally it interfere. Similarly - we had to go with a Philips brand LED inside the garage door opener, because other LED brands (as well as ALL brands of CFL's) gave off a spurius RF - slightly different from the Philips brand, where they interfere with the Homelink transmission. Just a fyi ~
    .
     
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